It is very hard to escape the crowds in Cairo but 2 ways to do so and get a sense of space are to take a felluca ride on the Nile or spend a few hours in a mosque courtyard.

Any mosque

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OK, they gurgle and fart, but camels are lovely creatures. Honest. You’ll find them everywhere at the pyramids; in fact, their owners are so persistent you can’t possibly avoid them. Take a short spin or a day-long ride through the desert to Saqqara. Hold tight when it stands up or sits down.

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