Benha is a town about 50km from Cairo in the Nile River delta, far from the tourist trail. You get to see the Egypt where the real people live and most people here never see foreigners. On the way in the minibus you'll see the working class suburbs of Cairo, the fields that mark the start of the delta, farmers in their distinctive outfits and the wonder that is population growth.

Take the Metro to Koliet El-Zeraa station and then outside the station take a minibus to Benha.

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Egypt has 5,000 years of history but as far as the tourism industry is concerned, it all stopped several hundred years ago - which means that the average visitor misses a lot. The antidote to this is www.egy.com/ - a website which documents the 19th- and 20th-century history of Cairo through modern landmarks that stare you in the face but are seldom pointed out by guides or guidebooks.

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