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Just across the road from the bazaars and the coach-park at the Hatshepsut temple a jumble of mud-brick remains marks the cemetery of el-Asasif, site of some of the largest and most spectacular tombs anywhere in the country.

Three of its tombs are open to the public: that of Kheruef of the 18th Dynasty, and those of Pabasa and Ankh-hor of the 26th. Their subterranean ‘sun-courts’ are unique to this area, and each of the tombs preserves beautiful relief decoration of varying styles.

I would highly recommend taking a walk from here back to the road through the crumbling remains of tombs yet to be investigated; at the road I recommend hailing one of the local service taxis and riding back to the river with the locals for a few piasters, rather than taking a private car for 100 times the price.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16887 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16886
For those looking for archaeological adventures away from the hordes, I highly recommend making arrangements (in hotels or with taxi drivers) to join the daily convoy down-river (north) from Luxor to see Dendera and Abydos. The former is the site of one of Egypt’s best preserved monuments, the Ptolemaic and Roman temple of Dendera, with scenes of Cleopatra VII (the Cleopatra) and her son Ceasarion; at the latter the atmospheric temple of Sety I and his son Ramesses the Great features some of the most beautiful relief decoration anywhere in Egypt.

The drive is fairly lengthy but provides an excellent opportunity to see the Egyptian countryside.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16886 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11787 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11787 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11783
We enjoyed many a night here in February this year. Try the duck or kebabs. Tell them Caroline and Paul sent you, they assure us you will get a free drink!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11783 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11450
It is cheaper to book it yourself than through the travel agents in Luxor itself. The train leaves Luxor around 9pm and gets into Cairo at about 7am.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11450 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11176
The sunset concert mixed with the sound of the evening chorus of birds and the sight of fellucas sailing gracefully by is hard to beat. It's open to non-residents so just turn up and watch the sun go down with your partner.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11176 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10360 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10360 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9712 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9712 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9658
He challenged us to name where we came from and he would find somebody from the book, my home town is originally Stourbridge in the west midlands, not the largest of towns, I told him that’s where I came from and to my disbelief he pulled out a written reference form somebody in my hometown.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9658 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9503
The only thing to remember is that the cycle to the Valley of the Kings is tough as it will be uphill all the way, although the cycle back downhill was really really great fun. Be prepared for local kids having a good laugh at you as you cycle by.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9503 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9502
We visited a donkey and horse rescue centre and some of the injuries the animals receive are horrendous. It's worth visiting these centres as they provide free veterinary care for all animals and they rely on donations to survive.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/9502 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/8707 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/8707 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6860 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6860 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6467
Typical costs are £39 per person for a visit to the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepshut's temple and the Valley of the Queens. Included in this price are the ticket prices (approximately £9.50 per person).

To hire an air-conditioned minibus and a guide, and to visit temples and tombs that you wish to see, will cost at most 200LE (£20) for up to six people (total price), so adding the cost of the tickets, the trip will probably cost an individual in this situation about £12.

The other plus of this is that you can actually spend as long as you wish at a site, and not have to rush back to take in the obligatory visit to an alabaster or papyrus shop, for which the tour leader on the coach can make up to 50% of your purchase price in commission.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6467 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6346 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6346 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6323 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/6323 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5105
The impression you receive as a tourist is that your safety is of paramount importance and that no risks will be taken. This has naturally taken on even greater significance in the current international crisis. Now, at all the main sites there are greater numbers of police, although compared to some other countries their presence is by no means overbearing.

Within Luxor town itself it is perfectly safe for tourists to wander round, although it is unwise to linger in or around the town of Qena, considered to be a fundamentalist stronghold. For trips to other towns such as Hurghada or Aswan, tourists must now travel on specific police-escorted convoys. There are sometimes just two or three convoys per day, so if driving yourself make sure you know the departure times or you will be turned back at the first checkpoint.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5105 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5104
As a visitor you’ll regularly be approached for some form of business. For any service it’s prudent to settle the price beforehand and remember that baksheesh (a tip) is always expected.

Coming from a western country it can seem farcical to tip so much, but baksheesh is an intrinsic part of Egyptian life and should be honoured (within reason of course). For example, if taking a photo of people it is polite (and wise!) to offer baksheesh. This is after all, a poor region in a poor country: a fact that some visitors tend to forget.

Hence, although much of the locals’ amiability derives from securing more business, visitors will also be approached by people who genuinely want no more than to demonstrate Egyptian hospitality. It isn’t unusual to be invited to someone’s house for dinner or tea, which provides an insight into how local people live. However, discretion should always be exercised particularly for lone female travellers.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5104 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5103 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5103 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5102
Alternatively, there are plentiful taxis on the other side waiting to take you the remaining 3-4km to the sites. All tickets for the sites must be pre-purchased at ticket booths 1km inland. A general ticket for the Valley of Kings or Queens costs 55LE (approx. £5.50) and gives admission to three separate tombs, although Tutankhamen’s tomb will set you back a further 70LE.

As with many other attractions in Egypt, ISIC holders receive a 50% discount. A word of warning: don’t feel obliged to take an unofficial tour of a tomb by one of the wardens: they will expect and occasionally demand, a tip for the service.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5102