Now is the best time to go to southern Egypt – the weather is perfect and the locals will be particularly pleased to see you after a lean year. The Winter Palace’s grander rooms and elegant late 19th century façade overlook the Nile, and conceal from the bustle of the Corniche a lush and well tended garden. You can relax with a drink or a swim after a day exploring the sights, and watch the desert sun turn even the drabbest building to gold as the sound of the muezzin rises from mosques all around. For a romantic dinner, albeit without alcohol, go to the atmospheric Sofra , where delicious mezze are served on round brass tables under hand-blown glass chandeliers.

www.sofitel.com, H1661@sofitel.com, tel +20 95 238 0425

www.sofra.com.eg, Mohammed Farid St, tel +20 95 235 9752

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It's a Victorian era hotel, built by Thomas Cook in 1886, and has not been overly modernised. It was used by passengers of the flying boat era, though I don't know if they stopped overnight or just for lunch. Now it is just 'old school': extensive gardens, grand piano in the bar, peace and quiet. Best position on the Corniche. Timeless.
If you don't mind that Tony Blair had a suite there, its worth a couple of nights.

Corniche el Nile Street, Luxor
+20952380425
Hotel website shortened: bit.ly/dRizgG
Google map: bit.ly/k0kxZA

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This lovely little family-run hutted camp is a true oasis of calm on the West Bank - perfect for independent-minded souls who want to be close to all the monuments but avoid the brutal commercialism of the mainstream Luxor scene. Your money goes straight to the local economy, not tour companies, and you'll meet friendly local people who can help you arrange any trips and activities for a fraction of the price on the East Bank.

www.alsalamcamp.com or on Hostelworld.com

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A lovely hotel set on an island in the Nile, around 10 minutes from the centre of Luxor. The views are stunning - especially at sunset, unobstructed (no huge Nile cruise ships anchor there) - sit on your terrace with a cocktail and enjoy.

A welcome escape from the hustle (and hassle) of Luxor!

Crocodile Island, Luxor

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This colonial-era hotel in Aswan, about 80 miles south of Luxor, is famed for Agatha Christie's Death on the Nile. The glamour has faded but it remains a lovely retreat from the heat and hawkers where you can take scones and tea on a palm-fringed balcony.

Sofitel Old Cataract Hotel, Abtal El Tahrir Street, Aswan;
tel: 00 20 97 316000

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A very good, large mid-range, family-run palce. Staff are very helpful. Rooms are all en-suite and clean. Caters for mainly British and German package tourists.

Sharia Yusef Hassan

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A good budget option, centrally located. Rooms are basic but clean, friendly staff. Has a pleasant upstairs café. Can also arrange excursions.

Sharia Yusef Hassan

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