Great food (lentil soup is amazing!) and incredibly friendly staff. Ask to meet Nemo, the owner - he can also arrange all your trips for you and if you need any shopping done, he's your man! A visit to Luxor without a visit to Smileys simply wouldn't be right!

Passport Street, Opposite Nile Palace Hotel

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Great food at resonable prices. Staff are friendly and have a sense of humour, and the whole place is spotless. Ask for Captain Nemo - he can fix anything from boat rides to balloon trips and airport transfers. If he can't do it he knows someone who can, he knows everyone.

Opposite the Nile Palace is Passport Street, next door to Murphys Bar.

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Great rugs, provided you actually get to go home with the one you 'bought'. Be very careful that the one you agree to buy is not switched for another, half-finished reject. If the merchant wants to take your rug out of your sight, don’t agree and don’t let him bind it all up with twine either. Do your deal and take your rug – don’t have it pulled out from under you.

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