- Tallinn
- (24)
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Estonia
The Go Hotel Shnelli is a modern hotel right next to the train station - with good views of the medieval town from the rooms. All rooms are reasonably priced.
Go Hotel Shnelli
Toompuiestee 37
10133 Tallinn, ESTONIA
www.gohotels.ee
There is more to Estonia than Tallinn. It is possible to do a canoe trip from the mainland to a group of stunning and relatively unknown islands which lie just off the coast.
This trip does not involve any previous experience of boating and takes you to some magnificent bays as well as to a couple of former fishermen's villages.
As chilled as its name suggests, the Ice Bar is a fusion of old and new - blue lights looking like blocks of ice, silver cushions flecked with black, comfy low sofas ideal for slouching on (beware leaning back, they are further from the wall than you think) combined with a wooden beamed ceiling decorated with painted leaf designs and a stained glass window on one wall. It sounds and is rather eclectic but the fusion works. The beams and stained glass are, I believe, original features of the building and they have been blended well with the contemporary design of the bar.
Ice is, of course, another feature, spread over the surface of the bar and made into shot glasses which are used for serving vodka. Glasses of ice? Yep and they do work and they don’t stick to your fingers. Cool.
Dunkri 6
Part of the Merchants House Hotel
www.icebar.ee
This comfortable hotel is situated only a few steps away from the Old Town Hall Square in Tallinn. Made from two houses linked together, it is a pleasant warren of twisting corridors, staircases, unusually shaped rooms and what appears to be a number of original features such as wooden beams and painted frescos. There is also a lovely courtyard off which some of the rooms lead.
The fixtures and decor are a mixture of contemporary, such as the wonderful rectangular sink in the bathroom, and classic, there are some very attractive Chinese and Asian style cabinets and chests in the corridors. The room we were in was long and quite narrow but still spacious and decorated in muted gold and brown giving it a pleasingly relaxed atmosphere. This was also aided by the bed which was provoked a pleasing "Oooooh" as we rested our tired limbs on it.
Breakfast, which was served in either the cellar restaurant or the upstairs coffee room, depending on the number of visitors, was very good and consisted of a wide range of hot and cold food sometimes in a buffet format and sometimes cooked to order.
Body and beauty treatments are available and, best of all, the sauna is free to guests. A good way to warm up (a lot) and relax after a day of sightseeing in the city.
The staff were friendly and efficient and the service we received always excellent.
My one minor criticism of the hotel is that I would have liked a hotel manual/services guide in the room. There is an excellent one on the website and this service was advertised as being on the interactive TV in the room but ours, sadly, didn't seem to be. It is a very minor criticism, however, and I dare say had we asked for more information or mentioned that the service channel on the TV wasn't working it would have been dealt with.
All in all this is a great hotel, very reasonably priced for the standard of service (200 Euro/136 GB sterling/251 USD for a standard room plus breakfast and taxes during summer) and a perfect base from which to enjoy the fascinating city of Tallinn.
Dunkri 4/6 Tallinn, Estonia
www.merchantshousehotel.com
Fun, modern nightclub that gives further insight and appreciation of amazing Eesti culture. Dancers, big couches, nice bar and the music is great. May need to get on the guest list to pass the doormen.
Harju Str. 6
Tallinn
Estonia
A beautiful courtyard in the Old Town housing several artisans' shops and a small cafe/chocolaterie. Go there if you feel tired of hustle and bustle of the usual tourist routes and would like to view and buy truly unique stuff made from wood, glass, etc.
Vene street, 6
The Starbucks of the Baltics, this cafe is so much more. For those travelling on a shoe string this place provides great tasting food for very little money. The coffee itself comes in every form, either the typical black coffee or even turkish coffee. The milkshakes are great and they even give you the pot in which it was made so you end up with a double portion. Great for the greedy tourist.
For people who dare to leave the main tourist areas, this cafe is at least a comforting landmark to regain your bearings, and if you can't find a place to eat, a guaranteed bargain.
The permanent exhibits are split into two groups, Estonian art from the 18th century until the end of World War II and Estonian Art from 1945 to 1991, the restoration of Estonia's Independence. Temporary Contemporary Art Exhibitions will represent the years after 1991.
A multitude of different styles and themes are represented, Romanticism and Expressionism in the 19th century/early 20th century, Nordic influences and explorations of National identity. There are some wonderful grotesque yet compelling works by a graphic artist, Eduard Wiiralt and examples of avant garde, modernism and pop art.
The post-World War II galleries are particularly interesting in showing how art and the artistic community in Estonia were effected by and reflected the Soviet era, from propaganda and reportage to being a tool of protest and disapproval.
As with many wide ranging exhibitions not everything will be to everyone's taste, however, it allows the viewer to see how art in Estonia has developed and been influenced and also provides a fascinating insight into the history of the country as seen through the eyes of its artists.
Weizenbergi 34
Take tram 3 to Kadriorg then a 10 minute or less walk
www.ekm.ee
Just a few steps away from the Town Hall square is the Beer House, Tallinn’s only microbrewery.
The bricked walled beer hall is large and quite cavernous, a little like a converted warehouse, but doesn't feel empty, its stone floors filled with wooden tables which, in turn, fill up with people sampling the beer and food that is on offer.
A lot of effort has gone into creating a convivial, bier Keller atmosphere, from the helpful costumed waiting staff to the toe-tapping, thigh-slapping music. Although the latter is something of an acquired taste and there were a few moments of surrealness when we realised we were listening to an oompah band rendition of "Viva Espania" followed by "Roll Out the Barrel".
The home produced beer is excellent and comes in three varieties, a light golden easy to drink Pilsner, a wheaty Marzen Spezial and the thicker, dark Dunkles. What makes the beer particularly good, however, is that it is un-pasteurised and has none of the slightly chemical aftertaste you can get with other commercially produced beers and lagers.
The Beer House also serves a good range of simple but filling food such as chicken wings, herrings and big lumps of roast meat.
Lunchtimes are quieter, it's a good place to stop for a beer and a light-ish snack, evenings busier and more lively.
Dunkri 5
www.beerhouse.ee
I highly recommend doing a bicycle tour. We went in April and had the guide to ourselves. It was great to get an overview of the city and the coast. Very easy cycling and the guide was fantastic.
The tour operates out of a new hostel, based in the Old Town;
City Bike tel: 511 18 19;
email: mail@citybike.ee;
www.citybike.ee
The heart of Tallinn's Old Town is the Raekoja plats, or Old Town Square. Surrounded by elegant pastel hued buildings and the creamy limestone facade of the Town Hall, the square has been used as a marketplace, meeting place and also a place of execution.
It is still somewhere to meet up, perhaps in one of the restaurants that overlook it or, during the warmer months, one of the outdoor cafes that are set up on its cobblestones. There is also a reminder of its commercial past with handicraft stalls during summer and its Christmas Market. Indeed you get the sense that this is not a square that has been frozen in aspic - beautiful but untouchable - but a place that is still much in use by locals and visitors alike. There is also an intimate feel about the square, but without it seeming small, and an openness about it without it feeling bare and exposed.
As an introduction to Tallinn's Old Town you can't do worse, and as a place to visit in and for itself you can't do worse either.
Raekoja plats
In a lovely cellar entered from Raekoja plats is Troika, one of Tallinn's Russian restaurants.
The setting is great, like a recreation of an Imperial Russian dining room, and the service excellent. The menu runs through Russian staples such as blinis, dumplings, stroganoff and pancakes. There is a good selection of fish and vegetarian options and, for meat lovers, plenty of choice, including bear! And as an accompaniment? What else but vodka! Though there are plenty of other alcoholic and non-alcoholic options for those who want a clearer head the next morning!
It's a lively, popular and busy place, underscored when we were there by live Russian folk music, so booking is advisable.
One word of warning though, it is not an overly expensive restaurant (we paid about £55.00, £60.00 with a tip, for both of us and there was more than we could really eat, even with trying) and indeed very good value for the quality of both the food and the whole experience, however, it is easy to rack up the price. For instance, as we sat down and before we were given the menu we were asked if we wanted to start our meal in true Russian style with vodka, pickles, honey and sour cream. Who could say no! It was a fantastic way to open the meal, and the evening, but was also one of the most expensive items on our bill and as we hadn't seen a menu at that point we weren't aware of how much it cost. Now we would probably have still gone ahead and ordered this anyway, it was fun to see the vodka being poured from a height of two or three feet into the glasses and the combination of all the tastes was great, but for anyone on a budget or watching what they spend the cost may have come as a nasty shock.
That is only a minor criticism, however, as we had such a good evening at Troika, excellent food, excellent atmosphere and great fun. And I didn't even mind the vodka hangover the next day!
Raekoja plats 15;
tel: 372 627 6245;
www.troika.ee
The view from the tower - don't miss it.
Built by Tsar Peter I as an imperial summer residence. From 1929 the palace has served as the residence of the Estonian head of state.
Weizenbergi Street. From the city centre, you can take tram No 1; www.ekm.ee/english/kadriorg
A medieval-themed restaurant serving all types of medieval dishes and honey beer. All staff wear servants’ clothing and lighting is provided by candles on the tables.
Vana turg 1, near the Old Square; www.oldehansa.com
Trendy design store selling linen and fabrics. Quite a large colour scale to choose from. If you like your table linen simple and not too ornate this place is highly recommended. Reasonable prices.
Monday - Saturday 10-18
Sunday 10-16
Vene 12 and Suur-Karja 2
A shop selling fantastic handpainted porcelain, designed by Helina Tilk. There are several different funky themes with cats, dogs, horses, cows going on the plates, cups, mugs, dishes etc. I would loved to have everything in this shop.
Open daily :09:00-18:00
except:
Saturday: 10:00-17:00
Sunday: 10:00-15:00
Rataskaevu 6. Also at Lühike jalg 5
A hilarious walking tour of the Old Town. If you're lucky you will get the guide who took us on a leisurely stroll, stopping off to play us his djembe drum in the park, and to buy some sandwiches. He didn't try to tell us too much, giving us a chance to meet the others on the tour.
Get tickets from the tourist info tent - meets there at 4pm. Corner of Harju and Niguliste Street;
tel: +372 5814 0442;
email: tallinn@traveller.ee;
www.tourism.tallinn.ee/fpage/explore/sightseeing
The tower's wonderful name Kiek in de Kok means, in Low German, "peep into the kitchen". Apparently soldiers in the tower used to be able to see into the kitchens of houses below it, hence the name.
The 118 ft (36 m) cannon tower was originally built in the 15th century as part of the city's defences. Its solid 13 ft thick stone walls proved invaluable during the siege of 1577 when Russian soldiers blasted a huge hole in the tower but could still not penetrate it or the city.
Now the tower contains an interesting museum relating to the defences of Tallinn and the various wars and sieges that the city, and tower, has witnessed. Exhibits include two cannons, which, like the tower, have great monikers "The Lion" and "Bitter Death". Along side these are some of the paraphernalia, such as a long loading stick, needed to work the cannons and quite in-depth descriptions of how cannons were loaded, fired and used. Indeed there is quite a lot of historical information given throughout the exhibition that can be a little overwhelming as you try to remember dates, wars, allies and enemies however, rather that than little or no information.
There is also a shiver-inducing representation of the Plague Doctor, all in black with a beaked hood - the beak was filled with medicinal herbs to try and ward off infection - and a stick for prodding and pointing.
On the top floor, where seagulls and pigeons perch in the windows, are some fantastic views of the city and beyond. It's easy to imagine the soldiers sitting up there trying to keep warm by the fire with just the birds for company.
Komandandi 2
A short walk from Alexander Nevsky Cathedral or Freedom Square.
Open: Tue-Fri 10am-6pm, Sat-Sun 11am-4.30pm closed Monday
A short walk from Kadriorg Palace, where Estonia's Foreign Art Collection is based, is KUMU (standing for Kunsti Muuseum - Art Museum), home to Estonia's National Collection.
The building, designed by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori, is almost a work of art in itself. The modern design blends in well with its surroundings and does not seem out of place in an area that includes a number of older, more traditional buildings. The building seems to spring naturally from the ground, there is a very organic feel to it and looking at pictures of the design it appears as if care has been taken to integrate the building materials i.e. glass/concrete etc.. with the physical elements of the land around it. I would have liked to pursue this further by walking around the outside of the building but, sadly, the snow -beautiful as it was - made this impossible.
Inside the building reminded me, at times, of the Tate Modern in London with walkways looking over open spaces and a central hall from which the galleries led off. I liked the curving walkways and staircases, mirroring the curve of the building, the sense of space and also, particularly in the galleries, the sense of airiness.
The museum also includes an education centre and while we were there a number of groups of children were also being guided round. Looking for certain details in a picture, sitting discussing an exhibit, basically getting involved with art and communication.
The museum brochure indicates that it wishes to create a "congenial atmosphere" in which to show art, that it wishes to appeal to a wide range of people, whose interest in art spans from well versed to nascent. And that it can be a place where "diverse ideas emerge and develop". They certainly seem to have achieved the first, are doing all they can to promote the second and, I hope, will progress and expand the third.
Weizenbergi 34
Take tram 3 to Kadriorg then a 10 minutes or less walk
www.ekm.ee
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