The permanent exhibits are split into two groups, Estonian art from the 18th century until the end of World War II and Estonian Art from 1945 to 1991, the restoration of Estonia's Independence. Temporary Contemporary Art Exhibitions will represent the years after 1991.

A multitude of different styles and themes are represented, Romanticism and Expressionism in the 19th century/early 20th century, Nordic influences and explorations of National identity. There are some wonderful grotesque yet compelling works by a graphic artist, Eduard Wiiralt and examples of avant garde, modernism and pop art.

The post-World War II galleries are particularly interesting in showing how art and the artistic community in Estonia were effected by and reflected the Soviet era, from propaganda and reportage to being a tool of protest and disapproval.

As with many wide ranging exhibitions not everything will be to everyone's taste, however, it allows the viewer to see how art in Estonia has developed and been influenced and also provides a fascinating insight into the history of the country as seen through the eyes of its artists.

Weizenbergi 34
Take tram 3 to Kadriorg then a 10 minute or less walk
www.ekm.ee

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A short walk from Kadriorg Palace, where Estonia's Foreign Art Collection is based, is KUMU (standing for Kunsti Muuseum - Art Museum), home to Estonia's National Collection.

The building, designed by Finnish architect Pekka Vapaavuori, is almost a work of art in itself. The modern design blends in well with its surroundings and does not seem out of place in an area that includes a number of older, more traditional buildings. The building seems to spring naturally from the ground, there is a very organic feel to it and looking at pictures of the design it appears as if care has been taken to integrate the building materials i.e. glass/concrete etc.. with the physical elements of the land around it. I would have liked to pursue this further by walking around the outside of the building but, sadly, the snow -beautiful as it was - made this impossible.

Inside the building reminded me, at times, of the Tate Modern in London with walkways looking over open spaces and a central hall from which the galleries led off. I liked the curving walkways and staircases, mirroring the curve of the building, the sense of space and also, particularly in the galleries, the sense of airiness.

The museum also includes an education centre and while we were there a number of groups of children were also being guided round. Looking for certain details in a picture, sitting discussing an exhibit, basically getting involved with art and communication.

The museum brochure indicates that it wishes to create a "congenial atmosphere" in which to show art, that it wishes to appeal to a wide range of people, whose interest in art spans from well versed to nascent. And that it can be a place where "diverse ideas emerge and develop". They certainly seem to have achieved the first, are doing all they can to promote the second and, I hope, will progress and expand the third.

Weizenbergi 34
Take tram 3 to Kadriorg then a 10 minutes or less walk
www.ekm.ee

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Built by Peter the Great for his wife Catherine, this palace provides an opulent backdrop to much of Estonia’s foreign art collection.

The galleries contain paintings, prints and sculpture by mainly Flemish, Dutch and Russians artists of the 16th -19th century and include works by Breughel the Younger and Cranach. There are some excellent portraits by Anton Graff and an interesting room dedicated to 19th century views of Tallinn. As the information plaques explained these were produced almost as equivalents to today’s postcards, souvenirs for the more well-heeled visitor.

Also impressive are the Russian realist pictures - such as "A Soldier’s Tale" by Ilja Repin and Ivor Shisnkin's "The Pine Forest" - which have a very earthy, tactile feel to them.

There was also a small but interesting temporary exhibition about copies of masterpieces - not fakes but copies made, again, as a kind of souvenir or as a tribute to the original artist, or as practise for an apprentice painter.

Information plaques, in Estonian and English, are found in each room and the exhibits themselves are well labelled.

The Palace is open 10.00am-5.00pm closed Mondays May-September and both Monday and Tuesday October-April.

Weizenbergi 37/Valge 1;
Take Tram No. 3 to Kadriog, then it is a short and rather pleasant walk;
www.ekm.ee/kadriorg

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