As chilled as its name suggests, the Ice Bar is a fusion of old and new - blue lights looking like blocks of ice, silver cushions flecked with black, comfy low sofas ideal for slouching on (beware leaning back, they are further from the wall than you think) combined with a wooden beamed ceiling decorated with painted leaf designs and a stained glass window on one wall. It sounds and is rather eclectic but the fusion works. The beams and stained glass are, I believe, original features of the building and they have been blended well with the contemporary design of the bar.

Ice is, of course, another feature, spread over the surface of the bar and made into shot glasses which are used for serving vodka. Glasses of ice? Yep and they do work and they don’t stick to your fingers. Cool.

Dunkri 6
Part of the Merchants House Hotel
www.icebar.ee

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Just a few steps away from the Town Hall square is the Beer House, Tallinn’s only microbrewery.

The bricked walled beer hall is large and quite cavernous, a little like a converted warehouse, but doesn't feel empty, its stone floors filled with wooden tables which, in turn, fill up with people sampling the beer and food that is on offer.

A lot of effort has gone into creating a convivial, bier Keller atmosphere, from the helpful costumed waiting staff to the toe-tapping, thigh-slapping music. Although the latter is something of an acquired taste and there were a few moments of surrealness when we realised we were listening to an oompah band rendition of "Viva Espania" followed by "Roll Out the Barrel".

The home produced beer is excellent and comes in three varieties, a light golden easy to drink Pilsner, a wheaty Marzen Spezial and the thicker, dark Dunkles. What makes the beer particularly good, however, is that it is un-pasteurised and has none of the slightly chemical aftertaste you can get with other commercially produced beers and lagers.

The Beer House also serves a good range of simple but filling food such as chicken wings, herrings and big lumps of roast meat.

Lunchtimes are quieter, it's a good place to stop for a beer and a light-ish snack, evenings busier and more lively.

Dunkri 5
www.beerhouse.ee

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There is a danger that in describing somewhere as a "garlic restaurant" it is made to sound rather gimmicky and that somehow the gimmick will surpass the cooking. Nothing, however, could be further from the truth with Balthasar, Tallinn's garlic restaurant.

Firstly the setting is fantastic, the restaurant is situated on the first floor above Raeapteek with lovely views over the square and towards the town hall. It is rather like being in a country manor dining room, wooden beams and floor, ornate chairs, fresh white linen, subdued and subtle lighting. There were very few people in the restaurant when we visited, reflective of it being a freezing Sunday night in winter rather than the standard of the restaurant, so the atmosphere was quiet and intimate. Service too was very good, attentive and helpful but without being overbearing.

As to the food, which reflects an international cuisine, it was excellent. On the menu each dish is given a bulb rating - 3 or above and you better not have any vampire blood in you! There is a good selection of starters, soup, meat and fish dishes plus a vegetarian option. You can also order garlic side dishes including the wonderful "garlic assortment", a pile of cloves in 4 different marinades, pesto, chilli, vinegar and spice. Also, don't leave before trying the garlic ice cream, which comes in a crisp almond basket and chocolate sauce. Like the creamiest ice cream you've ever had but with a hint of sweet garlic - sounds strange, tastes delicious.

Raekoja plats 11;
tel: 372 50 29 077;
www.balthasar.ee

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