The root of the kava plant is the root of Fijian culture. When ground up and steeped in water the resulting muddy mixture known as yaqona serves as the foundation for social life in Fiji. A complicated series of ancient traditions surrounds the drinking of the grog and the wooden kava bowl is so fundamental that the Parliament has a ceremonial bowl around which members meet. Business deals are cemented with yaqona, as are social events.

The bitter root has mild drug-like qualities. Numbing of the tongue, dizziness and nausea are side-effects while a lethargic buzz is the primary sensation.

It is important to take small bundles of the root as gifts when visiting Fijians. You can buy yaqona at the Municipal Market in Suva or try a bowl at one of the yaqona saloons nearby. The taste takes getting used to, to say the least.

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You haven’t been to Suva unless you’ve been to Lucky Eddie’s bar. It also goes under the name Urban Jungle and it is a time-honoured institution. A throbbing, sultry nightclub populated by the multi-ethnic Suvan crowd, it offers insight into the soul of the city, not to mention live music or DJs that do what they can to egg the dance-happy crowd on.

On Victoria Parade, across from the old Town Hall.

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