Independent and personal travel guide from a design firm. It includes Insider Tips from a Helsinki native, recommendations, pics and links.

www.madeinearnest.com/Helsinki.shtml

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The hostels get very, very busy during the summer months and it is certainly advisable to book as early as possible in order to get a cheap bed.

Also, be aware that if you have not warned the hostel that you will be making a late check-in (and by late check-in, they mean any time after 6pm) your reservation may be cancelled and given to another person. So if there's any chance of delay, send an email or call in advance of your arrival.

(The alternative is, if you missed out on point one, to hang around hostel receptions at about 6pm to see if they are yet ready to make some cancellations).

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The 'Church in the Rock' is the most striking piece of religious architecture in Helsinki.

The chuch was hewn from a huge chunk of granite, the walls left as jagged bedrock, into which a concrete altar was poured. The copper roof seems to float above the church as the light come from a circular window on to which the roof sits. A proper 'wow' moment.

Lutherinkatu 3, Helsinki

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The place from where the Five Corners Quintet get their name and THE area in Helsinki to buy music. Vinyl and jazz included but you can get anything from Sibelius to Carl Craig.

Three great shops for any digger: Eronen, LifeSaver and Digelius.

Laivurinrinne, 00120 HELSINKI
www.dubjazzsalsa.com
www.lifesaver.net
www.digelius.com

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Helsinki is full of design. It is everywhere and there is even a 'Design District' - an area of 20 odd streets and incorporating 150 shops that caters for everything; interiors, clothing, art, antiques, restaurants, galleries, museums and more.

Every participating store has a free Design District map which details every other store involved and what they specialise in. A great idea.

www.designdistrict.fi/design_district

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Walking distance from the city centre, Hietaranta is sheltered by the city, with perfectly clean water and is so shallow as to be very child friendly.

A must see in the summer and also in the winter when the sea freezes (supposedly). We spent a great afternoon there in mid August with only about 30 other people. A real highlight.

Hiekkarannantie, 00100 Helsinki

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This is a very bizarre restaurant - in some ways very Finnish, but somewhat cringeworthy to a local like me.

The decor resembles a Finnish countryside bar from the olden days and so does the clientele (this is the cringe bit).

You can have your drink under a massive plastic cow's udders or even sitting in an old Zetor tractor. However, this is only the bar.

The restaurant, on the other hand, is in a different class altogether. The food is very Finnish and very tasty - the menu is available online.

I took two British friends here and at least they seemed to love it - as a funky experience more than a would-be favourite bar, but anyway.

Zetor Restaurant
Kaivopiha, Mannerheimintie 3-5, 00100 Helsinki
Phone: +358 9 666 966
Fax: +358 9 624 781
E-mail: zetor@sok.fi
www.ravintolazetor.fi/eng

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This is a combined bar, cafe/deli, restaurant and club with an excellent location on the Esplanade. The punters can sometimes be a bit bland (office girls and suits on the prowl) but the food is good and the Kellobaari at the back is pretty cool.

Teatteri, Pohjoisesplanadi, Helsinki;
www.royalravintolat.com/teatteri/index_eng.asp

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Small funky bar with a good atmosphere. The clientele seems to be mostly students and media types.

Erottaja Baari, Erottajankatu 15 (near the junction of Mannerheimintie and Bulevardi), Helsinki

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This casual place has a brilliant location right on the Esplanade. Downstairs is a self-service cafe; upstairs, the comfortable library bar and a restaurant serving Scandinavian/Continental food.

Strindberg
Pohjoisesplanadi, Helsinki
www.royalravintolat.com/strindberg/index_eng.asp

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Named after the former patriotic Finnish president, U Kaleva is a bar my friend and I stumbled upon on our first trip to Helsinki. Melancholy strains of Finnish tango drew us in off the chilly street; the babble of laughter and strange consonants sucking us into a steaming crush which hushed as we entered. They were all regulars.

A girl wearing a "Mean people SUCK" badge eyed us up, and I wondered out loud what the red drink was they were all sipping."I don't know the name in English," she replied, after quick consulation of her card-playing chums. "Just ask the barman for the red drink everyone is drinking." The ice in the vodka and cloudberry juice began to melt as we squeezed our way through the throng.

Lots of folk were wearing leather and there were men in make-up. A boxer on a barstool asked me how we'd found this place for Finnish intellectuals before quizzing me on Dostoyesvsky. A blonde ice-maiden asked my friend "Why have you come to Finland? We are such uncomfortable people." Contrary to popular opinion, the Finns are anything but reticent, as we discussed poetry, Arsenal's performance that day, the unmerited prevalence of the Swedish language and the prevailing merits of a range of strange vodkas (including liquorice).

Many Scandinavian shots later we joined in a game of dancing to Suomi humppa around the bar and hugging new-found Lapp friends before rolling off like snowflakes into the Helsinki night.

U Kaleva
Kalevantaku 3
00100 Helsinki
(09) 680 1372
www.ukaleva.net

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A very chic, if slightly touristy, bar which offers unbeatable views of Helsinki. The drinks are fairly expensive but the ambience makes up for this.
Visit the toilets!

On the top floor of Hotel Torni

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Old-school public transport - and mainly a cheap and enjoyable way to get a handle on the city, a circuit that takes in a lot of the main sights such as the art gallery and central squares.

Stops all round the centre - outside Kiasma gallery or Kauppatori (Market Square)

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Raku Ya is a great little Japanese restaurant located on the sea front a stone's throw from the main market. Classic Finnish design sensibilties afford this place an authentic Japanese feel and the marriage of fresh Finnish fish with Japanese presentation is as good as any Japanese restaurant you will find in London.

I tried grilled eel, scallop sashimi and beef tataki and all were excellent. There is a decent wine and sake list as well as the usual selection of Japanese beers. Service was good and all staff speak English.

There are several private booths, an upstairs "party room" and a further 20 or so covers. While not cheap, a bill for 2 came in good value at €60.

Address: Eteläranta 14, 00130 Helsinki
Tel: 00358 (0)9 675 449
E-mail: rakuya@kolumbus.fi
www.ravintolaopas.net/rakuya

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A good way to get to Tallinn or Stockholm - much greener than flying. Lots of services, and all ferry terminals are walking distance to city centre accommodation. However, you should book a cabin if doing the overnight ferry trip to Stockholm, as the bars, cafes and clubs are terrible, and there is nowhere quiet for you to sleep in a chair.

Viking Line Terminal;
www.vikingline.fi/index.asp?lang=en

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If you visit the Olympic Stadium (the venue for the '52 Games) then ask the reception/security person if you can see the seating area.

He should then let you go through into the stadium itself and you can wonder around and see the track firsthand.

Olympic Stadium

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The public libraries in Helsinki offer free internet usage (asking that users only stay on for a maximum of 30 minutes).

It is possible to find free net consoles in some shopping centres. But the keyboard and interface is fiddly and a pain if you have to stand the whole time!

Various libraries in the capital

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Myymala2 is a shop and a gallery, run by two guys. The gallery showcases work by young designers and artists, always fresh and fun. The shop has a very wide selection of small gifts and more expensive items such as non-sweatshop streetwear and the odd T-shirt with an original print.

Well worth a visit while in the area.

Not that easy to find as it is below street level and (last time I was there) is indicated only by a blackboard and chalk sign.
Uudenmaankatu 23 / 00100 HKI
www.myymala2.com
Opens:
WED-FRI 13-19h
SAT-SUN 12-18h

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Liike is a tiny shop selling odd-bod fashion, mostly by young Finnish designers.

Liike, Yrjonkatu (opp. Torni hotel), Helsinki

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If you live in Finland, this brand must be overexposed but for the foreigner it still looks bright and funky. A great range of clothes, accessories and homeware. The best stuff harks back to bold 1960s prints but it also does a line of sober businesswear for women. It's not cheap but then it seems to be mostly manufactured in Finland rather than a far eastern sweatshop and the quality and durability are excellent. There's a factory outlet in Herttoniemi (on the metro line), where the prices are a bit less shocking.

Marimekko, Pohjoisesplanadi, Helsinki (and branches);
www.marimekko.fi/eng

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