The hostels get very, very busy during the summer months and it is certainly advisable to book as early as possible in order to get a cheap bed.

Also, be aware that if you have not warned the hostel that you will be making a late check-in (and by late check-in, they mean any time after 6pm) your reservation may be cancelled and given to another person. So if there's any chance of delay, send an email or call in advance of your arrival.

(The alternative is, if you missed out on point one, to hang around hostel receptions at about 6pm to see if they are yet ready to make some cancellations).

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This is a combined bar, cafe/deli, restaurant and club with an excellent location on the Esplanade. The punters can sometimes be a bit bland (office girls and suits on the prowl) but the food is good and the Kellobaari at the back is pretty cool.

Teatteri, Pohjoisesplanadi, Helsinki;
www.royalravintolat.com/teatteri/index_eng.asp

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Small funky bar with a good atmosphere. The clientele seems to be mostly students and media types.

Erottaja Baari, Erottajankatu 15 (near the junction of Mannerheimintie and Bulevardi), Helsinki

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This casual place has a brilliant location right on the Esplanade. Downstairs is a self-service cafe; upstairs, the comfortable library bar and a restaurant serving Scandinavian/Continental food.

Strindberg
Pohjoisesplanadi, Helsinki
www.royalravintolat.com/strindberg/index_eng.asp

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Named after the former patriotic Finnish president, U Kaleva is a bar my friend and I stumbled upon on our first trip to Helsinki. Melancholy strains of Finnish tango drew us in off the chilly street; the babble of laughter and strange consonants sucking us into a steaming crush which hushed as we entered. They were all regulars.

A girl wearing a "Mean people SUCK" badge eyed us up, and I wondered out loud what the red drink was they were all sipping."I don't know the name in English," she replied, after quick consulation of her card-playing chums. "Just ask the barman for the red drink everyone is drinking." The ice in the vodka and cloudberry juice began to melt as we squeezed our way through the throng.

Lots of folk were wearing leather and there were men in make-up. A boxer on a barstool asked me how we'd found this place for Finnish intellectuals before quizzing me on Dostoyesvsky. A blonde ice-maiden asked my friend "Why have you come to Finland? We are such uncomfortable people." Contrary to popular opinion, the Finns are anything but reticent, as we discussed poetry, Arsenal's performance that day, the unmerited prevalence of the Swedish language and the prevailing merits of a range of strange vodkas (including liquorice).

Many Scandinavian shots later we joined in a game of dancing to Suomi humppa around the bar and hugging new-found Lapp friends before rolling off like snowflakes into the Helsinki night.

U Kaleva
Kalevantaku 3
00100 Helsinki
(09) 680 1372
www.ukaleva.net

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A very chic, if slightly touristy, bar which offers unbeatable views of Helsinki. The drinks are fairly expensive but the ambience makes up for this.
Visit the toilets!

On the top floor of Hotel Torni

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