Old-school public transport - and mainly a cheap and enjoyable way to get a handle on the city, a circuit that takes in a lot of the main sights such as the art gallery and central squares.
Stops all round the centre - outside Kiasma gallery or Kauppatori (Market Square)
Suomenlinna is a major monument of military architecture. The construction of the sea fortress on the islands just off Helsinki began in the middle of the 18th century. When it was complete, its military shipyard was one of the biggest dry docks in the world and centres of know-how at that time. It was a military base until 1973 when it was turned over the public. Only accessible by ferry, it is now a living museum and about 1,000 people live on the islands.
The 'Church in the Rock' is the most striking piece of religious architecture in Helsinki.
The chuch was hewn from a huge chunk of granite, the walls left as jagged bedrock, into which a concrete altar was poured. The copper roof seems to float above the church as the light come from a circular window on to which the roof sits. A proper 'wow' moment.
Lutherinkatu 3, Helsinki
Walking distance from the city centre, Hietaranta is sheltered by the city, with perfectly clean water and is so shallow as to be very child friendly.
A must see in the summer and also in the winter when the sea freezes (supposedly). We spent a great afternoon there in mid August with only about 30 other people. A real highlight.
Hiekkarannantie, 00100 Helsinki
Old Market Hall, situated along the South Harbour and Market Square, has been selling Finnish delicacies to locals and tourists for over 120 years. It’s a well-known place for meeting up with friends over a cup of coffee and cinnamon buns before shopping for berries, wild mushrooms, game, sea food and freshwater fish. Try fried reindeer slices with potato mash and lingonberry sauce followed by oven cheese with Arctic cloudberries and cream. Alternatively, taste Karelian pasties, made from thin boat-shaped rye crusts filled with savoury rice pudding. Most importantly: don’t forget to buy those all important sausages and beer for the evening of sauna, skinny-dipping and barbecue!
Wanha Kauppahalli, Eteläranta, 00130 Helsinki
+358 9 636177
Open 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Saturday
Google map: bit.ly/fvFoj7
I stayed at the GLO in July 2007. I went to Helsinki with my husband for a wedding and most of our friends stayed at the Palace Kamp but we decided to stay at its sister hotel, the GLO. It’s next door to the Palace Kamp so probably the best location in Helsinki. Unlike the Palace Kamp, GLO is a modern hotel and we really liked the room: big room, brand new, very stylish and modern for an extremely reasonable price. Breakfast was also included - a big buffet with plenty of food. There’s a Spanish restaurant in the hotel where you can enjoy tapas.
Helsinki is full of design. It is everywhere and there is even a 'Design District' - an area of 20 odd streets and incorporating 150 shops that caters for everything; interiors, clothing, art, antiques, restaurants, galleries, museums and more.
Every participating store has a free Design District map which details every other store involved and what they specialise in. A great idea.
A good way to get to Tallinn or Stockholm - much greener than flying. Lots of services, and all ferry terminals are walking distance to city centre accommodation. However, you should book a cabin if doing the overnight ferry trip to Stockholm, as the bars, cafes and clubs are terrible, and there is nowhere quiet for you to sleep in a chair.
Viking Line Terminal;
This is a combined bar, cafe/deli, restaurant and club with an excellent location on the Esplanade. The punters can sometimes be a bit bland (office girls and suits on the prowl) but the food is good and the Kellobaari at the back is pretty cool.
Teatteri, Pohjoisesplanadi, Helsinki;
Named after the former patriotic Finnish president, U Kaleva is a bar my friend and I stumbled upon on our first trip to Helsinki. Melancholy strains of Finnish tango drew us in off the chilly street; the babble of laughter and strange consonants sucking us into a steaming crush which hushed as we entered. They were all regulars.
A girl wearing a "Mean people SUCK" badge eyed us up, and I wondered out loud what the red drink was they were all sipping."I don't know the name in English," she replied, after quick consulation of her card-playing chums. "Just ask the barman for the red drink everyone is drinking." The ice in the vodka and cloudberry juice began to melt as we squeezed our way through the throng.
Lots of folk were wearing leather and there were men in make-up. A boxer on a barstool asked me how we'd found this place for Finnish intellectuals before quizzing me on Dostoyesvsky. A blonde ice-maiden asked my friend "Why have you come to Finland? We are such uncomfortable people." Contrary to popular opinion, the Finns are anything but reticent, as we discussed poetry, Arsenal's performance that day, the unmerited prevalence of the Swedish language and the prevailing merits of a range of strange vodkas (including liquorice).
Many Scandinavian shots later we joined in a game of dancing to Suomi humppa around the bar and hugging new-found Lapp friends before rolling off like snowflakes into the Helsinki night.
(09) 680 1372
If you live in Finland, this brand must be overexposed but for the foreigner it still looks bright and funky. A great range of clothes, accessories and homeware. The best stuff harks back to bold 1960s prints but it also does a line of sober businesswear for women. It's not cheap but then it seems to be mostly manufactured in Finland rather than a far eastern sweatshop and the quality and durability are excellent. There's a factory outlet in Herttoniemi (on the metro line), where the prices are a bit less shocking.
Marimekko, Pohjoisesplanadi, Helsinki (and branches);
Irish pub in the centre of Helsinki. Authentically Irish with Irish customers as well as bar staff.
As you'd expect for Helsinki, drink is not cheap - about €11 for two half litres of cider.
This casual place has a brilliant location right on the Esplanade. Downstairs is a self-service cafe; upstairs, the comfortable library bar and a restaurant serving Scandinavian/Continental food.
East meets west with spectacular views over Helsinki. Russian and Finnish are the most widely heard languages in this exotic venue which served as the Russian headquarters during the latter part of the Second World War. As the tallest building in Helsinki from 1931-1976 it has been the scene of intrigue that shaped the recent history and politics of northeastern Europe. An unforgettable and atmospheric location.
This is your last chance to see Helsinki, the 2012 World Design Capital, before the snow arrives. Explore the fascinating Design District (www.designdistrict.fi), including the Design Museum’s new ‘The Home – A space and a state of mind’ exhibition (www.designmuseum.fi). Visit Kiasma, the museum of contemporary art (www.kiasma.fi), to see Kaija Papu’s life-size knitted police car. Rest your legs in Alvar Aalto’s Finlandia Hall cafe or spend a quiet moment in the stunning wooden award-winning Kamppi Chapel of Silence. If you fancy seeing some older Finnish architecture while enjoying the trees in their autumn colours, the Seurasaari open-air museum (www.visithelsinki.fi/en/see-and-experience/sights-and-attractions/seurasaari-open-air-museum) is the perfect place to spend a bright autumn afternoon. For evening entertainment, take advantage of the Finnish National Opera’s low prices (as little as 14 euros) and enjoy The Magic Flute, Don Carlos or Tosca (www.opera.fi).
This is a small seafood restaurant on the western side of Helsinki. It has plenty of seafaring memorabilia on the walls.
Head along Bulevarden and at the end of the road it is to the right facing the water.
The pricing was decent and the food was delicious.
This record shop is on the same road as the Rock Church and has a good selection of vinyl and CDs, including a metal section. The staff were helpful in pointing out Finnish bands and there is a section of the shop where you can listen to records or CDs to see if you like them, complete with a comfy chair.
A viking-themed restaurant tucked away in a small shopping corridor opposite Stockmann, Harald is a bit pricey but worth the money. (Most restaurants in Helsinki tend to be a bit more expensive.)
The staff were nice and the atmosphere combined with the lovely food (I had bear) made a great evening.
Citykäytävä 2. krs, Aleksanterinkatu 21, 00100 Helsinki
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