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Way up in the far reaches of northern Finland, amid the snow cloaked forests of lapland, there lies an igloo village. I had travelled with my girlfriend to the home of Father Christmas for a winter break at the Kakslauttanen holiday village; a cluster of cosy log cabins and ice and glass igloos deep within the arctic circle.
We never did see Santa, though lying in bed beneath the glass roof of our igloo we were treated to a phantasmagoric light show like we’d never seen. Shimmering between stars that I never even knew existed was the spectacular aurora borealis, a sight more magical than seeing the old man himself!
Sightings of the Northern Lights can never be guaranteed, though in one week in winter we were treated to six nights of this spectacle.
Hotel and igloo village Kakslauttanen, 30 minute transfer from lvalo airport.
www.kakslauttanen.fi/index.php
At this bar you can not only ski-in, but here you can also hit the dance floor still wearing your ski-shoes. Hotel Laanihovi, in the Finnish ski resort of Saariselka, lies 160 miles north of the Arctic Circle and is famous for its afternoon ski boot dancing. Most people here are Nordic skiers whose boots are somewhat more flexible than those of the downhill skiers, but I have also seen people sliding across the dance floor in their clunky slalom boots. This rather amusing event takes place every afternoon starting at 2pm and, during peak season from February to April, there is a live band to get everyone into the swing. A couple of encouraging local drinks before dancing might be in order in here though, as by dancing they don’t mean some half hearted disco movements on the dance floor but proper ballroom dancing with waltzes, tangos and fox-trots.
Hotel Laanihovi website:
www.laanihovi.net/english/index.html
Google map: tinyurl.com/y8zmdzk
The Omena Hotel chain has done away with human staff. You just turn up, punch your reservation into the computer terminal at the door and are given a room number and access code.
You can even reserve a room on the computer if you haven't done so beforehand. For about 60 - 70 euros you get a modern room with widescreen TV, microwave, fridge and free wifi.
There are two in Tampere - the nearest one to the train station is Tampere II.
www.omenahotels.com/
Google map: tinyurl.com/yclmftw
Feel things getting slowly wilder and woolier as you go from the sophistication of Helsinki to the tea, cakes and ice cream of waterside Ekenäs, and then get paddling in a kayak to Kavle island (Rolling Pin island), where it's just you, the rocks, pine trees and a barbeque. Strip down to your chosen level of comfort and leap into the beautiful water, with only the remote fear of a nip from one of the resident pike. Make sure you get there in summer though, as it's frozen good and solid in winter (so you don't need the kayak). If the Rolling Pin island is not your thing, there's a cool 1297 other islands to choose from.
Kayaks from Jöns at www.paddlingsfabriken.fi. Ekenas info at wwww.ekenas.fi
Any of the over 180 000 lakes in Finland! Most of them with beautifully clean water, easy access and free for anyone to swim in. Better still, make friends with a Finn to get invited to a summer house, which usually are found by a lake and have a sauna to warm up in after a dip in the lake. Alternatively, hire a summer house or make use of public saunas, which are an inexpensive way to be introduced to one of the Finnish national institutions. These are open both in the summer and in the winter, when you can try ice hole swimming - if you are brave enough!
Why not try wild swimming in Tampere, a city located between two large lakes. You can find details about ice hole swimming and public saunas on www.talviuimarit.fi
This sauna place is mainly for locals, but it is worth making the effort to go there. It is the only remaining wood burning sauna in Helsinki, and a really unique experience.
I stayed at the GLO in July 2007. I went to Helsinki with my husband for a wedding and most of our friends stayed at the Palace Kamp but we decided to stay at its sister hotel, the GLO. It’s next door to the Palace Kamp so probably the best location in Helsinki. Unlike the Palace Kamp, GLO is a modern hotel and we really liked the room: big room, brand new, very stylish and modern for an extremely reasonable price. Breakfast was also included - a big buffet with plenty of food. There’s a Spanish restaurant in the hotel where you can enjoy tapas.
Hotel GLO
Kluuvikatu 4
00100 Helsinki
www.palacekamp.fi/in_english/hotels/hotel_glo/
My choice for this would be somewhere in northern Finland, somewhere like Utsjoki or even better Ivalo.
In northern Finland, which has very low levels of air pollution, the Lights ( in Finnish "revontulet", which means "fox's fires") are visible up to 200 times a year.
I have seen them as far south as Kirkkonummi, 30 km west of Helsinki, but only very rarely.
Although I'm a bit biased (I'm a Finn), I would still suggest people to go watch the northern lights in north Finland, Lapland.
I've spent most of my life living in Oulu, and even though Oulu is not all the way up north, we are treated every year with a magnificent display of Northern Lights. The more up north you go, the chances of seeing increase. Rovaniemi is the capital of Lapland so check for flights to there.
Since the lights occur during the night, there are hotels in Lapland which will offer wakeup calls for people wanting to see them.
I can strongly recommend the Hotel Hetan Majatalo. It is one of the original tourist guest houses in Lapland where you will still find a warm welcome (in English as well as Finnish!) and delicious traditional home cooking.
Kemi Ice Castle in northern Finland is a structure to behold! Once inside, action is divided into different areas of adventure and history. For example, an ecumenical prayer area called the ice sanctuary with pews covered in reindeer fur and religious crosses carved on the walls.
A 10 minute walk from the centre of town, the Ice Castle is right next to the water's edge. Tuck-up before you go, remember you'll be surrounded by walls of ice!
The hostels get very, very busy during the summer months and it is certainly advisable to book as early as possible in order to get a cheap bed.
Also, be aware that if you have not warned the hostel that you will be making a late check-in (and by late check-in, they mean any time after 6pm) your reservation may be cancelled and given to another person. So if there's any chance of delay, send an email or call in advance of your arrival.
(The alternative is, if you missed out on point one, to hang around hostel receptions at about 6pm to see if they are yet ready to make some cancellations).
The 'Church in the Rock' is the most striking piece of religious architecture in Helsinki.
The chuch was hewn from a huge chunk of granite, the walls left as jagged bedrock, into which a concrete altar was poured. The copper roof seems to float above the church as the light come from a circular window on to which the roof sits. A proper 'wow' moment.
Lutherinkatu 3, Helsinki
The place from where the Five Corners Quintet get their name and THE area in Helsinki to buy music. Vinyl and jazz included but you can get anything from Sibelius to Carl Craig.
Three great shops for any digger: Eronen, LifeSaver and Digelius.
Laivurinrinne, 00120 HELSINKI
www.dubjazzsalsa.com
www.lifesaver.net
www.digelius.com
Helsinki is full of design. It is everywhere and there is even a 'Design District' - an area of 20 odd streets and incorporating 150 shops that caters for everything; interiors, clothing, art, antiques, restaurants, galleries, museums and more.
Every participating store has a free Design District map which details every other store involved and what they specialise in. A great idea.
Walking distance from the city centre, Hietaranta is sheltered by the city, with perfectly clean water and is so shallow as to be very child friendly.
A must see in the summer and also in the winter when the sea freezes (supposedly). We spent a great afternoon there in mid August with only about 30 other people. A real highlight.
Hiekkarannantie, 00100 Helsinki
Tampere is situated between 2 large lakes, and to get a great view of the city, lakes and surrounding forest, head to the Pyynikki ridge. There you will find an observation tower (1€) with a cafe at the bottom serving tasty fresh doughnuts. There are also some lovely short walks in the immediate area and a swimming beach with volley ball in the summer.
A good way to get to Tallinn or Stockholm - much greener than flying. Lots of services, and all ferry terminals are walking distance to city centre accommodation. However, you should book a cabin if doing the overnight ferry trip to Stockholm, as the bars, cafes and clubs are terrible, and there is nowhere quiet for you to sleep in a chair.
Viking Line Terminal;
www.vikingline.fi/index.asp?lang=en
This is a very bizarre restaurant - in some ways very Finnish, but somewhat cringeworthy to a local like me.
The decor resembles a Finnish countryside bar from the olden days and so does the clientele (this is the cringe bit).
You can have your drink under a massive plastic cow's udders or even sitting in an old Zetor tractor. However, this is only the bar.
The restaurant, on the other hand, is in a different class altogether. The food is very Finnish and very tasty - the menu is available online.
I took two British friends here and at least they seemed to love it - as a funky experience more than a would-be favourite bar, but anyway.
Zetor Restaurant
Kaivopiha, Mannerheimintie 3-5, 00100 Helsinki
Phone: +358 9 666 966
Fax: +358 9 624 781
E-mail: zetor@sok.fi
www.ravintolazetor.fi/eng
If you're a fan of BBC's Spooks drama, there's a spy museum where you can have a go at pretending to be Kim Philby or Guy Burgess. As well as the usual spy history displays you can rest your eyes and have a go. Why not try altering the pitch of your voice or reading someone else's email. It's based in an old brewery. After several hours reading and playing at being 007, you'll have no trouble finding somewhere to eat and drink. For real ale buffs, the place serves beer.
Satakunnankahl 18
+358 3 2123 007
www.vakoilumuseo.fi
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