This is a sweet little café overlooking the harbour in the pretty hollyhock-lined island village of Ars-en-Ré. We sat on one of the tables on the outdoor terrace last summer and watched the world go by in a very leisurely fashion - the Île de Ré is completely flat and so is known for its cycle paths and lack of cars. Their coffee is fantastic, but if you really want to push the boat out, order a plate of the local oysters fresh from the sea just metres away from your table.

www.cafcom-ars.com/
6 Quai de la Prée,17590, Ars-en-Ré
+33 5 46 29 41 57
Google map: bit.ly/HVhP83

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Extremely comfortable, affordable hotel right on the harbour front at Saint Martin. Just refurbished. If staying Fri/Sat, ask for a room at the back as front rooms can be noisy those evenings until 1am or so - but beautiful views and quiet during the rest of the week (we stayed Sun-Sat inclusive and only our last two nights were a little disturbed).

They have underground parking a one-minute walk from the hotel for €12 a night but unless you drive a sardine you can forget about it. We could just fit our Honda Accord in with a great deal of manoeuvring but we gave up after the first day as it was so tight and such a hassle and parked for free outside in Parking Vauban (adjacent to the Citadel on the approach road). Absolutely no worries about security there and it's only a two-minute walk away. If you have a lot of heavy luggage to unload, phone ahead to get the code to lower the barrier into the pedestrianised area otherwise you'll have to park at Parking Vauban and walk along to get the code.

Quai Georges Clémenceau, 17410 Saint Martin de Ré, Ile de Re
Tel +33 (0)5 46 09 36 06
www.hotel-lajetee.com/index_gb.php

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Amazing fish restaurant! Simply the best fish and shellfish I have ever eaten. Spectacular selection and reasonable prices. If you're looking for a treat though, head straight for L'Homard (lobster - grilled and served with a delicious cream and tarragon sauce). You are ushered to the 'Vivier' (literally 'live tank') with great ceremony to choose the lobster you wish to eat. A real performance - worth every euro (€12/100 grams in June 2008 - €55-60 for a typical lobster).

11 Quai de la Poitheviniere, 17410 Saint Martin de Re
Tel 05 46 09 20 55

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The harbourside in St Martin is crammed full of restaurants, but this was the best we found by a long chalk. It catches the evening sun longer than many others too!

Inventive food impeccably cooked, decent wine list with many charentais wines chosen. It's generally more considered and less frenetic than some of the other more classic tourist-traps on the waterfront.

15 quai Clémenceau
www.le-serghi.fr/
05.46.09.03.92

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