Extremely comfortable, affordable hotel right on the harbour front at Saint Martin. Just refurbished. If staying Fri/Sat, ask for a room at the back as front rooms can be noisy those evenings until 1am or so - but beautiful views and quiet during the rest of the week (we stayed Sun-Sat inclusive and only our last two nights were a little disturbed).

They have underground parking a one-minute walk from the hotel for €12 a night but unless you drive a sardine you can forget about it. We could just fit our Honda Accord in with a great deal of manoeuvring but we gave up after the first day as it was so tight and such a hassle and parked for free outside in Parking Vauban (adjacent to the Citadel on the approach road). Absolutely no worries about security there and it's only a two-minute walk away. If you have a lot of heavy luggage to unload, phone ahead to get the code to lower the barrier into the pedestrianised area otherwise you'll have to park at Parking Vauban and walk along to get the code.

Quai Georges Clémenceau, 17410 Saint Martin de Ré, Ile de Re
Tel +33 (0)5 46 09 36 06
www.hotel-lajetee.com/index_gb.php

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Amazing fish restaurant! Simply the best fish and shellfish I have ever eaten. Spectacular selection and reasonable prices. If you're looking for a treat though, head straight for L'Homard (lobster - grilled and served with a delicious cream and tarragon sauce). You are ushered to the 'Vivier' (literally 'live tank') with great ceremony to choose the lobster you wish to eat. A real performance - worth every euro (€12/100 grams in June 2008 - €55-60 for a typical lobster).

11 Quai de la Poitheviniere, 17410 Saint Martin de Re
Tel 05 46 09 20 55

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The harbourside in St Martin is crammed full of restaurants, but this was the best we found by a long chalk. It catches the evening sun longer than many others too!

Inventive food impeccably cooked, decent wine list with many charentais wines chosen. It's generally more considered and less frenetic than some of the other more classic tourist-traps on the waterfront.

15 quai Clémenceau
www.le-serghi.fr/
05.46.09.03.92

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There is a lovely daily market in Ars-en-Ré with wonderful seafood and local salt, among the usual stands selling everything under the sun.

Ars-en-Ré marketplace, near the harbour. Can't miss it.

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Another transport option to Ile de Ré is the boat from La Rochelle's Old Harbour to St. Martin. There are only a couple of daily departures and only to St. Martin, but maybe that will work for you.

Sails from the Old Harbour. Boat company servicing Ile de Ré, Fort Boyard, Ile d'Aix:
www.inter-iles.com/

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We arrived by TGV in La Rochelle and quickly found the busses to Ile de Ré in front of the station. They cost about 15 euros and they run the length of the island, stopping in the main towns. There are, however, different routes so be aware that some busses don't go to St. Martin, only the towns on the south coast. For example.

Website for the bus company: www.aunis-saintonge.fr/rebus

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If you're in Ile de Ré you'll be wanting a bike. If you're in Ars, rent one here, at Cycles et Pêche (bikes and fishing gear). Lovely people, good bikes. You can also rent bike seats or trailers for kids.

2, place de la Chapelle
Ars-en-Ré
t: 05 46 29 20 88
cycles-neveur.com/

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A splendid lighthouse at the far end of Ile de Ré towering 57m over the sea. Built in 1854 the lighthouse provides spectacular views. 2.50 euros for adults to climb the 250 steps.

At the far end of Ile de Ré facing the Atlantic Ocean.
Le Phare des Baleines
17590 SAINT CLEMENT DES BALEINES
Tel. : 05 46 29 18 23

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Ecomusee du Marais Salant provides an interesting insight into how sea salt is produced. Both now and back in the day. History, technique, boutique.

Near the town of Loix.
www.marais-salant.com

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I spent ages trawling the internet for holiday homes to rent on Ile de Ré and in La Rochelle. www.abritel.fr seemed to be the best, and most comprehensive, website. We ended up with a wonderful 2 bedroom stone house on a narrow, quiet street a stone's throw from the main square and the main supermarket in Ars-en-Re. Rented from a certain Pascal in Paris. They have an English version and you contact the owners directly.

The site caters to all of France, by the way.
www.abritel.fr/uk/index.php

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Most of the south coast of Ile de Ré is beach but the mother of all beaches is Plage de la Conche on the western end of the island. Wide and sandy and child-friendly, especially when the tide is out, this plage is worth a drive or a bike ride every day.

The Germans fortified Ile de Ré on this beach and their bunkers remain - now tilted and silted and covered in colourful artwork but cool inside when the sun is hot. The film The Longest Day was shot here, by the way.

Go west to the end of the island.

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For the culinarily inclined be sure to order the local oysters (huitres), prepared in many different ways. One local dish worth trying is Eclade de palourdes - clams cooked over pine needles. And a regional treat is the Chaudrée Charentaise - a creamed, fish stew that resembles chowder.

Local restaurants all over the island

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