- La Rochelle
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France
For a market with great food and a great atmosphere, try the one in La Rochelle, a beautifully maintained harbour town on the Atlantic coast in western France. We stumbled across it as we strolled through the deserted streets of the old town on a quiet sunny Sunday morning. As we moved further away from the harbour, we noticed the narrow streets becoming livelier, filling with people carrying bags of fruit and vegetables, bunches of colourful flowers and the obligatory baguette, its top - as so often is the case - missing, presumed eaten already. Housed in and around an ornate 19th century market hall surrounded by bustling restaurants and cafes, this market has it all. Amazing fresh and varied seafood (cooked and uncooked) laid out artistically on ice beds, meats, charcuterie, cheese, fresh fruits and vegetables, flowers, cakes and pastries, chocolates and some of the nicest and most enticing traiteurs we've seen in France for a long while. Made ravenous by the smell of baking wafting about us, we set about buying up a picnic to eat at the harbour's edge, watching the yachts bobbing up and down in the gentle sway.The food was delicious. The memories linger on.
Every morning at the Place du Marche, La Rochelle. To stay, try Masqhotel (17 Rue de L'ouvrage à Cornes, 17000 La Rochelle; www.masqhotel.com), a conveniently situated modern hotel.
Google map: bit.ly/edRwUa
A quiet and calm holiday retreat with fantastic seafood in local restaurants and supermarkets and local markets(La Tremblade). Worth the nine hour drive from Calais with weather that always breaks through even on cloudy days. Mostly clear blue skies but not oppressing heat due to constant gentle winds from the Atlantic. Near to Cognac, La Rochelle, Royen, and not that far from Bordeaux.
There's a variety of accommodation from campsites with mobile homes available for hire (air conditioning and all mod cons available), touring, camping and apartments. The estuary by Ronce Les Bains beach gives access to oyster and muscle farms when the tide goes out. Then there is 3ft of warm sea water to swim in when the tide comes in.
Around the corner and down the Atlantic coast you will find more exciting bathing and surfing. St Palais Sur Mare provides a larger seaside town and a challenging golf course. If you like a quiet, relaxing holiday with wine, seafood and cheese and bread you really couldn't ask for more. I have holidayed with children from three to 18 and they all love the experience.
It's definitely worth the extra three hours south of the Vendee.
Ronce Les Baines is near La Tremblade, 35 miles south of La Rochelle.
Google map: tinyurl.com/38k5hjz
The Marennes region is an area of France surrounding the beautiful town of Marennes on the west coast. I recommend it because I spent several months there in the summer of 2009 and adored everything it had to offer. There are beaches in abundance and many exciting things to see and do, including the Île d'Oléron, France's second largest Island.
Nearest Station-Rochefort
Link - www.lovetoescape.com/spps/Charente-Maritime-1314.html
Great little appartment near to the beach and town centre, both 15 mins walk. Wonderful quiet area, very clean and welcoming.
queensville.co.uk/Studios-in-La-Rochelle/studio_de_la_ville_en_bois.htm
Great fusion of flavours with great service.
Along the old port near to André
Our large family stayed in two of the houses at Les Hiboux, near Chef Boutonne (L'Hibou and Le Noisetier) as the houses could be connected. The facilities available meant that we could spend the two weeks relaxing, rather than driving to other places to entertain the children.
The swimming pool was large enough for everyone to enjoy, with lots of loungers for sunbathing.
The beautiful gardens featured a little stream, fish pond (safely fenced off), two boules strips, trampoline, football pitch, climbing frame, treehouse and space for the children to run around.
There is table tennis in one barn and a games rooom with darts, pool, table football and a range of bats, rackets, croquet, etc. that could be taken outside.
The bike shed held lots of bicycles ranging in size that could be used.
I would highly recommend this venue for a family holiday. The location is beautiful and there is so much here to keep the children entertained. We will definitely be going back.
www.leshiboux.com
Nearest airport La Rochelle - cheap flights through RyanAir.
La Rochelle is a beautiful port town - I recommend a lunch in one of the portside fish restaurants (Place de La Chaine) followed by an icecream from Ernest's, where you'll be faced with a tough choice with seemingly endless flavours. After a visit to the picturesque old port, walk down to the Port des Minimes, one of the biggest leisure ports on the Atlantic coast where you'll be faced with a sea of masts. The aqaurium is also worth a visit, as is shopping under the arcades, and if you have time take a trip to the neighbouring Ile de Re for pleasant beaches. Out of season is the best time to visit these places as in the summer they are both rammed with holiday-makers.
La Rochelle and Ile de Re airport can be reached on Ryanair and Easyjet flights. La Rochelle port is the town centre.
This is a lovely holiday cottage with pool and large gardens, suitable for couples and families with children.
Set in the beautiful, quiet Charente countryside but close to nature and wildlife parks, Futuroscope theme park, Puy du Fou, etc. Surrounded by fascinating picturesque villages. Lovely days out to Poitiers, La Rochelle, Angouleme, Cognac, the Marais Poitevin, Confolens.
Good value accommodation combining ancient character and modern comforts at an affordable price.
Villegats, Ruffec, 16700 Charente France.
www.charenteholidaycottage.iowners.net
Tel +44 (0)191 5192257
Eurocamp is a fun campsite where they have loads of different things to do. When I go there we always take our bikes and go with some friends so we cycle all round the site and get to know our way around.
You can also hire bikes which makes it easier.
There is a swimming pool with slides and a water fountain! There is a lake there and you can hire a canoe (especailly fun for water fights).
There is also lots of fun stuff to do outside of the site so you can go to some of the lovely beaches around.
It is a family place so everyone enjoys it.
www.eurocamp.co.uk and search for the south Vendee.
In a nightmare of over-priced harbour-front bistros this little take-away joint was perfect. Serving fresh pasta in funky chinese food containers, the prices were cheap, the food tasty and there is a little square nearby where you can eat it.
19, rue des templiers
Open from 11 AM
Closed Sundays.
As one of Europe's premier aquariums Aquarium La Rochelle knows it has to impress the visitors who dish out 10 euros at the cashier. The aquarium will not disappoint. Spectacular stuff. You enter through an 'elevator' which simulates a ride deep into the sea. When you emerge you are in a tunnel surrounded by water. From there on in it gets better.
Open 365 days a year.
Situated walking distance from the Old Harbour and the Train Station.
Bassin des Grands Yachts - BP4
17002 La Rochelle
Tel: 33 (0)5 46 34 00 00
W: www.aquarium-larochelle.com
La Rochelle offers a mind-blowing number of eating options. The closer to the harbour, the more expensive it gets.
For a decent priced quality feed, try Le Madrigal. Wonderful pizza, small, friendly and cheapish. Decent kid's menu, too.
18 rue Bletterie
17000 La Rochelle
Tel: 05 46 41 08 28
The beaches immediately around La Rochelle are not fantastic. Hop on a bike and ride over the bridge to the nearby island Ile de Ré, where the sand squeaks beneath your toes and the atmosphere is Mediterrenean and peaceful.
The bridge is just north of the town centre
Other cities have achieved fame for their free bikes - Copenhagen for one - but La Rochelle is the birthplace of many fantastic initiatives that were visionary for their time. Rent (borrow is the word) a free bike by the harbour and pedal about the city. The bravehearts among us will head for the bridge to the nearby island, pretending they're Lance Armstrong on Alpe d'Huez.
By the harbour. Ask at the tourist bureau. Great concept.
If you're in La Rochelle and need a quick beach trip then Les Minimes is the best option. Take the cosy little harbour boat (bus du mer - 1.70 euros each way) from the Old Harbour (near the La Chaine tower) to the Les Minimes port and the beach is a hundred metres from the quay. It isn't massive but its proximity to La Rochelle makes it attractive. And it is cleaner than the beach on the La Rochelle side.
Les Minimes Port itself is the largest pleasure boat harbour in France with room for 3500 yachts.
10 minutes by harbour boat from the Old Harbour in La Rochelle.
You've probably seen it on the telly - every country in Europe has had its version of the adventure game show which takes place on Napoleon's ill-fated oval fort. While you can't visit the fort a refreshing sailing trip can be had from La Rochelle (and Roquefort and Ile d'Oleron). The boat sails past and stops at the quaint Ile d'Aix before heading back to La Rochelle. Takes 2 hours. Great if the weather is hot. Costs 18 euros for adults.
Several companies make the trip. We tried Inter Iles. Departures from just outside the city walls past the little La Chaine tower on the Old Harbour.
www.inter-iles.com
La Rochelle's trademark is the three towers at the entrance to the Old Harbour, the remains of the original fortifications. Picture postcard lovely, the three towers are a must-do for the visitor. The St-Nicolas tower is the largest and most impressive. La Chaine (14th century) is on the opposite side and it was from here that a large chain was drawn up at night to restrict entrance and exit from the harbour. The spire-topped Lanterne, farther along the ancient city wall, was originally a lighthouse. It costs 5 euros for each tower but if you plan on visiting more than one buy a multi-day pass for all three for 10.50 euros. Comprehensive guide folders are free at each tower. Great views, great history lesson.
If you can't find the towers you're not in La Rochelle. Right on the Old Harbour.
We wanted a week in La Rochelle in our own flat and the Comfort Hotel St-Nicolas provided us with a perfect studio for our little family of three. Reasonably priced at 392 euros (245 in off season) and impeccably located in the fantastic and charming St-Nicolas quarter - a stone's throw from everything. The studios are just around the corner from the hotel proper and their facilities (breakfast, free internet, bar) are available to studio guests.
13 rue Sardinerie
17000 La Rochelle
Tel: 05 46 71 55
E: comfort.larochelle@wanadoo.fr
www.comforthotel-larochelle.com/en/accueil.htm
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