There are two things not to be missed in Lille.

The first is the Palais des Beaux Arts. On my first day trip to Lille I stayed there so long that, when looking for a restaurant for lunch, it was too late, "Désolé, Monsieur..." the kitchens were all closed. I had to grab a snack in a "quick".

But this was more than made up for by discovering the magnificent Pâtisserie Méert in the rue Esquermoise. In a magnificent fin-de-siècle tea room you can taste the most sublime cakes I have ever had the good fortune to find.

Though it may lack fine churches, Lille has a magnificent collection of 17th century buildings, incredible shopping and is an easy city to walk about. An under-rated gem.

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The swimming pool museum in Roubaix is less than 30 minutes from Lille centre by tram (Roubaix) or metro (Euroteleport).

The marvellous Museum of Arts and Industry relocated to this renovated 1920's swimming pool in 2001.

There is a huge Art deco rising sun window dominating the scene and the paintings, sculptures, textiles and (glorious) ceramics, showing the creativity behind Roubaix's heyday, are imaginitively displayed around the pool, shower cubicles and surronding areas.

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The first major retrospective exhibition of Berthe Morisot's work to be held in France in more than forty years is on view at the Palais des Beaux-Arts in Lille.

www.musenor.com/gm/gmlillea.htm

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Make sure you visit the Piscine art gallery while you're in Lille. It's a metro journey away from the centre of town, but it's worth the trip to see this wonderful art gallery converted lovingly from an art deco swimming baths, with the changing cubicles turned into exhibit cases. Every now and again there is even a burst of sound recorded from a busy swimming baths to remind you of the gallery's former purpose.

23 rue de l'Espérance, Roubaix
Open Tuesday-Sunday 11-6. Entry 3 euros

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Don't miss the wonderful Palais des Beaux Art. Check out the wonderful pictures inside, particularly the Van Goghs, and watch the fountains play outside. It's a cultural place of peace in a busy, delightful city.

Place de la République 59000 Lille
Tél. 03 20 06 78 00 Fax 03 20 06 78 15

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