In old Lille there is a fabulous seafood restaurant called Le Coquille.

It is situated just a few steps from the Grand Place in a lovely 18th century house featuring antique furniture, exposed beams and bricks.

Fresh seasonal ingredients from the local markets and bread baked on the premises ensure a delightful lunch or dinner.

It offers good value for money especially the set menus that include a glass of wine with each course for approx 34 euros.

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There are two things not to be missed in Lille.

The first is the Palais des Beaux Arts. On my first day trip to Lille I stayed there so long that, when looking for a restaurant for lunch, it was too late, "Désolé, Monsieur..." the kitchens were all closed. I had to grab a snack in a "quick".

But this was more than made up for by discovering the magnificent Pâtisserie Méert in the rue Esquermoise. In a magnificent fin-de-siècle tea room you can taste the most sublime cakes I have ever had the good fortune to find.

Though it may lack fine churches, Lille has a magnificent collection of 17th century buildings, incredible shopping and is an easy city to walk about. An under-rated gem.

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In the middle of the Christmas Market in Lille amoungst the wooden huts selling mulled wine and crafts is a harmless looking Ferris wheel - make sure you don't miss having a go for a great birds eye view of the city especially at night and the chance to be scared witless.

The back of each car seemed so low I spent the entire time feeling like I was about to fall out!

Afterwards head for one of the cafes in the same square for a medicinal hot chocolate.

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Bar 10 is a stone's throw from the Palais Luxembourg. It is a lively hangout with an eccentric owner, and is popular with students.

It also includes a predominantly French language duke box. Note also that the bar staff give very generous measures when ordering spirits!

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Tucked away in the heart of the city centre, La Pirogue brings a colourful African vibe to the cobbled streets of Lille.

Admire the eye-catching wall murals while you choose from the bar’s range of powerful cocktails, some with intriguing 'secret ingredients' (I can recommend the mojito - in moderation!)!

Soak up the friendly atmosphere, and for one night at least you can leave northern France behind and be transported to a faraway land!

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Microbrewery opposite Lille Flanders station. The food here's OK (pub grub - go for the Flammekuche pizza) but the real draw is the beer, brewed on site. Try the tasting menu: four house beers in little sampling glasses. Also sells beer to take home - a three-pack of 75cl bottles is about 10 euro.

22 place de la gare, 59000 Lille;
tel: 03 20 06 4625;
www.les3brasseurs.com

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