This is a small Thai restaurant in the heart of the city. The decoration is less than great but it gives great value for money.

Run by two brothers the welcome is very friendly - the older brother speaks ten languages but not English. There is however a menu in English that explains all.

Lunch menu is good at about 12 euros but even at night it is not expensive. Better than all the options for the price. We go once a week.

Try one of the house cocktails to get you in the mood and if you like chilli just ask. It gets very busy at weekends with locals and the gay set so it may be better to reserve if you want to go on a Friday or Saturday evening. At lunch it is nearly always possible to get a place (even if it is up the stairs). Very small entrance but it is beside the Catholic bookshop.

Just off the Grande Place on rue Esquermois in the old town. Metro Rihour but better just to walk.

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The Sunday market is a must. Get off the Metro at Gambetta and go straight, you're there. Otherwise walk from the centre across Place de Republique down rue Gambetta and get more of the atmosphere. If you walk take a break at Le Stout for a coffee and cognac - it is the café on the corner with a bike suspended in the window. Then twenty yards later you are in the flower market and behind that the covered market. In the covered market there are plenty of treats.

A Polish stall which does the best smoked filet mignon in the world although a bit expensive at 27 euros per kilo. We call it 'baby' at home because it is so tender.
There is also a cheese stand that is good value and massive - so they always cut more than you want.
The other side of the covered is the open market. A mix of farmers' and bulk buy, but both are good value. Olives beside endives. The spice stands used to be good but they have doubled their prices recently. There is also haberdashery and second hand clothes and a fine selection of elephant-shaped underpants.

There is plenty to eat - banks of roast chicken, ribs, Chinese noodles and pies (try the cheese maroilles on a pie or traditionally dunked in coffee). All the cafés on the square are fine but I prefer those on the street on the side of the covered market as they are where all the stall holders go. In front of the church it is more trendy, very people-watching and people who have not been to bed.

There is a great family restaurant on the square but I'm not telling as they refuse to be in guidebooks. It serves a fixed menu of what is fresh and cheap. Fantastic veal liver, fish and chips (French style, no batter) and if the kidneys don't appeal there is a tender rump steak as standard. All this with a starter and a cheese plate or a dessert for 25 euros. Find it!

The market is on Sunday morning from 7am to about 2pm depending on the weather. If it isn't raining it is packed - the Lillois don't mind the cold, only the rain. France is very kid-friendly, but don't take a pushchair as all your kid will see are bums and you get stuck in pram jams.

Lots of other stuff to see in Lille: museums, medieval buildings, general Flemish architecture. A very under-rated place to visit.

Metro Gambetta
or walk through the town across Republique and down rue Gambetta

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In old Lille there is a fabulous seafood restaurant called Le Coquille.

It is situated just a few steps from the Grand Place in a lovely 18th century house featuring antique furniture, exposed beams and bricks.

Fresh seasonal ingredients from the local markets and bread baked on the premises ensure a delightful lunch or dinner.

It offers good value for money especially the set menus that include a glass of wine with each course for approx 34 euros.

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The only way to enjoy Lille is with the animals. Take a visit to Le Chat Bleu (The Blue Cat) - off the main square - one of the most devine chocolate shops in Europe.

Chat with the friendly owner, buy a huge bag of chocolates and eat them on the way to the Zoo.

The Zoo is one of the most enertaining, relaxed places in Lille with some wonderful animals.

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There are two things not to be missed in Lille.

The first is the Palais des Beaux Arts. On my first day trip to Lille I stayed there so long that, when looking for a restaurant for lunch, it was too late, "Désolé, Monsieur..." the kitchens were all closed. I had to grab a snack in a "quick".

But this was more than made up for by discovering the magnificent Pâtisserie Méert in the rue Esquermoise. In a magnificent fin-de-siècle tea room you can taste the most sublime cakes I have ever had the good fortune to find.

Though it may lack fine churches, Lille has a magnificent collection of 17th century buildings, incredible shopping and is an easy city to walk about. An under-rated gem.

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Lille’s famous Grande Braderie takes place on the first weekend in September every year, but the impression can often be spoilt by the overwhelming crowds.

For the best atmosphere, go to the Wazemmes Market at the end of Rue Gambetta which offers customary but worthwhile antiques.

You won’t fail to notice mussel shells piling up outside of restaurants and stalls: the highest – and smelliest – mountain gets the official winning title.

You won’t have any trouble finding your compulsory mussels and chips meal, but avoid well-known “Aux Moules” in rue de Béthune and the neighbouring restaurants – they are usually overpriced and quite bland.

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In the Place du Theatre, find the cafe with mannequins and potties in the front window, but don't be put off from entering.

Inside the atmosphere is so continental, relaxed and friendly. If you like desserts then you've found paradise.

The dessert chef is so proud of his handiwork he'll even come and talk to you about his creations.

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The best Spanish food in Northern France is to be found La Boqueria 8 place Schumann in the town centre of Lille.

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When in Lille try a 'Welsh' for brunch. You have a piece of bread dipped in ale and then toasted.

This is topped with slices of ham and gooey cheese. A great drinking-mans Croque Monsieur!

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Visit the most beautiful fishmonger's shop - A L'Huitriere - and find a super Michelin-starred restaurant in the back of the shop.

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Stay at L'Hermitage Gantois for that special weekend.

Four star luxury with food to match, but you can sleep in a nun's cell with a chapel across the corridor and a gruesome medical museum on the ground floor.

Walkable from the station and totally unlike any other four star hotel you can reach by Eurostar.

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Go straight to the tourist information centre and buy yourself a 1 or 2 day pass.

This will not only give you a guided town tour, unlimited travel on the bus or underground and free entry to all local museums and galleries but also a free glass of champagne with your lunch at one of a number of great Lille restaurants.

I would recommmend L'Huitriere, being one of the best seafood restaurants we have eaten at anywhere.

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Do Lille in a day: jump on a train to get to Lille in time for breakfast at Paul.

Then lunch at Compagnons de la Grappe, sitting in the cobbled courtyard watching friends and families having a relaxed lunch.

Then pop to Carrefour at Euralille and stock up on chunk of brie, a baguette and a cheap bottle of plonk to have on the train ride home.

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Take an empty rucksack on the train to the braderie in early September - emerge from the station into europe's largest bootsale (French tat is much more interesting than ours), and look out for the man-high mountains of mussel shells.

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Restaurant on Grand Place offering good-value bistro food. The mussels, maroilles tart, and the carbonnade were all very good, as was the service. Dinner for two with drinks costs around 50 euro.

44 Place General de Gaulle

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This bakery/cafe just off Grand Place has friendly staff and great continental breakfasts and salads. Good value, and tasty!

35, place Rihour;
tel: 03 20 42 88 70
www.painquotidien.com

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Microbrewery opposite Lille Flanders station. The food here's OK (pub grub - go for the Flammekuche pizza) but the real draw is the beer, brewed on site. Try the tasting menu: four house beers in little sampling glasses. Also sells beer to take home - a three-pack of 75cl bottles is about 10 euro.

22 place de la gare, 59000 Lille;
tel: 03 20 06 4625;
www.les3brasseurs.com

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For weekend breaks try Eurostar offers from London Waterloo to Lille with accommodation. The market on a Sunday is great and the restaurants are good value. I have been going every year for some time now and only had one bad encounter when a waiter took money from the table while I was not there but my wife spotted it, and when I returned he accused me of not leaving enough. The restaurant, Aux Moules, is well known, with the best steamed mussels you can buy. But that is an unfortunate incident that would not stop me from returning to this city. The locals will talk to you with interest wherever you are. This year we made friends with a couple from Dunkirk while in a restaurant and were invited to their home next time we come, and I would say that is typical of the people in Lille.

www.lilletourisme.com/uk;
www.eurostar.com

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