If you're arriving at Perrache train station than I recommend this walk as a good introduction to Lyon: walk across Place Carnot (beware of drug users, prostitutes and pickpockets who plague this square from 9pm onwards), follow Rue Victor Hugo to its end stopping to look at the top name boutiques and shops.

At the end of Rue Victor Hugo is Place Bellecour. From Place Bellecour turn left to cross the Saone river and enter the Fourvière district via the Pont Bonaparte. Go straight across Quai Fulchiron and enter Place St Jean and explore old Lyon at your own pace.

Walk out of Perrache train station and keep going straight

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'Le Crayon' is the Lyonnais nickname for the Crédit Lyonnais skyscraper which is visible from everywhere in Lyon and is the tallest skyscraper outside of Paris. For us Brits it rather resembles Canary Wharf.

Next to the Part Dieu metro station - it can also be seen from Part Dieu train station

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The views from the terrace of Basilique de Notre Dame de Fourvière are amazing with clear sights of Cathédrale St Jean, Place Bellecour, the 'Crayon' skyscraper, and the control tower of St Exupéry airport. Only from this place can you appreciate the immense size of Lyon.

It's also a great starting point for a walking tour of Fourvière.

Just follow signs for Basilique de Notre Dame de Fourvière from Place Bellecour or take the funicilar from Vieux Lyon métro station

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The ruins of the Roman amphitheatre and Lugnudum are worth a look as it's one of the most intact amphitheatres in France and offers superb views over Lyon.

Feel free to put on a play as we did! Free entry.

The Roman amphitheatre is a 20 min walk up the hill from Cathédrale St Jean and a 10 min walk from the funicular station at Minimes

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Place Bellecour is the beating heart of Lyon and is the largest square in Europe not to be dominiated by trees in its centre. In May it hosts pétanque competitions and rock concerts.

Place Bellecour is a 20 min walk from Perrache train station

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Fourvière hill is where the Romans set up Lugnudum (their name for Lyon) and contains the treasures of Cathédrale St Jean, Basillique Notre Dame de Fourvière, Place St Jean, Rue St Jean and a Roman amphitheatre.

Just take the funicular from the bottom of Fourvière hill up to Basillique Notre or walk up from Cathédrale St Jean and lose yourself in the alleyways and squares of old Lyon.

Fourvière hill lies on the left bank of the Saone river opposite Presqu'ile. From Place Bellecour just follow the signs for Fourvière.

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The cathédrale St Jean towers over the Saone river and can be seen from most places in the city. It dominates the old city of Lyon and has a delicious interior which is vast.

Tall columns support richly painted ceilings and beautifully crafted stained glass windows. Don't miss the famous astronomical clock and a copy of the Black Madonna in Częstochowa in Poland.

Free entry

Place St Jean

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Incredibly peaceful campsite in South Burgundy surrounded by beautiful countryside, cycle routes and vineyards.

There are just six pitches in a field next to the owners' lovely old house.

There are loos and showers in converted outbuildings.

There is an orchard. And that is it! No swimming pool, shop, kids' clubs, disco, bar ... a real find.

www.latuileriechazelle.com
La Tuilerie de Chazelle, 71460 Cormatin, France.
Tel: +33 3 85 50 19 55

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One of Lyon's few non-smoking bars, the Cafe 100 Tabac (say it out loud - you'll get the joke even with schoolboy French) is in a busy little side street off the main Rue de La Republique. It serves reasonable wine and beer at low prices, often has interesting and enthusiastic staff, and can provide a simple meal at lunch or dinner.

The big selling point is the intimate and friendly atmosphere, the art on the walls, and the traditional Lyonnais style of the building, with exposed stone, wooded beams and a little mezzanine accessed by a tiny spiral staircase. As with so many Lyon bars, space is at a premium, but it's rarely crowded and the small scale means that it's easy to strike up a conversation with your neighbour.

Smokers should try the Cafe 203 (another French-language gag) next door, which is run by the same people.

23, Rue de l'Arbre Sec, Lyon 69001;
tel: 04 78 27 29 14;
www.cafe203.com/cafe100tabac.php

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From the Latin "trans ambulare", these are curious and often gorgeous covered passages that go all through old Lyon and the croix-rousse district. Lyon was (and is) a silkweaving town, and weavers used these passages to move their goods without getting them rained on.

Without the addresses in the links below, you'd never know they were there, and neither did the gestapo...

Sniffing out the traboules is a favourite Sunday activity of locals too! Just mind the signs asking for quiet, these are often private passages.

www.magazine.fr/lyon-cite/LOISIRS/GUIDE/index.html

www.lyon.fr/vdl/sections/fr/urbanisme/cours_traboules_lyon/a_visiter/

www.lyon.fr/vdl/sections/en/urbanisme/cours_traboules_lyon/?aIndex=1

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Lyon is fantastic for shopping with wide, pedestrianised streets (Rue Victor Hugo, Rue de la Republique) boasting chain stores like Zara, H&M, Go Sport and Primtemps cutting through the centre of the main district.

Just off Place Bellecour is the so-called “golden triangle” formed by Rue Emile Zola, Rue du Président Edouard Herriot and Rue Gasparin, whose boutiques rival Paris for designer shopping. Among Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Max Mara and Cacharel are several affordable shops selling homewares, jewellery, shoes and men and ladies’ clothing.

Lyon is also great for antique shopping: there is the Auguste Comte district, the Cité des Antiquaires dealers, the canal flea market, and plenty of secondhand bookshops and bric-a-brac stalls. Elsewhere, there is a large shopping mall in the modern part of Lyon, Part Dieu, which has 300 shops including Galeries Lafayette.

Shopping
www.en.lyon-france.com/page/p-463/art_id-/;
Antiques www.en.lyon-france.com/page/p-729/art_id-/;

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Climb up the hill behind the Vieux Lyon district or get the funicular railway from Place St Jean up to the cathedral at the top. The hill offers great views across Lyon and on a clear day you can even see Mont Blanc (considered by the locals to be an omen of bad weather, apparently).

It’s the Lyon equivalent of Sacre Coeur in Paris, except that this cathedral sort of reminds you of a giant wedding cake. Also at the top of the hill is a metal tower, which looks just like the top of the Eiffel Tower. Reminding yourself that you are in Lyon, not Paris, there are some Roman ruins on the other side of the hill, including an amphitheatre, which once represented the centre of the city.

www.fourviere.org/default.htm

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Lyon’s famous chocolatier is an old-fashioned shopping experience – creative chocolate displays in the huge, gilt-edged windows, bustling ladies behind the counter, black and white tiled floors, wooden counters, weighing scales and shelves crammed with sweets and chocolate products.

Buy some chocolates for yourself or pick up some presents – the coussins de Lyon, chocolate in marzipan, are the local speciality. Bernachon (42 Cours Franklin Roosevelt) is also a renowned Lyon chocolate maker.

Voisin, 11 Place Bellecour
www.chocolat-voisin.com/

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Situated on a small square in front of the Celestins theatre, this is a ridiculously good-quality two-star hotel for the price (66 euros for a superior double which has rooms overlooking the quiet square and a really big bathroom). It’s been recently decorated and rooms have comfy beds, nice furniture, individual décor and period features like fireplaces and exposed stone walls. Breakfast is served when it suits you for 6 euros, the staff are friendly but unintrusive and it’s slap bang in the middle of the central Presque-ile district.

Hôtel du Théâtre, Place des Celestins, Lyon;
www.hotel-du-theatre.fr

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The most incredible chocolate shop (try the superlative dark chocolate ganache filled and gold-leaf sprinkled speciality) and next-door salon de thé serving exquisite patisseries and petits fours. A great place for a restorative cup of tea/hot chocolate, sadly in the company of the Lyonnais Sloany set when we went.

42 cours Franklin Roosevelt,
69006 Lyon; Tel: +33 (0)4 78 24 37 98
fax: +33 (0)4 78 52 67 77;
Metro Foch

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Punch and Judy but better, witty and even satirical, for kids of ALL ages!

The two companies listed even have evening shows especially for adults, where the peccadilloes of politicians and other figures local and national get their comeuppance, but all in good fun.

There are two other Guignol theatres; the Yvonne Moritz company does open air shows in the Parc de la Tête d'Or using traditional repertoire, the Daniel Strebl company on the Croix-Rousse is only suitable for toddlers

This is only if you have a reasonable level of French, but if you do, and you miss Guignol, you've missed Lyon!

Compagnie des Zonzons
2, Rue Louis Carrand
Vieux Lyon
www.guignol-lyon.com/

La Maison de Guignol
2 Montée du Gourguillon
Vieux Lyon
lamaisondeguignol.free.fr/index2.htm

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Typical, bustling, bouchon lyonnais with a menu at 27 euros, including specialities such as hot saucisson, quenelles, St Marcellin cheese and much, much more. There’s an outdoor patio, which is heated in winter. Wonderful wines start at from 15 euros a bottle.
Serves late, but you need to book.

56 Rue Mercière, 69002 Lyon; tel: 04 78 37 6735;
www.le-merciere.com/

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In December there are Christmas markets in Place Carnot, with stalls selling art and crafts, gourmet food, soaps and perfumes and wine. It’s all very atmospheric with a giant advent calendar, mulled wine, Christmas trees and carol singers.

Place Carnot, just outside Perrache railway/bus station

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Food markets line the banks of the river at quai St-Antoine every morning except Monday and it's a great experience even if you don't buy anything. Local cheese and charcuterie are plentiful, and the quality and range of produce makes you wish you could abandon homogenous British supermarkets and do all your food shopping like this. Local oysters, freshly picked mushrooms, bread, olives, seafood, sweets, butters - and everything seasonal and colourful. Even a bit of French makes buying things all the more enjoyable.

Quai St-Antoine; Tuesday-Sunday

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They pack them in at this traditional, unpretentious 'bouchon' and booking is essential unless you turn up at 11.30am.

People eat early in Lyon and in between strict hours - you won't get an order in if you turn up any later than 1.40pm. This place is small and busy, and there is a choice of three set menus, all very good value.

We had four courses for 21 euros - salade Lyonnais with croutons, poached egg and lardons, then typical regional beef and sausage dishes, followed by local cheeses and then dessert.

11, rue des Marronniers, Lyon;
www.chabertrestaurant.fr/ChabertetfilsFrame/vitrine.html

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