One of Lyon's few non-smoking bars, the Cafe 100 Tabac (say it out loud - you'll get the joke even with schoolboy French) is in a busy little side street off the main Rue de La Republique. It serves reasonable wine and beer at low prices, often has interesting and enthusiastic staff, and can provide a simple meal at lunch or dinner.

The big selling point is the intimate and friendly atmosphere, the art on the walls, and the traditional Lyonnais style of the building, with exposed stone, wooded beams and a little mezzanine accessed by a tiny spiral staircase. As with so many Lyon bars, space is at a premium, but it's rarely crowded and the small scale means that it's easy to strike up a conversation with your neighbour.

Smokers should try the Cafe 203 (another French-language gag) next door, which is run by the same people.

23, Rue de l'Arbre Sec, Lyon 69001;
tel: 04 78 27 29 14;
www.cafe203.com/cafe100tabac.php

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The most incredible chocolate shop (try the superlative dark chocolate ganache filled and gold-leaf sprinkled speciality) and next-door salon de thé serving exquisite patisseries and petits fours. A great place for a restorative cup of tea/hot chocolate, sadly in the company of the Lyonnais Sloany set when we went.

42 cours Franklin Roosevelt,
69006 Lyon; Tel: +33 (0)4 78 24 37 98
fax: +33 (0)4 78 52 67 77;
Metro Foch

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Typical, bustling, bouchon lyonnais with a menu at 27 euros, including specialities such as hot saucisson, quenelles, St Marcellin cheese and much, much more. There’s an outdoor patio, which is heated in winter. Wonderful wines start at from 15 euros a bottle.
Serves late, but you need to book.

56 Rue Mercière, 69002 Lyon; tel: 04 78 37 6735;
www.le-merciere.com/

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They pack them in at this traditional, unpretentious 'bouchon' and booking is essential unless you turn up at 11.30am.

People eat early in Lyon and in between strict hours - you won't get an order in if you turn up any later than 1.40pm. This place is small and busy, and there is a choice of three set menus, all very good value.

We had four courses for 21 euros - salade Lyonnais with croutons, poached egg and lardons, then typical regional beef and sausage dishes, followed by local cheeses and then dessert.

11, rue des Marronniers, Lyon;
www.chabertrestaurant.fr/ChabertetfilsFrame/vitrine.html

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If the rich Lyonnais cooking all gets too much, this Japanese restaurant does really fantastic sushi at a very good price. 20 euros buys two people miso soup, salad, a huge platter of sushi and sashimi, rice and a plate of skewered meats. Friendly staff and peaceful surroundings

Chez Fyfy, Rue des Marronniers, off Place Bellecour

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Lyon chef Paul Bocuse has a flagship restaurant on the outskirts of Lyon, but this is a chance to sample his cooking at a far cheaper price. A three-course meal here with wine came to £80 for two people, and local and regional specialties are all well done. It's a lovely old-fashioned brasserie in design too, with good service.

Le nord, 18 Rue Neuve;
www.bocuse.fr/brasseries/nord/default.htm

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A typical bouchon Lyonnais, centrally located, with friendly service and all the local specialities on a 27 Euro 4 course menu: saucisson chaud, cervelle de canut, foie gras, saint marcellin cheese and amazing beaujolais cru wines selected by the chef (house red Chénas for an excellent 15 Euro). Unlike many bouchons, it is open on weekends & holidays & you can even eat outside (terrace heating outside Summer).

Restaurant Le Mercière 56 r Mercière 69002 Lyon Tel.: +33 (0)4 78 37 67 35 www.le-merciere.com/

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