Hardly worth crossing town for but handy to know if you're closer by and in search of organic produce, this tiny market (about seven vendors) is present every Thursday morning, not in the main Place St Jean but just on the corner of the cathedral opposite Vieux Lyon metro station.
Corner of Place St Jean / Avenue Adolphe Max, Vieux Lyon, 69005. Metro: Vieux Lyon.
Google map: bit.ly/rGwSRP
As well as the central Rue de la Republique, La Part Dieu shopping centre has everything and every shop you are looking for.
Seemingly one of the largest malls in Europe and having been there I can believe that claim!
The market at the Quai Ste Antoine on the banks of the Saone offers food and flavours from across all southern France in one place. Local market gardeners jostle with producers from Provence. A must for all visitors to Lyon.
Quai Ste Antoine in Lyon
Google map: bit.ly/f0LtIA
Lyon is fantastic for shopping with wide, pedestrianised streets (Rue Victor Hugo, Rue de la Republique) boasting chain stores like Zara, H&M, Go Sport and Primtemps cutting through the centre of the main district.
Just off Place Bellecour is the so-called “golden triangle” formed by Rue Emile Zola, Rue du Président Edouard Herriot and Rue Gasparin, whose boutiques rival Paris for designer shopping. Among Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Max Mara and Cacharel are several affordable shops selling homewares, jewellery, shoes and men and ladies’ clothing.
Lyon is also great for antique shopping: there is the Auguste Comte district, the Cité des Antiquaires dealers, the canal flea market, and plenty of secondhand bookshops and bric-a-brac stalls. Elsewhere, there is a large shopping mall in the modern part of Lyon, Part Dieu, which has 300 shops including Galeries Lafayette.
Lyon’s famous chocolatier is an old-fashioned shopping experience – creative chocolate displays in the huge, gilt-edged windows, bustling ladies behind the counter, black and white tiled floors, wooden counters, weighing scales and shelves crammed with sweets and chocolate products.
Buy some chocolates for yourself or pick up some presents – the coussins de Lyon, chocolate in marzipan, are the local speciality. Bernachon (42 Cours Franklin Roosevelt) is also a renowned Lyon chocolate maker.
Voisin, 11 Place Bellecour
In December there are Christmas markets in Place Carnot, with stalls selling art and crafts, gourmet food, soaps and perfumes and wine. It’s all very atmospheric with a giant advent calendar, mulled wine, Christmas trees and carol singers.
Place Carnot, just outside Perrache railway/bus station
Food markets line the banks of the river at quai St-Antoine every morning except Monday and it's a great experience even if you don't buy anything. Local cheese and charcuterie are plentiful, and the quality and range of produce makes you wish you could abandon homogenous British supermarkets and do all your food shopping like this. Local oysters, freshly picked mushrooms, bread, olives, seafood, sweets, butters - and everything seasonal and colourful. Even a bit of French makes buying things all the more enjoyable.
Quai St-Antoine; Tuesday-Sunday
The most incredible chocolate shop (try the superlative dark chocolate ganache filled and gold-leaf sprinkled speciality) and next-door salon de thé serving exquisite patisseries and petits fours. A great place for a restorative cup of tea/hot chocolate, sadly in the company of the Lyonnais Sloany set when we went.
42 cours Franklin Roosevelt,
69006 Lyon; Tel: +33 (0)4 78 24 37 98
fax: +33 (0)4 78 52 67 77;
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