Aperitif:
La Caravelle
Bar on the first floor of the Belle Vue with a great view from the terrace if you can get a table there and tapas served with drinks.

Best Bistro
Le Bistrot a Vin
Simple, good Provencal food paired with fantastic wine selections at a very reasonable price.

La Côte de Boeuf
Steakhouse with an amazing wine cellar.

For the best bouillabaisse in Marseille head to
Chez Michel.

La Caravelle
www.lacaravelle-marseille.fr
34 quai du Port 13002 Marseille
France
+33 4 91 90 36 64

Bistrot a Vin
7 Rue Sainte, 13001 Marseilles, France
+33(0)4 91 54 02 20

La Cote de Boeuf
35 Cours Honoré d'Estienne d'Orves
13001 Marseilles, France
+33(0)4 91 33 00 25

Chez Michel
6 Rue Catalans
13007 Marseilles, France
+33(0)4 91 52 64 22

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As far as I know, British weather doesn't really allow us to have outdoor waterparks like Aqualand but it's worth heading to the continent just for them. In particular, Aqualand St Cyr is a great way to spend a hot summer's day if you want to be away from the chaos of Med beaches. There are rapids, pools of all sorts for over excited kids but also a great creperie and 'espace détente' where parents can rest.

www.aqualand.fr/les-parcs,saint_cyrsmer.html
Mas des capellans, 66750 St Cyprien
+33(0)468214949
Google map: bit.ly/dLPDm9

ZAC des Pradeaux
83270 ST CYR SUR MER
tél : 0044 4.94.32.08.32
fax: 0044 4.94.32.11.02

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From Marseille the seacliffs around the coast - Les Calanques - are easily reached by metro and bus and some minutes of walking. Here you can go for long walks and you will find some of the best sports climbing in all of Europe. The routes are generally very well protected. During midsummer walking and climbing is forbidden, but during spring and in the autumn the Calanques are open. The scenery is beautiful with white cliffs and a clear blue sea. The young Joseph Conrad left the old port of Marseille on his first ship.

Google map: bit.ly/edF0al

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If you want to be in on the local secrets of Marseille then you need to check out 'My Little Marseille', it is up to the minute, latest tips on food, fashion, chilling out, partying, shopping, pampering and lots more.

I get an update every week with tips on everything from Tom the resident Rasta tailor who will turn your chosen fabric into a stylish dress (and drives a rastafarian inspired London cab) to where to go for a fish pedicure (thats little fish nibbling your feet, a massage and exfoliation treatment all in one).

Its in french sorry, but better than any printed guide book by a mile! Even if you don't read french, its only a google translate away to discover these excellent recommended secrets of Marseille.

www.mylittlemarseille.com

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Great bar with a small balcony with views of the Old Port and Notre Dame. Go between 6 and 9. Amazing nibbles are served with every drink: olives, sardines, chicken wings, squid...

The old port

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A spacious holiday studio with a view of both the Vieux Port and Notre Dame de la Garde. The place is one of a few apartments run by Romain who was full of advice on where to go.

In the evening the place is buzzing with all the seafood restaurants and bars.

For daytime activities take the free ferry boat a few steps away at Place Aux Huiles across to the Hotel du Ville (no quicker than walking but a lot more fun) and explore the Panier district or take the 83 bus to the Prado Beach.

Place Aux Huiles
www.apartmentmarseille.com
Romain - Tel: +33 6 77 94 34 50

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A bus from the centre of Marseille will take you to the head of the trails (through some unsalubrious bainlieues) that lead over craggy limestone peaks to one of the Mediterranean's most beautiful coastal features, the calanques. A little under an hour's walk will lead you to beautiful Sormiou and Morgiou, with pint sized beaches and tiny hamlets sandwiched between dramatic cliffs strewn with shrubs, cedars and maritime pines. The water is crystal clear and sheltered so that it is calmer and warmer than the open sea. On summer weekends, the calanques can get busy with daytrippers, but the rest of the time they are a picturesque treat to enjoy with only a few other people. There are other calanques more easily accessed by boat or from the neighbouring town of Cassis.

Calanque de Sormiou and Calanque de Morgiou, south of Marseille. You can drive the whole way along winding, precipitous, unpaved roads, but as the weather is usually good, it's best to walk - though remember to bring lots of water in summer time! Buses no22 & 23 run to Morgiou and Sormiou respectively from the Rond Point du Prado metro stop.

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Guesthouse run by a sweet and friendly lady called Catherine. Rooms are colourful, clean and spacious.
A delightful breakfast is provided. Catherine will go out of her way to make her home your home.

Pitchounette et Olives
11, bld Tellen - 13007 Marseille
00 33 (0) 04 91 54 38 35
www.pitchounetteetolives.com

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An excellent seafood restaurant located just by the the Vieux port. We had salt baked turbot and king prawns. While portions weren't huge, the quality couldn't be faulted. Ideal for a well earned treat.

Le Fetiche Restaurant
38, rue Saint Saens
Angle Rue de la Paix
13001 Marseille
04 91 54 00 98

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The most delicious bouillabaisse is served in this smart and charming restaurant overlooking a quaint harbour in the Vallon des Auffes. Take the Rue de Vallon west to the coast to enjoy. Finish with a stroll along the seaside looking out to the Chateau d'If.

www.chez-fonfon.com/
140, Vallon des Auffes - 13007 MARSEILLE
Tél. 04 91 52 14 38 - Fax 04 91 52 14 16

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This is an old fortress/prison set on the island of If a few kilometres from the main port of Marseille.
While the fortress has been on the island since the 16th century, its main claim to fame is as the place of imprisonment of the fictional inmate Edmond Dantès, the hero of Alexandre Dumas' The Count of Montecristo.

Only 20 minutes by boat from Quai des Belges in the old port of Marseille.

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This bakery is well known for its traditional torpedo-shaped biscuits made from orange flour.

68, Rue Caisserie in Le Panier district.
www.les-navettes-des-acoules.fr

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Hotel in Marseille right on the Old Port. Apparently a two-star hotel but there was nothing to indicate to us that it was in any way different to a three-star hotel. Seemingly for a few euro more you can get a room facing the port. Friendly and great location.

35, quai des Belges - 13001 Marseille
Tel +33 (0) 4 91 33 66 97
www.alize-hotel.com
alize-hotel@wanadoo.fr

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Third-generation chocolate makers in Marseille. This family-run business produces chocolate made from unlikely ingredients such as onion and lavender, as well as pralines (well it is France!) and traditional barres Marseillaises (dark chocolate covered in fruit such as oranges).

A very small shop but apparently is world famous amongst chocolatiers. Well worth a visit. Black and white pictures of previous generations line the walls.

49 rue du Petit – Puits close to Rue du Panier.

chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2004/07/un_weekend_a_marseille_part_i.php

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You hear so much about Marseille being dangerous, probably a legacy of the French Connection movies.
We went there in May 2008 and it is not at all the dirty, dangerous city of the movies. We would say no more or less dangerous than many European cities.
Probably advisable to avoid the Belsunce area (south west of train station) at night.

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A taxi to/from Marseille Provence airport would set you back approx €50. However buses run to/from the central station (Gare Saint Charles) every 20 minutes or so and will cost €8.50 per person each way. Journey time is about 25 minutes.

Bus stop at airport clearly signposted and is located between terminal 1 & MP2 (terminal 2 which Ryanair and Easyjet use)

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Accommodation in Panier area of Marseille.
Probably equivalent of a B&B but good value for Marseille. All rooms are individually decorated.

2, impasse Sainte-Françoise - 13002 Marseille very near Vieille Charite in Le Panier.
maison.petit.canard.free.fr/index.htm

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Safe, clean, well decorated and cheap.

40 rue Montgrand, between the Palais de Justice & the Préfecture

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Inside the beautiful Vieux Charite building is a small but fascinating archaeology museum with an excellent Egyptian collection and lots of pottery finds from around the Mediterranean.

Upstairs (separate entrance fee) there are collections of Mexican folk art and masks from Africa and the Pacific. When we visited on a Saturday in August the museum was virtually deserted.

In the courtyard there is an open air cafe which serves good salads and other lunchtime dishes at reasonable prices (although service is a bit hit and miss) - it's worth visiting for this alone if you are sightseeing in the Panier district.

2 rue de la Charite +33 4 91 14 58 80

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Friendly restaurant near the old port with imaginative cooking. Three-course menu (27 euros in the evening) offers excellent value for money.

We like La Virgule so much we went there twice on a recent weekend break. Although located one street back from the waterfront it has a large outdoor seating area on a pedestrianised street with good views to Notre Dame de la Garde. Seems popular with locals. Open 7 days for lunch and dinner.

20, rue de la Loge, 2e arrondissement (Le Panier). Tel: +33 (0) 4 91 90 91 11

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