Friendly restaurant near the old port with imaginative cooking. Three-course menu (27 euros in the evening) offers excellent value for money.

We like La Virgule so much we went there twice on a recent weekend break. Although located one street back from the waterfront it has a large outdoor seating area on a pedestrianised street with good views to Notre Dame de la Garde. Seems popular with locals. Open 7 days for lunch and dinner.

20, rue de la Loge, 2e arrondissement (Le Panier). Tel: +33 (0) 4 91 90 91 11

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Restaurant in the centre of "Le Panier", the oldest quarter of Marseille.

Always packed, this is a restaurant without menus or, perhaps worryingly, fixed prices.

Expect delicious traditional food: lamb with rosemary, beef, squid, pizza au feu de bois and fresh fish.

For tourists, prices tend to come out at about €25 a head for two courses and wine.

The atmosphere is warm and noisy: go on a Saturday night for maximum fun.

43, Rue de Lorette , 13002 Marseille
Metro: Vieux Port
Tramway: Sadi Carnot
Map: tinyurl.com/2bdugz

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This was an area of industrial wasteland with some falling down buildings that has been converted into one of the cultural and artistic centres of Marseille.

It hosts exhibitions, concerts, film projections, dance shows, theatre performances, lectures, debates, recording studios and a restaurant.

There is something interesting on pretty much every day and it's not usually that expensive.

www.lafriche.org
41, rue jobin, 13003 Marseille.

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This restaurant is really special. For 15 euros you are served a huge platter of assorted coquillages straight from the market stalls outside: oysters, mussels, crevettes, crab, langoustes and clams are all affordable for those on even the tightest budget.

The prices start from about 15 euros for a huge platter and go up according to the quantity of raw shellfish you feel like eating. For fans of coquillages this prize-winning restaurant is surely a must, but even for those Brits like me who are terrified of eating something so weird (let’s face it…), the lively atmosphere, the friendly staff and the sight of so many people enjoying delicious food is enough to make you try your first oyster.

It is child-friendly, unpretentious and welcoming, and the wine is good too. Forget Bouillabaisse unless you can get a real Marseillais to make it for you for a tenth of the price and go ‘Chez Toinou’. It is a Marseille institution.

www.toinou.com
3, cours Saint Louis - 13001 Marseille

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This Italian restaurant serves fantastic pizzas and great entrecote steaks. Friendly service, with a family/local atmosphere.

Menus in English available.

5 av Prado, 13006 - Just by Place de Castellane;
tel: 0491785652;
Metro: Castellane

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The best bouillabaisse in the town that invented it. A bit dearer than its competitors, but just ask the locals why they eat here. Share one between two for €32 - unless you're really hungry - and wash it down with chilled Côtes-du-Rhône rosé.

3 Rue Fortia, in the restaurant district around Place Thiars just south of the Vieux Port.
Tel.04.91.33.09.73; fax.04.91.33.73.21; loury@loury.com; www.loury.com.

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