http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20799 A delightful breakfast is provided. Catherine will go out of her way to make her home your home.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20799 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20798 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20798 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20781 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20781 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19290 While the fortress has been on the island since the 16th century, its main claim to fame is as the place of imprisonment of the fictional inmate Edmond Dantès, the hero of Alexandre Dumas' The Count of Montecristo.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19290 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19289 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19289 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19279 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19279 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19278
A very small shop but apparently is world famous amongst chocolatiers. Well worth a visit. Black and white pictures of previous generations line the walls.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19278 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19277 We went there in May 2008 and it is not at all the dirty, dangerous city of the movies. We would say no more or less dangerous than many European cities.
Probably advisable to avoid the Belsunce area (south west of train station) at night.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19277 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19275 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19275 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19274 Probably equivalent of a B&B but good value for Marseille. All rooms are individually decorated.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/19274 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18082 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18082 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/15178
Upstairs (separate entrance fee) there are collections of Mexican folk art and masks from Africa and the Pacific. When we visited on a Saturday in August the museum was virtually deserted.

In the courtyard there is an open air cafe which serves good salads and other lunchtime dishes at reasonable prices (although service is a bit hit and miss) - it's worth visiting for this alone if you are sightseeing in the Panier district.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/15178 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/14316
We like La Virgule so much we went there twice on a recent weekend break. Although located one street back from the waterfront it has a large outdoor seating area on a pedestrianised street with good views to Notre Dame de la Garde. Seems popular with locals. Open 7 days for lunch and dinner.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/14316 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13675
Always packed, this is a restaurant without menus or, perhaps worryingly, fixed prices.

Expect delicious traditional food: lamb with rosemary, beef, squid, pizza au feu de bois and fresh fish.

For tourists, prices tend to come out at about €25 a head for two courses and wine.

The atmosphere is warm and noisy: go on a Saturday night for maximum fun.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13675 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13674
The track runs along the side of the mountain looking over the bay of Marseille.

Get off when you want for a swim and a drink and be back in Marseille for the evening. Or you could continue to Montpellier to see a totally different side of the south of France.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13674 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13673
The atmosphere is relaxed: think Schanzenviertel, Hamburg or Prenzlauer Berg, Berlin in July/August.

Enjoy the view over the Cathedral of Notre Dame de la Garde at the end of 'Cours Ju' with a pression and some olives or browse the markets and boutiques during the day.

It's calm, yet cool, and a different side of Provence for those who want to experience the buzz in France's second city.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/13673 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12411
It hosts exhibitions, concerts, film projections, dance shows, theatre performances, lectures, debates, recording studios and a restaurant.

There is something interesting on pretty much every day and it's not usually that expensive.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12411 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12287
An old music hall and theatre, which welcomed Jacques Brel, Charlie Chaplin and Georges Brassens before closing, the Alcazar has only been open to the public as a library since 2004. It is part of a scheme to invest in the Belsunce area of the city which, like most of the centre of Marseille, has an overwhelmingly working class and immigrant population.

It is a vast, modern and beautiful building, clean and filled with light and people during its typically Mediterranean 11am until 7pm opening hours.

The contrast is incredible between the cool, tranquil space of the library and the noisy, dirty and sunbaked road outside, where a tram line is currently being built and hundreds of people go in and out of shops and cafes selling Muslim wedding clothes, north African pastries, mint tea, halal meat, and CDs and videos of Moroccan pop stars.

There are constantly changing exhibitions, a press area and frequent film screenings.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12287 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12286
The prices start from about 15 euros for a huge platter and go up according to the quantity of raw shellfish you feel like eating. For fans of coquillages this prize-winning restaurant is surely a must, but even for those Brits like me who are terrified of eating something so weird (let’s face it…), the lively atmosphere, the friendly staff and the sight of so many people enjoying delicious food is enough to make you try your first oyster.

It is child-friendly, unpretentious and welcoming, and the wine is good too. Forget Bouillabaisse unless you can get a real Marseillais to make it for you for a tenth of the price and go ‘Chez Toinou’. It is a Marseille institution.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/12286 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/7842 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/7842