It's nice, Nice (get that out of the way early, shall we?)

While other cities along the Cote D'Azur may reek of money, Nice merely whiffs a bit. It's one part bronzed glamour, and one part fading seaside resort: filled with sun-dried people the texture of raisins, backpackers, celebrities, yachties and people simply seeking somewhere with the slow pace of the south.

The city may have a reputation for being an enormous retirement community by the sea, but there is, in fact, a much better spread on offer: in the summer it is packed to the gills with a huge number of young people, families and whatever else is left over.

It rose to its present status as a seaside haven in the mid-19th century, when Queen Victoria decided a bit of Mediterranean sun was good for the soul, and adopted Nice as a winter weather home. With its English-style promenade - faded now by a combination of sea air, heat, traffic and hard light - visitors could be forgiven for thinking someone had put Brighton in the microwave; but the architecture still speaks of the city's golden age; art deco hotels, neo-classical, modernist, and Belle Epoque ruling over all.

The old town - Vieux Nice - is the place to go for the best markets, bars and restaurants the city has to offer. In terms of food, stay away from the brash and touristy Cours Saleya and head into the maze of winding streets for a livelier, cheaper and more local experience.

As one of the south coast's budget airline destinations, Nice is a great starting point to explore the Cote D'Azure, as well as being a destination in its own right, sun-drenched, sexy, and as smooth as the pebbles that populate its shore.