Abbesses is best described as a little 'village' on the edge of central Paris, easily accessible by the metro and possibly my favorite place in the world.
When I first visited Paris I was so disappointed by what seemed to my untrained eye as just another grey city - too busy, too full and too confusing. The moment I stepped off the metro at Abbesses, I saw the Paris I had dreamed of - cobbled streets, little parks, beautiful buildings and most of all a calm yet creative and highly inspirational (to the artist in me) atmosphere.

I don't need to list off the best places to shop and eat here because it is all so compact, you can wander round for hours, without feeling exhausted, and discover the endless hidden gems of vintage stores and cafes that not only have the friendliest staff in the whole of Paris but one of which serves their coffee (or herbal tea if you prefer) in bowls! It's just the nicest, coolest place I've ever been to. Great for the young, and the young at heart.

Central Paris (Eurostar recommended, it just saves so much hassle!) Metro stop: Abbesses

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Escape the culture vultures at the Louvre or Musee d'Orsay - head out to the 16th district for the Musee Marmottan.

There, in a peaceful mansion, you'll find the largest Monet collection anywhere. See the entire range of his work, culminating in the Giverny Nympheas, displayed in a wonderful circular gallery.

Admire works of many other Impressionists, including one of the few women, Berthe Morisot, Manet's sister-in-law. Easy to get to (four buses, metro), opposite a delightful park, near good, cheap restaurants - a day out of Paris, in Paris!

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If you are under 26, you can visit the Louvre for free on Friday evenings. In an expensive city, this is more than just helpful euro-pinching.

You can arrive as the setting sun catches the top of the glass pyramid (making for the perfect ‘I heart Paris’ portrait) then dash to all the best bits while everyone is making their way out.

As you stand tête-à-tête with the Mona Lisa, you might finally realise what all the fuss is about.

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I love this place, they always have some crazy exhibition going on, the shop is full of silly postcards and amazing art books. And the café is definitely worth a visit, go to the terrace outside for fantastic views over the Seine and the Tour d’Eiffel. They also organise special events with DJs and live bands.

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You'll feel like you're swimming in Monet's waterlilies if you go late on Friday night - it's open to 9pm - when the crowds have vanished and you have the Orangerie almost to yourself.

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The Espace Dali at 11 Rue Poulbot, Montmartre, is hard to find but a suitably surreal experience. I love to spend hours at a time there, looking at paintings, sculpture and live shows.

11 Rue Poulbot, Montmartre

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Take the metro to Boulogne Pont de St-Cloud, and take a short walk to the Jardin Albert Kahn.

There are very attractive gardens and a little museum which has exhibitions of the photographs and films that he commissioned between 1909 - 1931. This remarkable man sent photographers to remote areas of the world to record the people and how they lived. There has recently been a documentary on television about him and the amazing collection.

It is possible to purchase postcards and posters in the small shop. Unfortunately, the salon de the in the Palm house is not open because the building needs urgent renovation, but there are bars and brasseries next to the metro entrances. This was a fascinating place to visit and is off the usual tourist trail. Highly recommended.

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The tapestries at the Museum of the Moyen Age as featured in Tracey Chevalier's book "the lion and the Unicorn" - a sense of wonderment - no wonder she was inspired.

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The Dapper Museum is small and beautifully formed. Although its name comes from a 17th century Dutch scholar, it suits it perfectly.

Tucked away on the rue Paul Valery in an architecturally stunning building, the museum features art from the African continent, focusing on single aspects of African art and culture in depth (e.g. Congolese sculpture, Gabon masks).

It also has a gift shop and a wonderful café that serves African dishes. While getting to know a city’s major museums can be hard work, the Dapper is a museum you can learn to love in an afternoon.

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No trip to Paris is complete without some celluloid experience. Studio 28 (10 Rue de Tholoze) is undoubtedly one of the best places to watch film in Paris.

Opened in the twenties, its history is closely entwined with the avant garde. It has been upgraded, but keeps its original atmosphere thanks to the impressive light fittings by Cocteau.

The charming garden bar is well worth a visit on it own. If your French isn’t up to it, look out for VO (version originale) which means the film will be shown in its original language with French subtitles.

www.cinemastudio28.com

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Don't go to the L'ouvre - the queues are too long - better go to the Musee D'Orsai to see many of the classic modern art pieces.

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Monet's garden is definitely worth getting up early to catch the early train from Paris.

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When time is short don't join the long queues at the front of the Louvre,by the Pyramid, and loose precious minutes, even hours.

It is easier to enter by the side door towards the rear.You can then walk round more quickly to see all the prime exhibits and be out in about an hour. Perfect for a day trip!

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Don't miss the beautiful 'Lady and the Unicorn' tapestries at the Musee de Cluny; when Tracy Chevalier's eponymous novel makes it to the big screen, you'll be able to say "oh, been there!"

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A visit to the Louvre is essential, but can be ordeal.

You can catch 40 winks on the sofas by the windows to the far east of the museum.

I found someone asleep there, had a nap and found the original guy gone replaced by a couple other girls having a nap.

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Musee Quai Branley is worth checking out.

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Shakespeare and Co. is the English language bookshop in the Latin Quarter, recently featured in the film Before Sunset. The shop sells rare books and offers a bed to aspiring writers and practising bohemians in return for a little work.

Former owners Sylvia Beach, publisher of Joyce’s Ulysses, and Marxist fleamarket devotee George Whitman may have passed on, but the shop still offers a window onto the Paris of the Modernists and the Beats.

On Sundays at three Paris’ Anglophone community gathers for tea, cake and bookish gossip.

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Visit the Cluny Museum - Roman history to Mediaeval History in one building - and the Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries.

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Go to the Arts and Crafts Museum (le Musée des Arts et Métiers), 60 rue Réaumur, Paris 3e. You will find scientific instruments, mechanics, transport, etc. It is pleasantly old-fashioned and fascinating!

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You must see the excellent Fondation Le Corbusier, as it has furniture housed in one house designed by him.

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