Ok, so I know it's hardly original but this place holds a very special place in my heart. Having accepted that, although having been with my partner for a long time, we weren't destined to be married as it didn't seem to be something he wanted, I was absolutely stunned when he went down on one knee whilst visiting the Eiffel Tower and proposed to me. I actually thought he'd dropped something when he bent down and started to look around to see what it was he'd lost. We returned to the City of love and lights for our first anniversary but circumstances haven't allowed for a return visit since. But I live in hope. If you have the chance, just go!

Address of the Eiffel Tower:
5 avenue Anatole France
Quai Branly 75007 Paris
France
Tel: 33 01 44 11 23 23

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One famous flea market is the Porte de Vanves in Paris. Its is one of the best in France due to its size and variety. On Saturdays and Sundays more than 300 vendors set up shop. It may be messy, but it is more for people who love good bargains.

pucesdevanves.typepad.com/
Avenue Georges Lafenestre, 75014 Paris, France
+33 6 86 89 99 96
Google map: bit.ly/x1To62

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This is a wonderful 'literary wine bar' in the Marais, that hosts readings and performances. They have a solid list of 'by the glass' wines and space in the back to relax.

www.cafeine.com/
31 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004 Paris, France
+33 1 48 04 71 60
Google map: bit.ly/tgwuYx

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In its way, an anti-travel book. Not against the notion of exploration and discovery, but contrary to prescripted itineraries, tired clichés and sightseeing schedules. A celebration of getting lost in Paris; of finding one’s own trajectory through a city that has been much-written about, but that can still stun you with its surprising beauty.

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How to say this: you don’t find these hotels anymore and Hotel Esmeralda will undoubtedly sooner or later fall into the hands of savvy promoters who will turn this most authentic and simple 12 bedroom hotel, all with views over Notre Dame into a boutique hotel with stratospheric prices. However, for the time being, just enjoy it: rush to this gem of a hotel with its cats and wallpapers coming out of a bygone era. Share this secret address with everyone you love. As with all great passions, it won’t last, so savour every moment of your stay.

www.hotel-esmeralda.fr/
4 rue Saint Julien Le Pauvre 75005 Paris
+331 43 54 19 20
Google map: bit.ly/p5i8v6

* Agnes is our Been there local for Paris. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/paris-local-agnes-poirier.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/AgnesPoirier

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If you’re familiar with Paris, no need to tell you about how pharmacies are so different here, compared, say, to London. French pharmacies are like beauty parlours where you can get your subscription of antibiotics of course but also the best beauty, baby, diet, vitamin, and herb products. We call it para-pharmacy. Of course, this can prove pricey. So think no more and head straight to rue du four in the St Germain-des-Près area. Pharmacy Fouhety is the cheapest in Paris and it stocks every brand and product you may dream of. Be prepared, the whole world meets here and queues are long but it’s all worth it.

26, Rue du Four (Corner of rue Bonaparte and rue du Four), Paris 6th.
Google map: bit.ly/pCcgXe

* Agnes is our Been there local for Paris. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/paris-local-agnes-poirier.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/AgnesPoirier

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Situated on the famous “rue Mouffetard” in the heart of Paris, right next to the Panthéon, this fabulous boutique is typically French, and prides itself on selling products that are original, yet quintessentially French and, above all, of the very highest quality. The delicatessen boasts an array of products, such as Fauchon, Hédiart, in addition to delicious products sourced from small French manufacturers. A wide range of designer kitchen tableware is also available on sale. A very pretty boutique, perfect for indulging yourself, or indeed, others. A beautiful selection of luxurious products at prices which won't break the bank.

4, rue Mouffetard, 75005, Paris, France
Google map: bit.ly/pxyyLZ

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Say what you want about Italian ice creams, and God knows they are divine, the real apex for me is called Berthillon. And you’ll find their glaces in the St Louis island of Paris. Each boule (scoop) is small and pricey but there is no word to describe the ecstasy of their gianduja with orange peel, verbena sorbet and raspberry à la rose. You can enjoy Berthillon ice cream at the salon de thé or just in cornets from their stands.

www.berthillon.fr
29-31 rue saint Louis en l'ile, 75004 Paris
+33(0)143543161
Google map: bit.ly/q2vrr2

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Here is one of France’s best chocolatiers and I know one thing or two about eating chocolate. Patrick Roger makes little milk and black rochers to die for and his 100% cocoa tablettes in their elegant green magnet boxes are like jewels. Roger also experiments with spices and you will find his chocolate with basil a real discovery.

www.patrickroger.com
108 boulevard Saint-Germain, 75006 Paris
+33(0)1 43 29 38 42
Google map: bit.ly/qfcRfI

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Just walked hours from Le Louvre to the Arc of Triumph and looking for some respite far from the maddening crowd? Look no further. All you need is a love for Japan and its wondrous wagashi pastries. Toraya, a stone throw from Concorde square, is this very quiet and authentic Japanese salon de thé where you’ll be able to taste green tea-hot chocolate and restore your natural zen.

www.toraya-group.co.jp/paris/paris/index.html
10, Rue St-Florentin, 75001 Paris
+33 (0)1 42 60 13 00
Open from 10.30am to 7pm Monday-Saturday
Google map: bit.ly/njUFlR

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I saw this bistrot recommended in a 2008 Guardian article as one of the 'Top 10 Paris bistrots on a budget'. I can gladly say that it continues to please. We were superbly attended to from start to finish by the friendly owner/ waiter making us feel very welcome. We ordered the three course menu (€18.50-very reasonable for an evening meal in Paris) and let the owner suggest a wine, which went perfectly with the fish we ordered. A constant supply of chilled water was brought to the table and baskets of wonderful fresh bread. The chocolate pudding and the tiramisu were delicious. As a digestif we had the excellent homemade Vanilla rum (€4.50).

30 Rue Pierre Leroux, 75007 Paris
Metro: Vaneau
+33 (0)1 42 73 28 34
Google map: bit.ly/l0TGpp

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Tourists may be queuing up in front of Ladurée for its famous macarons but Parisians often shlep to the bucolic and authentic Daumesnil quartier to get the best Mille-Feuille in Paris, at Vandermeersch’s. A Mille-Feuille (literally, thousand leaves) is a landmark of French patisserie. Its « leaves » must be light and crispy and its cream delicately perfumed with vanilla and a touch of rum.

278 Avenue Daumnesil, Paris 12th
+33 (0)1 43 47 21 66
Google map: bit.ly/kxdncA

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The Album bookshop is a temple dedicated to the art of Bande dessinée, an extremely successful art form in the Francophone world, which has no equivalent in Britain or the USA. In Anglophone countries, comic strips are considered a mere entertainment mainly targeted at children. The expression graphic novel had to be coined to appeal to a more mature readership. In France, Belgium and Switzerland, dozens of young authors’ names and unique visual signatures catch people’s eyes whenever they pass a bookshop. Asterix alone has sold 326 million albums since its creation in 1961 and has been translated in 107 languages and dialects.

84, Boulevard St Germain, 75005 Paris, France
+33 1 43 25 25 68
www.album.fr
Google map: bit.ly/iRGyVd

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You won’t have to pass an exam to get a room at Hôtel des Grandes Ecoles, just make sure to book in advance. This hotel, ensconced in an impasse with a garden, right in the heart of the Latin quarter, opposite where Hemingway lived in the Twenties, has affordable and lovely hotel rooms, some with Toile de Jouy wallpaper which will no doubt colour your dreams. Room from 118€. It is not cheap but worth the investment!

www.hotel-grandes-ecoles.com
75, rue du Cardinal Lemoine, Paris 5th
+33 (0)1 43 26 79 23
Google map: bit.ly/jyFjFw

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This superb Belle Epoque building with painted frescoes in the heart of Les Lilas, a little village North-East of Paris (métro Mairie des Lilas), is also an art house cinema. Parisians in the know flock to Les Lilas to see films, in style.

www.theatredugardechasse.fr/
181 bis, rue de Paris, Les Lilas 93260
+33(0)1 43 60 41 89

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Baker Pascal Barillon won this year the prestigious Best Baguette Award for his baguette 'tradition'. He got a score of 19.5/20. He is also known for his patisserie creations such as L’Abbesse, a chocolate mousse and orange peel on a truffle paste. Now, run!

6, rue des Abesses, Paris (18th) 75018
Google map: bit.ly/ldezGo

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Here is an authentic local café with formica tables and a tasty menu du jour. If you’re a football fan, you’ll be able to discuss with the sportive owner. This café sits on a very poetic corner of Paris, it is precisely where Rue de la Fidélité becomes Rue du Paradis. I often wondered if the Haussmanian city planners did it on purpose.

Corner of rue de Paradis and rue du Faubourg St Denis, Paris (10th)

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Can't believe this hasn't been recommended? Perhaps it's because most people that post here are tourists! [ouch - editor] Anyway Bois de Vincennes. Great park in the east, busy when the sun shines but massive enough to get lost in/find a quiet spot. Also next door to the aquarium and the Museum of Immigration.

www.boisdevincennes.com/site/index.php3
Esplanade du Château, Paris 75012, 75014, France
+33 1 44 75 20 10
Google map: bit.ly/iyNWck

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On the buzzing Rue Faubourg Saint-Denis, this bar is a lively and fun local. It's opposite the now uber-trendy Chez Jeanette, but offers a much more chilled out and party atmosphere than its neighbour. And much friendlier staff! Prices are reasonable, the music is great and you can even order a curry from the many Indian restaurants in Passage Brady next to door and have it served to you in the bar!
Always packed with young locals, this is the bar (and street) that the dispels the myth that Paris's nightlife is dead.

46 Rue Faubourg St Denis, 75010, Paris
+33(0)1 44 79 06 42
Google map: bit.ly/kR5Gkd

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Encompassing the best of contemporary Parisian culture, this great music venue was the staging ground for my initiation into Paris nightlife. Nestled between the Seine and the urban sprawl of north east Paris this venue caters to a young, arty crowd. In the day the Point Ephemere acts as a gallery showcasing installation art and photography. However, my girlfriend and I stumbled upon this place at night at which point the venue kicks into a higher gear letting rip with some of the best dance and electro music in Paris. We got down to a live set from Freestylers and witnessed a blistering gig with a frenzied crowd that was less propelled by booze and more energized by the atmosphere and people around them. For lovers of big beats, an electric atmosphere and friendly crowds the Point Ephemere is a must and should be your first stop on a night out in Paris.

200 Quai de Valmy, 75010 Paris, France
+33(0)1 40 34 02 48
www.pointephemere.org/
Google map: bit.ly/m1kxxo

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