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Les Tuileries is the most central park in Paris. It stretches its 'à la Française' alleys and lawns along the Seine river from the Louvre museum to the Concorde square. There is a large round central fountain where an ancient Parisian hires out beautiful yachts made by himself - the boats sail across the fountain and the kids are armed with long canes to push them into another direction. We grabbed a coffee and sat around the fountain watching Paris go by and the kids were entertained by the boats for an hour - what more could you ask for 15 euros!
Use les tuileries metro station on line 1
Who’d have thought that a graveyard could be so much fun. But one of the best free shows in Paris is to be had at the Père Lachaise cemetery. All the stars are here in this A-list of the deceased: from painters to poets, from Yves Montand to Marcel Marceau (who was interred here in 2007). It is yet to be seen whether admirers of the late mime artist will establish a tradition of holding a ‘two minutes noise’ at his graveside by way of tribute but a number of the cemetery’s more distinguished denizens already attract appropriate acts of homage from their disciples. Whether it be romantics of the Left placing their red roses on the grim Mur des Fédédés, where the heroic resistance of the Paris Commune came to its final bloody end; or the scarlet lipstick kisses, lovingly planted by gay pilgrims, that smother Epstein’s monument to Oscar Wilde. Whether it be the grungy little knots of Scandinavian teenagers, self-consciously puffing at their spliffs around the tomb of rock legend Jim Morrison; or the fans, of all ages, who make for the mighty marble slab that marks the last resting place of Edith Piaf – the Little Sparrow. I once threatened the French All-Comers record for the high jump when, standing at this spot in quiet contemplation, I was startled by a young woman behind me bursting into a full-throated rendition of ‘Je ne regrette rien’. At Marcel Proust’s grave it is customary to leave an apt votive offering: having no madeleine to hand I left a Jaffa Cake.
But a personal favourite is a memorial to a now, largely forgotten figure. Félix Faure was President of the Republic in the 1890s. Of course politicians back then suffered much less scrutiny of their private lives and Faure was very much a man of his time. Indeed he could be seen as an embodiment of fin de siècle hedonism making the most of what Paris had to offer the wealthy and the powerful (think can-can, think Toulouse-Lautrec).
But a dark shadow was cast over the latter days of his presidency by the bitterly divisive Dreyfus Affair. In an effort, perhaps, to take his mind off matters of state at this tense time Faure was wont to ‘entertain’ young women in the presidential chambers. Tragedy struck when, in the midst of one of these amorous encounters, the statesman’s heart, weakened by years of self-indulgence, gave way. Officials were alerted by the horrified screams of his companion and rushed in to find the stricken President stark naked on the carpet, the suddenness of his demise reflected in the rictus grin that illuminated his features and in – well – certain other physiological phenomena.
It was, so they say, three weeks before they could nail the coffin lid down.
Just down the road from the Eiffel Tower, is an amazing building, totally covered on the outside with hundreds of plants. Well worth a stroll along the Seine for a peak at the "blooming building"!
Take Metro 11 (brown) to Porte des Lilas, walk down Rue Belleville using the Metro stations as your guide. Pass through neighbourhoods such as Jourdain, Pyrenees, Belleville and, passing canal St Martin, finish in Republique, the venue of many a Parisian Riot.
Alternatively, at Pyrenees, turn right on to Avenue Simon Bolivar and head for the surreal, landscaped Parc des Buttes Chaumont (19th Arr), complete with its own mountain, waterfall, temple and an incredible view of the Sacre Couer.
To finish the day, head to restaurant Au Pied du Sacre Couer, for fine yet inexpensive French cooking (metro Lamarck-calaincourt, 18th Arr.)
From the top of the Eiffel Tower, locate the Gare du Nord in the cityscape and set your compass on that bearing (60º, or NNE).
Now begin a fascinating, spontaneous traverse through Paris to reach your destination, unencumbered by map or guidebook. My journey took me along the Seine, beside the Grand Palais, across the Champs Elyées, and along Boulevard des Capucines and La Fayette, with tantalising views of Sacré Coer and other, more hidden gems.
Trust your bearings, and enjoy the freedom of your unfolding, spur-of-the-moment route; getting lost is impossible, as everybody knows the station!
The very best way to explore Paris is on foot – but where is it worth going?
Last time we were in Paris we discovered ‘Paris Walks’. The company is run by an English couple and offers two-hour guided tours for 10 euros, usually starting at a metro station. We went on the Medieval Latin Quarter walk and saw some fascinating sights that we wouldn’t have stumbled on ourselves.
Take a leisurely stroll along the left bank of the Seine, past Notre Dame and go into the Shakespeare and Company bookshop. Climb the narrow wooden stairs, pick out a dusty old tome, take a seat on a worn but comfy sofa in the corner next to the contented sleepy black cat and peruse it at your leisure.
Paris is a city to be explored largely on foot. Even with limited time you can experience the sights, sounds and sensations of much of the city in a single day. Walking from Notre Dame across the Seine is historic. Heading through Les Jardins des Tuileries which are romantic, via the Louvre and Monet’s Orangerie museum is artistic. Approaching Place de La Concorde is photogenic, the Champs Elysee is then ultra-chic, and the Arc de Triomphe is hectic! From there head down to the Trocadero and Palais de Chaillot to the Eiffel Tower for the final panorama.
Promenade Plantee is a lovely park, built on an elevated disused railway line. It provides a welcome break from the traffic!
When visiting Paris, try to visit Montmartre in the early evening. There are lots of wonderful street artists and street sellers selling their wares and if you reach Sacre Coeur as it is turning dusk, it is a truly beautiful sight to behold. So much so that it's where my husband proposed.
Make sure you visit the Parc de Citroen. Built on what used to be wasteland, it's a shining example of garden design in that it fuses the surrounding buildings into the planting and landscaping. Whatever the season, it's so worth a stroll - calming yet impressive.
Walk from the Gare du Nord to Montmartre whenever you arrive at night. It is only about 15 minutes but you will love and feel Paris immediately!
Take a break from the hustle of Paris streets and walk along the canals. A beautiful stretch of canals can be found not far from the Gare du Nord.
Watch as huge barges and pleasure boats negotiate the network of locks. See Paris from a different angle and work up a thirst for a café pit stop.
Walk round the Marais - the old Jewish quarter is fascinating.
When in Paris, I always take this walk - from Blvd St Germain, up to Place St Sulpice (stop off at a cafe), along to Luxembourg Gardens, then go along rue Soufflot to the Pantheon.
There are stunning views down rue St Jacques. Take a camera and then walk down steep hill to eat at Guadeamus - the Beef and Aubergine stew is amazing!
Formerly a railway track linking the Bastille Square to Saint Maur, the "Promenade Plantée" is a hidden oasis of Paris.
Climb the concrete steps from the bustling rue de Lyon, and stumble upon an enchanting winding path filled with an explosion of marigolds, pink roses and trailing vines.
Over the course of about 3km you will be able to gaze over the rooftops of Paris and discover a plethora of small gardens, ageing viaducts and strolling lovers, young and old, arm in arm.
The path finishes at the golden gate and the Vincennes park to the east of the city.
When in Paris, and visit Versailles, don't just admire the Palace. Walk down the road to the wonderful market in the town, admire the magnificent vegetables and fruit, sample the magnificent cheeses and drink coffee in one of the lively cafes around the market.
On the final weekend of the Tour de France, stay in a hotel just off the Champs Elysee.
On Sunday walk up and down the closed off Champs Elysee in the morning and watch the bike race in the afternoon. There are floats and the riders do a number of circuits so its not over in a flash!
Take a stroll through the Ile Saint Louis.
No matter what time of day you visit, it is always a quiet oasis, especially compared with the busy Ile de la Cite (where Notre Dame can be found).
There are some beautiful little shops, selling everything from beautiful clothes to handmade children's toys, and some lovely little cafes. Its almost village-like in its ambience and you won't find the usual tourist trappings that you find in a lot of areas of the city.
Get up early on a Sunday morning and take a pre-breakfast stroll around the Opera area, then down to Concorde and along the Seine via a couple of bridges.
Without all the traffic it feels like Paris must have been 100 years ago. If you go to Sacre Coeur keep heading north from the church and you'll find an intimate - and uncrowded - Montmartre: a vineyard, a cemetery housing the likes of Degas, Berlioz and Zola - and restaurants without any sign of the touristic assiette anglaise.
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