Only an hour away from Paris, Rouen wears its innumerable charms with lightness and grace. The atmosphere of contented provincial life belies the richness of the historical, cultural and culinary attractions it has to offer.

What hits you first, of course, are the churches. Towering above the pretty town centre is the Cathedrale Notre-Dame, a gothic masterpiece immediately recognisable to those familiar with Monet's work. Less imposing but equally fine are the churches of St Ouen and St Maclou, this second nestling in an old quarter characterised by achingly beautiful narrow lanes, a neverending jumble of antique shops and one of the few remaining examples of a 16th century plague house. If those aren't to your taste, the modernist Eglise Jeanne d'Arc dominates the centre of the Place du Vieux Marche, and houses some of the finest stained glass in Europe.

If the arts are of more interest, the ceramics museum and the Musee des Beaux-Arts both offer significant delights, while the town's theatres and concert halls offer a surprisingly varied range of dramatic and musical work.

Once you've experienced all this, Rouen's geographical position makes it an ideal base for exploring further afield. Caen, Honfleur, Deauville and Trouville are all within easy reach, and all worth visiting.

The final word, though, must go to the food. Within its small town centre the culinary variety and excellence you will find are extraordinary. It really is possible to wander into the middle of town, pick a restaurant you like the look of and have a high chance of eating like royalty. As for the Sunday market at Place Saint Marc, packed with the very best local food, it is simply the finest I have ever come across.