The exciting prospect of lunch hits you as you begin your saunter down Rue Monge on a Sunday market day. Head to a rotisserie where the chickens are plump and the sweet aroma of freshly roasted meat is most enticing. Bird secured, walk the six or so blocks to Jardins de Luxembourg, find a bench with a view and have an al fresco lunch among Parisians with napkins at the ready. A simple and hugely satisfying lunch in one of the finest cities in the world.
Place Monge Marche, 5th arrondissement
Google map: bit.ly/YLbxPf
A little scruffier than its picturesque and sunnier southern neighbours, le Finistere (the end of the earth!) still has lots to offer in clean, empty beaches and hidden gems. After a day on the miles of sandy beach at Kerloch or at historic Locranon head to Le Manoir de Moellien for a perfect meal served in the baronial chic dining room with discrete waiters and delicious, local food from a set menu. Superb wine list.
29550 Plonévez-Porzay, France
+33 2 98 92 50 40
Google map: bit.ly/YSSYe8
Panivol is a beautiful blue-shuttered ferme-auberge set in the Périgord-Limousin regional natural park. We loved it here because of the views, the building, the small restaurant with its old tiled floor, the goats and farm animals and the freshly prepared specialities from the farm. Whilst limited in choice, daily specials include sorrel or wild garlic omelette and civet de canard with local chestnuts. Finish with œufs à la neige sprinkled with wild strawberries. Last time we dined here one of the free range chickens (the kind that looks as if it is wearing big fluffy ankle socks) amusingly wandered into the dining area in amongst the tables and guests. Rooms are also available if you wish to stay.
www.panivol.fr
La Ferme de Panivol, 24360 Bussière-Badil
+33(0)5 53 56 40 66
Google map: bit.ly/Zd2do8
Pack your picnic basket with a baguette, Camembert, a Normandy cider and a tarte au pommes, and head for the old town of Rouen. Relax on the bench at the foot of Rouen’s Notre Dame Cathedral where Monet stood with his easel and brushed his series of Cathedral images and bon appétit! If you are brave and maybe talented too take your charcoals with you and try your hand. If not take coffee on the pavement outside one of several little cafes, like Brasserie Paul, nearby to the sounds of the accordion. Inspiring.
www.brasserie-paul.com
1 Place de la Cathédrale, 76000 Rouen, France
+33 2 35 71 86 07
Google map: bit.ly/YalFRC
On a sunny day wander into the garden of Le Grand Sapin in Villequier right on the banks of the Seine where you can dine on the lawn overlooking the river. On hot days sit in the shade of the magnificent magnolia tree. And as if enjoying great French food “au terrasse” is not enough, you will marvel at the most ginormous cargo ships that pass by gracefully on their way to and from the sea. Having first experienced this lovely family run hotel at the age of five with my parents, and more recently at the age of 55 with my husband, thankfully very little seems to have changed. After lunch take a short stroll along the river to the Musee Victor Hugo.
www.legrandsapin.fr
Le Grand Sapin, 76490 Villequier
+33(0)2 35 56 78 73
Google map: bit.ly/ZHZN2y
Watch your dinner being cooked in the inglenook, you can’t get more local than this! A rustic setting in the middle of the countryside. At the end of a long country lane, park in among the roaming ducks and guinea fowl and enter through the courtyard into this idyllic setting. Don’t go expecting a wide choice but if you want to try home made dishes such as watercress soup, guinea fowl with pineau sauce or duck grilled over the wood fire, which you can watch being cooked in the inglenook fireplace, then don’t miss this treat. You can’t get more local than this!
Les Forges de la Valade, 24360 Busserolles
+33 5 53 56 57 63
Literally on the beach at Mers-les-Bains - Haute Normandie - Les Mouettes is a buzzy bistro popular with French locals. Serves fresh fish and meat dishes, including scallops when in season, to enjoy overlooking the sea. Get your timings right because its open (and indeed only there!) from April to 11th November after which cranes come along and dismantle the entire restaurant to comply with seasonal “beach dining licencing rules”. If you still haven’t sampled enough seafood take a stroll to the quayside at nearby Le Treport where boats arrive with the daily catch.
Les Mouettes, Esplanade du Général Leclerc, 80350 Mers-les-Bains
+33 2 35 86 30 38
Google map: bit.ly/XTFwWf
A small, intimate restaurant set in a 17th Century townhouse that fits beautifully into the medieval atmosphere of Dinan.
Grilled meat is cooked on an open fireplace within. Flames and delicious aromas add to the all important 'je ne sais quoi.' Although fully booked we were left unhurried and had plenty of time to savour delicious local wines while drinking in the period details of the setting.
6 rue Sainte-Claire, 22100 Dinan, Brittany
+33(0)2963 90252
Google map: bit.ly/14jZMmB
As you drive through the tall fir trees along the winding hilly roads in search of Les Chalet du Tarn, where to your side rolls the calm, serene Tarn river, you can't help feeling as though you have escaped. Escaped the busy day-to-day hassle of life, the crowds and heat of tourists and have discovered a wonderful retreat in the heart of the French countryside in the Midi-Pyrenees.
The road curves and you cross a small, stone bridge and crawl across taking in the breathtaking views up and down the Tarn. A quaint church sits at the opposite side and as you reach this you take the lane to the left, following alongside the river again, driving carefully between it's banks and the Chateaux on your right. This is a place of heritage and original architecture.
Les Chalet du Tarn is a campsite, but there are chalets you can hire. Before you have even pitched your tent, with views that are hard to put into words, the friendly owner invites you to dine tonight - what's on the menu? "Ce soir", he says, "Moules frites". Heaven to my senses.
Each night the owners create a new menu, everything is home made and served fresh to your private, if basic, table.
Imagine: you are sat back, relaxed, with a glass of locale vin blanc/rouge/rose in your hand; the quiet hush surrounds you, a slight rustling of the trees and background run of the river; a few children play over in the park while on the other tables couples sit and converse in their mother tongue. The owner stands command over the hot coals, stirring and lifting the steaming moules in a home made garlic and white wine sauce. The smell is phenomenal. He is a master of precision, carefully watching and marinading the most incredible moules you will ever eat (and that is some claim).
As they are served, straight from the huge wok style pan, to your table the traditional skinny frites are rushed from the kitchen by his wife and staff where you are left to dive in and devour these delights.
www.leschaletsdutarn.com/
Lincou, 12170 Réquista, France
+33 5 65 72 34 84
Google map: bit.ly/15sYx7b
At one end of this historically fascinating town is a river and by the bridge there you will find, tucked away, 'Le Pain Sur La Table'. Organic, original and fantastically priced - a three course lunch accompanied by delicious wine comes in at a cool 16 euros each - you can rest and refill after your cultural explorations. And don't leave without buying, from the in-house bakery, one of the best croissants you will ever eat, for tomorrow's breakfast!
1 Pont de l'Etang, 71250 Cluny, France
+33(0)385592450
Google map: bit.ly/XkTFPy
How fresh is fresh? As fresh as the newly harvested shellfish served up by the Demoiselles de Dupuy restaurant which is hidden away in the little Languedoc village of Bouzigues. With your feet lapped by the saltwaters of the enormous lagoon which is the Etang de Thau, marvel as it yields up the platters put before you.
The handsome young patron is also a 'producteur' , a farmer of the fresh shellfish which are some of the most delicious in France. So as you sit at one of the little tables in the tiny courtyard, or under the shady sail canopy, the oysters and mussels are being brought ashore before your eyes.
The menu here is short - platters of shellfish to start, the catch of the day grilled on a wood fire, and a choice of two or three deserts. The value is amazing, the local wines are superb, and if you choose the right day, Monsieur may be cooking a brasucade - a sort of clam bake but with mussels cooked on the beach, flavoured with fennel.
The village of Bouzigues is itself a feast for the eyes, full of shellfish restaurants of all quality, but 'Demoiselles' is tucked away at the western end, away from the village. But you will always need to book, as the locals know it and love it. Sublime.
lesdemoisellesdupuy.fr/
+33(0)4 67 74 03 46
Very straightforward, if slightly old fashioned, restaurant. I've eaten here a couple of times when I've been visiting CERN for work - it is just across the border. Better value than restaurants across the border in Switzerland, and very friendly when I visited.
1 Place Fontaine, Saint-Genis-Pouilly, France
+33 4 50 42 20 50
Google map: bit.ly/XNR6oF
Since 1869 they've been preparing decent French food at decent prices, with phenomenally good service here. The first time I was taken there I was as a 9 year-old on a "Paris Travel" coach holiday to the city and it made a lasting impression on me. The elegant dining room with its hat stands and mirrored walls, the cramped tables where a stranger is likely to be sharing a table with you once it starts to fill up and the waiters memory skills and tradition of annotating your order on the paper tablecloth, then jotting down the addition to work out your bill. When I went there last year, over 30 years since my first visit, none of that had changed and I sat with a smile on my face through the whole meal. It is all standard French fare, but well cooked and reasonably priced and I could happily spend a whole week going back every day to work my way through the menu. The wine by the glass, pichet or bottle is tasty and inexpensive.
Trying to expose my children to maximum Frenchness they started with snails, while I ordered the steak tartare last time I was there and we all loved it. I suspect it'll still be unchanged when my kids are taking their own children there in 30 years time.
www.bouillon-chartier.com/
7 Rue du Faubourg Montmartre, 75009 Paris, France
+33 1 47 70 86 29
Google map: bit.ly/WDcABe
On a recent travel forum, somebody asked ‘ Is Marseillan in the Languedoc really as lovely as people say it is?' The answer is a resounding yes. Just walk down to the pretty little port and take in the view - sail boats bobbing on the silvery waters of the saltwater lagoon, and holiday cruisers drawn up to the moorings where a choice of restaurants awaits the lucky traveller. The impressive Chateau de Port, now a restaurant, looks out to sea, flanked by the cellars of local winemaker Henri de Richemer.
Your choice for lunch – Rive Gauche or Rive Droite ? Go left and a dozen waterside restaurants await, offering you everything from fresh shellfish to crepes and fresh salads. Go right, and choose from the fine dining at the Chateau to pizzas or oysters and a glass of Picpoul at the tiny fish stall.
But the really great thing about Marseillan is that it isn’t just a chic tourist façade, but a proper working town. The church square buzzes on Tuesday with the street market, the little indoor Halles opens daily for fruit, veg, fish and cheese. The Boulevard Hotel in the town centre offers steaks cooked on an open fire, or go to the Table d’Emilie for Michelin-style dining. The Bar Marine is where the local stop to people watch over a coffee, a Ricard, or to watch the evening footie on big screens. The Delicatessen restaurant is decorated with retro furnishings, and spills out into the shadow of the church on summer days.
Plunge into the narrow lanes of the pedestrianised old town for shady relief from the sun, where visitors and locals live happily side by side. And when you need a dip, clean, sandy uncrowded Mediterranean beaches are just five minutes away.
Throughout the town, tiny shellfish stalls packed with freshly harvested oysters and mussels raise their shutters at lunchtime and evenings. Locals queue for a kilo or two of oysters – this isn’t overpriced food for the few, but the local diet, cheap as chips. The Picpoul de Pinet wine which is only grown in this area is the perfect accompaniment – sit in any local restaurant and watch the two being enjoyed together. Visit the Picpoul domains which dot the area, and marvel at how many labels can thrive in such a small locality.
Marseillan really is a French town like no other, worth a visit at any time of the year. Buses connect with Beziers Cap d’Agde airport for the princely sum of 1.5 euros making it an easy place to visit for a short break without a car.
www.holidaylettings.co.uk/photodisplay.aspx?home_id=5150
Google map: bit.ly/X6tFUA
Near the very Abbey where Dom Pérignon perfected the art of Champagne-making, is the lovely Restaurant de l'Abbaye. As a break from visiting the champagnehHouses in Épernay, we took a short taxi ride to the small town of Hautvillers, where we enjoyed a leisurely lunch surrounded by locals and history.
Tender scallops dressed in the compulsory French cream sauce, served with fresh white asparagus and delicate mushrooms, were accompanied by champagne of course!. This bottle was from a boutique champagne house owned by the Chef’s Father. Followed by Petit Fours and coffee, it doesn’t get much more French than this.
After lunch we strolled through the town of Hautvillers visiting a quaint antique store and then admired the view of the valley, overlooked by one of Moët & Chandon’s premier cru (vineyards).
With friendly service and a reasonable price tag, this restaurant sits right at the top of our most favourite dining experiences in France.
www.abbayehautvillers.org/
rue de L’Eglise 51160 Hautvillers
+33 3 26 59 44 79
Google map: bit.ly/ZVB1fP
On a recent travel forum, somebody asked ‘ Is Marseillan in the Languedoc really as lovely as people say it is? ‘ The answer is a resounding yes. Just walk down to the pretty little port and take in the view - sail boats bobbing on the silvery waters of the saltwater lagoon, and holiday cruisers drawn up to the moorings where a choice of restaurants awaits the lucky traveller. The impressive Chateau de Port, now a restaurant, looks out to sea, flanked by the cellars of local winemaker Henri de Richemer.
Your choice for lunch – Rive Gauche or Rive Droite ? Go left and a dozen waterside restaurants await, offering you everything from fresh shellfish to crepes and fresh salads. Go right, and choose from the fine dining at the Chateau to pizzas or oysters and a glass of Picpoul at the tiny fish stall.
But the really great thing about Marseillan is that it isn’t just a chic tourist façade, but a proper working town. The church square buzzes on Tuesday with the street market, the little indoor Halles opens daily for fruit, veg, fish and cheese. The Boulevard Hotel in the town centre offers steaks cooked on an open fire, or go to the Table d’Emilie for Michelin-style dining. The Bar Marine is where the locals stop to people watch over a coffee, a Ricard, or to watch the evening footie on big screens. The Delicatessen restaurant is decorated with retro furnishings, and spills out into the shadow of the church on summer days.
Plunge into the narrow lanes of the pedestrianised old town for shady relief from the sun, where visitors and locals live happily side by side. And when you need a dip, clean, sandy uncrowded Mediterranean beaches are just five minutes away.
Throughout the town, tiny shellfish stalls packed with freshly harvested oysters and mussels raise their shutters at lunchtime and evenings. Locals queue for a kilo or two of oysters – this isn’t overpriced food for the few, but the local diet, cheap as chips. The Picpoul de Pinet wine which is only grown in this area is the perfect accompaniment – sit in any local restaurant and watch the two being enjoyed together. Visit the Picpoul domains which dot the area, and marvel at how many labels can thrive in such a small locality.
Further afield, visit Bouziques, an even bigger oyster producer, where restaurants line the shores of the Etang de Thau, Pezenas for amazing architecture and great shopping, Meze for a great Sunday market and Montpellier if you long for small city chic.
Marseillan exerts a real magnetism, with people buying there, holidaying there, and returning year after year. The locals are friendly ( though you will need to use whatever French you have) , and the calendar is peppered with amazing little festivals, where enthusiastic amateurs throw themselves into everything from water jousting to hauling a giant polar bear through the streets to herald the arrival of the Christmas market.
Marseillan really is a French town like no other, worth a visit at any time of the year. Buses connect with Beziers Cap d’Agde airport for the princely sum of 1 euro 50, making it an easy place to visit for a short break without a car.
Families love it for it's safe, easygoing culture, and couples love it for the great food and wine. Perfect for everyone, and it won't break the bank.
www.ruedelamour.com
Google map: bit.ly/YaVcdJ
I recommend Les visites particulières, which is a private tours agency in Paris.
They offer private guided excursions throughout several exceptional art locations in Paris. Their passionate guides open the doors of art galleries, foundations, museums, artist workshops and private collections of Paris.
Oh luxury, a personal driver is provided.
I've never lived such an experience anywhere. Paris is the capital of arts, I live there, and I didn't know there was so much beauty.
With aching shins and numb toes we zigzagged down from the summit at Haut Fleury with hope in our hearts; hope that Jean de la Pipe would be open for late lunch, and that it would live up to the images of warmth and restdom that the locals had so vividly conjured up the night before! What a relief therefore when our skis kindly deposited us outside the front door! We decided to bystep the happy vinchaud drinkers on the sun-filled terrace and snuggle up by the ginormous wood-burning fire that dominates the cosy interior. We feasted on beautiful copious slabs of cote de boeuf cooked over the fire that crackled away next to our table, and moved our heads in sync as huge platters of local Savoie meats were delivered to neighbouring diners! Needless to say that two hours later, the next port of call was a hot bath in the chalet rather than another ascent to the icy summit!
+33(0)4 50 34 22 08
Bottom of Les Molliettes ski lift
There are a bunch of places to choose from to eat at Plaine Dranse near Morzine in the Portes du Soleil but none of them are in the same league as Chez Babethe. The interior is packed with fairy lights, ornaments, fur drapes and people turning it into something of a magical alcove. Babette ushers you to your seat - and she seems to know everyone - and you sink into cushions and fur while you wait for an aperatif. It's not cheap - starters are about 16 euros - and you won't be back on the slopes any time soon. But if you're looking for a slopesie restaurant that you'll remember for years to come then Chez Babethe is it. And the thing is - she'll remember you too, which is a nice touch.
www.vieuxchalet.com/
Plaine Dranse, 74390 Chatel
+33(0)4 50 73 38 77
Google map: bit.ly/VJkJXS
Slope side hole in the wall snack bar with prices to reflect. BUT has fantastic spicy home made soups. "La patronne" travels to India a lot and brings home stocks of exotic spices. The soups are a welcome break from the usual resort offerings of saucisson and fromage and really hit the spot at lunch. Great for a quick aperitif too. Try Peche mignon (like a kir but with peach liqueur)
Place du Tour, Le Tour, near Chamonix
Google map: bit.ly/10ks8zM