The glorious beaches, friendly locals and abundant wildlife have drawn beach bums in the know to Gambia for years, says tipper Lauren Smith

Gambia is Africa’s smallest country, a tiny strip of land on the western coast, almost engulfed by Senegal and overlooked by tourists. But the glorious beaches, friendly locals and abundant wildlife have drawn beach bums in the know for years, who kept the Gambia as their own authentic little secret. Most of my trips to the Gambia have been on charity work when at school, and through visiting local villages and staying up country, you really discover how wonderful and welcoming this sometime forgotten country really is.

Atlantic Coast Beaches

Visit the untouched beaches on the Atlantic Coast for golden sand, clear water, occasional water-sports and peaceful scenes of colourful fishing boats being pulled onto the shore. Several resorts have sprung up along the coast in recent years as more and more tourists flock for sun and surf. In the evening the hotels and hostels by the beach come alive with late night discos. Bakau and Fajara are some of the most scenic beaches, although at all the resorts you will have to put up with a few beach touts and hustlers, trying to sell anything from hair-braiding to bananas.


Banjul and Serrekunda Markets

Serrekunda is chaotic and burst with colour, and is larger and more urban than the quaint capital Banjul, a port town full of faded colonial buildings and old museums. Both cities have the busiest markets, perfect for brushing up on your haggling skills.

At Banjul the markets are smaller and you can pick up local crafts, wooden masks, carvings and bowls, woven rugs and wall-hangings. Everything is made to the highest quality, but never take the offering price – the vendors expect you to haggle and it’s all part of the fun.

The hectic markets at Serrekunda are a sensual feast, and the maze of stalls are worth visiting just to soak up local life. The fish and meat markets are an intense experience – with huge cow’s heads and lines of strong-smelling fish, only brave these stalls if you’re strong of stomach!

Badala Park Hotel

One of my favorite places to stay in Serrekunda, this well-priced hotel has large and comfortable rooms connected by scenic walkways. Each room has a private balcony and ensuite bathrooms with a shower, and there’s a pleasant hotel restaurant shaded by a forest canopy, and terrace for breakfast in the morning. There’s a large pool area with deckchairs and bar and lively evening entertainment in the nightclub - when we stayed there we witnessed a Michael Jackson impersonator alongside traditional drumming and dancing. Next door to the hotel is a ‘Bird-Watcher’s Walk’ trail and if you’d rather stay on the beach, their sister hotel The Palm Beach is just down the road.

http://www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/gambia/serrekunda/31756/
Kiang West National Park
The Gambia’s largest national park only costs around one US dollar to get in, and visitors are rewarded with sights of mangrove creeks and woodland peppered with wildlife. You might spot bush babies, a whole host of monkeys, warthogs on the mudflats, hyenas, and maybe even some crocodiles and dolphins in the water. If you see workers climbing to the top of the palm trees to pick bananas and coconuts DON’T take their photo – they will threaten to come down and make you pay for the pleasure!
Tendaba Camp
We always stayed in Tendaba Camp, in Kwinella when we went ‘up country’, and the camp is a great base for exploring the Kiang West National Park. Built in the 1970s as a hunting lodge, you are also opposite the Baobolong Wetlands for a bird-watching boat trip. The safari camp has a great location on the river, and is surrounded by a scenic habitat of savannah and rice fields.
There’s a swimming pool and great bar/restaurant with wooden benches shaded under a gazebo- we spent many evenings playing cards late into the night and watching the sun set! The bush-pig in the restaurant is also delicious! Rooms are simple but clean and cool, and you can upgrade to V.I.P rooms with ensuite-showers, a veranda and TV. One word of warning – the drive to the camp is always an experience – the south bank river road is in poor condition and riddled with pot-holes!
(4541024; tendaba@qanet.gm)

Boat Ride in Search of Birds
The Gambia is a haven for bird-lovers, and one of the best ways to spot species is to tale a trip in a traditional canoe, called a Pirogue, up river and around the island of Georgetown. The trained guides point out pelicans and flamingoes amongst the mangrove trees and lush wetlands.

Local Cuisine

Gambia’s main crop is the peanut, and you’ll find it used in a lot of cooking. The national dish is Domoda; vegetables or meat stewed in peanut sauce with rice - delicious and kind of like a thick satay sauce.

The coast is dotted with sleepy fishing villages, so seafood is naturally fresh and extremely good. One of my favorites is grilled Atlantic prawns or Benachin, fresh fish served with heaps of tomatoes, rice and vegetables. Other local delicacies to look out for include Chicken Yassa- chicken seasoned with black pepper, onions and lime, and Superkanja, fish boiled with okra, onions and pepper.

If you’re relaxing on popular beaches like Bakau, you’re likely to be approached by market sellers and vendors selling local crafts and food whilst lounging on a beach towel. Avoid haggling for souvenirs, but tuck into the little madeira-like cakes they sell, which make a great snack.