Photo: Dr Patrick Smith
Faded glory
Tbilisi is the capital of the Republic of Georgia, formerly part of the USSR. With independence in 1991 the economy crashed, but the Georgians are getting it together again, albeit slowly, and focusing mainly on feasting.
Get there by BA direct from London Heathrow, or Austrian Airlines via Vienna. Flights are expensive, no cheapies, but once you are there your money just stretches and stretches. Take US dollars and a credit card; the city has several ATMs, but the countryside does not.
Tblisi is a mix of traditional and new, and is an excellent centre for touring the country as it is within a day's return journey of anywhere. There are lots of places to stay, but most visitors will find it useful to be in a bigger hotel where someone speaks English.
In Tblisi, you must see the new cathedral (Georgian Orthodox), and the old one not far away. Soak yourself in the Turkish baths with several different spa waters and admire the traditional decor.
Trips out include: a train to Batumi on the Black Sea coast, with faded Soviet glory; or up the Georgian Military Highway to Gudauri ski resort and then Kazbegi to study or climb the famous Mount Kazbeg in the High Caucasus with several peaks over 5,000 metres; a visit to the Stalin museum in Gori (but take a sick-bag!); the desert cave monasteries at David Gareja on the Armenian border; the old and incredibly beautiful churches at Gelati (not Italian ice-cream) above Kutaisi, with the tomb of David the Builder, where the new president Sakashvili went to pay homage after being instituted.
Georgia is a wonderful country and the people’s hospitality is legendary, but don't bother to get the language unless you already speak several obscure languages. Everyone speaks Russian, and some speak some English.
Tips: take some good torches for the frequent power cuts, some toilet paper and a nose clip for the loos, and a laid-back attitude as hassle is unknown in Georgia. Help and assistance is best given by Caucasus Travel, who have a website with some English pages. They will organise trips for you. Don't try self-drive car hire, as it is cheaper and marginally safer to hire one with a driver as he will know his way around the incredible potholes.
Get there by BA direct from London Heathrow, or Austrian Airlines via Vienna. Flights are expensive, no cheapies, but once you are there your money just stretches and stretches. Take US dollars and a credit card; the city has several ATMs, but the countryside does not.
Tblisi is a mix of traditional and new, and is an excellent centre for touring the country as it is within a day's return journey of anywhere. There are lots of places to stay, but most visitors will find it useful to be in a bigger hotel where someone speaks English.
In Tblisi, you must see the new cathedral (Georgian Orthodox), and the old one not far away. Soak yourself in the Turkish baths with several different spa waters and admire the traditional decor.
Trips out include: a train to Batumi on the Black Sea coast, with faded Soviet glory; or up the Georgian Military Highway to Gudauri ski resort and then Kazbegi to study or climb the famous Mount Kazbeg in the High Caucasus with several peaks over 5,000 metres; a visit to the Stalin museum in Gori (but take a sick-bag!); the desert cave monasteries at David Gareja on the Armenian border; the old and incredibly beautiful churches at Gelati (not Italian ice-cream) above Kutaisi, with the tomb of David the Builder, where the new president Sakashvili went to pay homage after being instituted.
Georgia is a wonderful country and the people’s hospitality is legendary, but don't bother to get the language unless you already speak several obscure languages. Everyone speaks Russian, and some speak some English.
Tips: take some good torches for the frequent power cuts, some toilet paper and a nose clip for the loos, and a laid-back attitude as hassle is unknown in Georgia. Help and assistance is best given by Caucasus Travel, who have a website with some English pages. They will organise trips for you. Don't try self-drive car hire, as it is cheaper and marginally safer to hire one with a driver as he will know his way around the incredible potholes.
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