A small bar and restaurant (Steam locomotive restaurant) at the S-Bahn station at Erkner (end of a line) which looks unpromising from the outside, but inside is cosily furnished with solid and comfortable wooden tables and seats with cushions as comfortable as in an old first class carriage.

They also make the best Soljanka (meat and vegetable soup of Russian origin, only available in the East) I've ever tasted, especially after a walk by the nearby lakes.

Take the number & S-Bahn to Erkner, or save time by going on one of the frequent DB regional train bound for Frankfurt an der Oder, which also stop there. Berli city tickets (valid for zone C) may be used on both

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Walk into any bakery for fresh 'Brötchen' (rolls in all shapes and sizes often covered in pumpkin seeds) filled with cheese, salami, schnitzel, peppers …

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A large chunk of pig cooked in solid fat. Not for the diet conscious or those with coronary problems. Served with peas.

You can eat it at: Altes Zollhaus Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Berlin-Kreuzberg; Tel: 030/692 33 00

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Berliners are very keen on seasonal food, and love their asparagus, which is eaten fresh and white. Picked every April, May and June by a bunch of Poles. It grows in Beelitz, just south-west of Berlin. Available in season everywhere.

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Berlin’s most famous dish, Currywurst is a greasy fried sausage, eaten with spicy ketchup. Good hangover cure.

www.currywurst-berlin.com

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Gherkins have been enjoying a revival ever since their cameo role in the film Good Bye, Lenin! (Get them from one of Berlin’s numerous outdoor markets or in the food hall of KaDeWe, West Berlin’s answer to Harrods.)

KaDeWe, Tauentzienstrasse 21-24; Nearest S and U-Bahn: Zoologischer Garten

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