Germany
It's one of (if not the only) smallish family-owned breweries in Cologne.
It's also home (thankfully) to probably the best Kolsch beer in this great city.
Kolsch is a curious hybrid beer style that drinks like a good lager but is technically an ale. But don't let that put you off, this delightful beer served by gravity from wooden barrels is delicate, yet has hidden depths of flavour that make it the perfect session-able beer.
And what's more it comes in cute little 21cl straight glasses called 'Stanges' which are delivered conveniently to your table by the local 'Kobes' (barmen) until you put your beer matt on top of your empty glass (or just say no).
Great fun, great traditional food, great old building, but make sure your go to the main brauhaus building not one of the bars that serve in town.
it's a little walk out from the cathedral, but it's worth it.
www.paeffgen-koelsch.de/brauhaus/raeume/
Friesenstraße 64-66 50670 Köln
+49(0) 221 135461
Google map: bit.ly/11LVjcX
Great jazz themed bar, amazing animatronic oompah band.
www.papajoes.de
Buttermarkt 37, 50667 Köln, Germany
+49 221 257
Google map: bit.ly/TGzxm6
The Sunday flea market in Cologne is a trove of delights in a lovely setting along the banks of the Rhine. The stalls are an eclectic mix of architectural salvage, vintage clothes, porcelain, prints, tin signs, books, old phonographs, records and beer steins. The food stalls serve delicious bratwurst in crusty rolls, and the market is a mere stone’s throw from the gorgeous cathedral and the Früh Kölsch beer house (Am Hof 12-18). After all, market shopping is thirsty work.
Amazing, smoky little jazz bar. Live bands all night, every night since the 70s and entrance is free. The venue is recognised alongside Preservation Hall (New Orleans) as a World Jazz Hotspot. The main man behind the bar is amazingly friendly - he even remembered us when we came in the second night and asked the band to play us a special song. Fantastic atmosphere, great fresh kolsch, the chance of catching some big jazz names and all the peanuts you can eat!
Buttermarkt 37, 50667 Köln
+49(0)221 257 79 31
www.papajoes.de
Google map: bit.ly/igiEUM
Modern art museums have become our cathedrals of today. The buildings pretentious or vaccuous. The Kolumba Art Museum is not only a great building, but a synthesis of the aesthetic and the ascetic. Peter Zumthor's design gives space for reflection. There is no cafe or gift shop to speak of. The few windows are inward looking as are we, while we focus on the art within. Built over the ruins of the bombed church this modern building allows its history to breathe. A sound installation of pigeons by Bill Fonatna in the exposed ruins echoes the sentiment that the old is as relevant to us now as the beautiful contemporary art on display. Go, allow yourself to be seduced and taken on a sensual journey that will satisfy your soul. Less a place to be seen than a place to be.
Kolumbastraße 4 – D-50667 Cologne
+49 (0)221 933193-0
www.kolumba.de/?language=eng
Google map: bit.ly/fPOGq9
Great Argentinian steak house in central Cologne. Small atmospheric restaurant that sells a good selection of steaks but nothing else. Friendly english speaking owners.Need to book at weekends but it is worth it. Pretty central on Bolzengasse.
Bolzengasse 9
www.elchango.com
+49 (221) 258 1212
Google map: tinyurl.com/3xukjny
It's quick and for 2 euro a simple way to view the city from the river. On a sunny day the Rhine park is a good place to walk and get out of the crowds around the Dom.
On the river bank. Just walk towards the Rhine from the Hbf.
The best steaks I ever ate. For over 36 years El Gaucho has served its guests with genuine, Argentinian angus steaks, prepared on a central, open charcoal fire. Watch and enjoy the taste of these Argentinian specialties - just like gauchos in the pampas. El Gaucho not only stands for quality dining, but is also a part of authentic Argentinian culture in Germany.
The El Gaucho is the first and oldest Argentinian restaurant in Germany.
Barbarossaplatz 4a
D-50674 Cologne
Tel.: +49 221 246797
Fax: +49 221 2402936
www.el-gaucho.de
Every Cologne brewery has its own beer hall, but Gaffel, Paeffgen and Muehlen have the best beer and food (especially Gaffel).
They are also far enough away from the train station and cathedral to be less full of tourists.
Gaffel - Alter Markt
Paeffgen - Friesenstrasse
Muehlen - Heumarkt
Fruh is the best-known and most widely available Kolsch and the bar near the cathedral, (Fruh am Dom), is one of the oldest brauhuses, having survived bombing during WW2. It's a traditional German pub serving good beer and wholesome German food, and a great place to start the day.
Am Hof 12-16, 50667 Köln Altstadt/Dom;
www.frueh.de
If you want to visit an authentic part of Cologne and don't want to go to all the touristy places where everybody else goes, visit the Suedstadt - a laid back quarter with pretty art nouveau buildings and friendly residents, most of them students and young families. Once you've passed the nasty construction site of the new underground line they're building at the Chlodwigplatz, you will find multi-cultural cuisine, nice cafes and pubs, and cute little shops.
A very special place is the Fiffi Bar, where the 1960's furnishing is decorated with kitschy dog accessories. If you fancy a nice park and beer garden, go to the Volksgarten 9 (Volksgartenstrasse). And if you're up for some football on the big screen during the World Cup, visit the Hammond Bar, a charmingly worn-out place where you can always have a glass of Kölsch together with incredibly nice, football-crazy people.
U-Bahn: Chlodwigplatz (Lines 6, 15, 16, 17);
Fiffi Bar: Rolandstrasse 99; tel: 0221 340 6211;
Hammond Bar: Metzer Strasse 25; tel: 0221 932 9229; www.hammondbar.de
A very nice bar/pub with music (a mixture of funk and house) every night from different DJs. The cocktails are really tasty (happy hour: 19:00 - 21:00h), or you can drink the local beer "Kölsch". It´s also possible to order small snacks. Have a good time.
Brüsseler Str. 10, 50674 Köln-Belgisches Viertel;
Nearest station: Roonstraße: Bus 136 or 146; Moltkestraße: Tram 1 or 7;
tel: 0221-9232048;
www.cologne-in.de/kneipen/k_scheinbar.htm (in German)
If you like your beer with a bit of nature, head for the Stadtgarten. The venue is popular with students and has a bar, a beer garden complete with shady trees, concert hall, nightclub and a friendly clientele. It's a 15-minute walk from the city centre. It will be showing games for the 2006 World Cup.
Venloer Strasse 40, tel: 9529 9433; www.stadtgarten.de/Information.htm
A nice cafe/bar in Cologne´s trendy "Belgisches Viertel" (Belgian Quarter).
A very nice beer garden, where you can drink the local 'Kölsch'. It also features a restaurant/cafe, concert hall and the very popular, slightly trendy club Studio 672.
Venloer Str. 40
50672
www.stadtgarten.de/Studio.htm
On Rechtsrheinisch, which is on right side of the river, is a beach bar called Shark Island. There's also a beach by the Rheinterrasse called KM689, and a new one in Cologne's central shopping area. The Sky Beach is on the top floor of the Kaufhof carpark: sand, cocktails and a great view!
Shark Island : www.shark-island-koeln.de;
KM689: www.km689.rhein-terrassen.de;
Sky Beach: www.skybeach.de
This is a great place for traditional German food and atmosphere. You sit alongside strangers on wooden tables and the waiter continuously brings you glasses of beer, until you ask him to stop....most men's idea of heaven!
As far as the food is concerned, I'd recommend the sausage and bratkartoffeln (basically sauteed potatoes) that I had and the schnitzel and sauerkraut both looked pretty good too.
The Germans might not be renowned for their cuisine, but Peter's will definitely make you change your mind.
Cologne old town, on one of the little streets that heads up from the Rhine
The place to be is along the river. You can't miss it. Try the beach bar on the "Rechtsrheinisch" (right side of the river).
The stadium is some way out on the left side of town.
Cologne is a cool, civilised town, enjoy it.
Kölsch is the local beer and much tastier than Altbier which is brewed in Duesseldorf, Cologne's biggest rival.
Go to a 'Brauhaus' of which there are plenty in the old town. Be aware, waiters tend to be very rude.
Frueh (close to the main station/cathedral)
Muehlen / Gaffel (near Heumarkt)
Paeffgen (near Friesenplatz)
Cologne has a rich Roman history. If you're really interested in it, visit the Romano-Germanic Museum. It's packed with well preserved artifacts from the time when Cologne was a major centre in the Roman Empire. And if you're just a bit interested in this history, keep an eye out for the remnants of Roman engineering that are still standing around the city's Old Town.
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