Wandering up a quiet sidestreet back through Dresden’s Neustadt to our hotel one balmy June evening, we came across a couple of empty tables under a window near an archway, decorated with a simple white stone and flower composition, and apparently just waiting for someone to sit down. So we did, of course. After a short pause, a young red-haired guy drifted languidly out of the archway, introduced himself as Ollie the owner, asked us where were from, chatted pleasantly for a bit, and then inquired if we would like to try some local Saxon wines, and of course we said yes.

In a few moments we were sipping at a chilled, floral, round-bodied local white which absolutely enraptured us, with Ollie occasionally sauntering out to check how things were going. Well, things went so well, we made a couple of other visits back to Ollie’s bar during our week-long stay to try some more Saxon wines, enjoy Ollie’s conversation, and, on our last night, to have a delicious light snack of regional cheeses, Spanish and Italian ham, and, this time, a whole bottle of the wine we fell in love with, Schloss Proschwitz, all interleaved with Ollie’s cheerful and friendly banter.

He told us at one point that his family lived quite far away and he didn’t see them too often, but then he shrugged and grinned and said: “Anyway, here, my guests are my family.” What better attitude can a barman have? So, if you’re in Dresden, pop along to Bar Gold, just off Königstrasse in Neustadt, in the Prisco Passage, sip some good Saxon wine, and say hello from Stuart and Bianca!

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The writer Schiller is a local celebrity and this restaurant and beer garden commemorates him in an attractive way by serving good quality food and drink at reasonable prices.

The tables outside are crowded from about seven o'clock on, but there seems always to be room, and the atmosphere is welcoming and cheerful.

Schillerplatz, Loschwitz; about 15 mins out of the city centre, on Tram 6 or 12 from Postplatz (Dresden), or bus 85.
www.schillergarten.de

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The view of Dresden Altstadt from the other side of the river Elbe is probably one of the most spectacular in Germany. The area around the Frauenkirche is still being developed but it's starting to look magnificent already. There are schickymicky bars on the Altsdtadt side, or head for the Neuestadt if you like your entertainment a little more edgy.

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