Tema Beach Club is just outside the Tema Container Port, some 15 miles from the capital, Accra.
The container port itself is one of the biggest port facilities in West Africa, and lacks charm. But head along the beach road from Accra and you drive along a thin spit of land with a serene lagoon to one side and the crashing waves of the Atlantic on the other. Under a full moon it is a journey of unworldly beauty.
At the start of the road is the Tema Beach Club. The Queen stayed here in 1962, and in her honour the place appears not to have been redecorated since, but you swim in a seawater pool, sit almost above the breakers, drink ice-cold Star beer, snack on octopus kebabs and watch queues of giant container ships waiting patiently to enter the container port.
Google map: bit.ly/MrTPzH
Stumble Inn is a traveller's rest in Elmina in Ghana, with accommodation in rondavels, dormitories and a dedicated camping site. The camping site is right next to the beach: you can walk straight from your tent onto the beach, have an open air shower with water heated up by the sun, and grill your freshly bought fish from Elmina market on the camping BBQ. The fish market and Elmina castle (an old slave fort providing a grim reminder of the cruel history of the slave trade) are a 30 minute beach stroll away, if you walk in the opposite direction you can walk for hours on bounty-like beaches, now and then stumbling upon a local village. After returning from your beach strolls you can get wholesome fresh meals and a Ghanaian beer at the lodge's bar. A true African delight!
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