Greece
Located in Hatzikyriakio Piraeus, the menu is simple fried fish or shrimps with a huge Greek salad made from the best tomatoes and Greek Feta, Retsina from the barel, very cheap prices.
They are called tapas in Spain, meze in Cyprus, and appetizers almost everywhere else. But in Greece, they are Orektika or Mezedas. These are the bite size yummies that are served hot or cold, and are supposed to be your starter but can actually be your entire meal. The appetizers in Greece are very special and can be found nowhere else. If you are on a budget, this is the best food to order, because they are tasty, inexpensive, nutritious and filling.
In Greek Tavernas, Ouzarias, and Mezedopolios. See here for more on Greek food: www.travelswise.com/greekfood.htm
A nice cold beer, a dish of Greek delicacies, the Parthenon above, the Ancient Agora below, crowds strolling by, lazy dogs and cats sleeping under the sun waiting for a treat, maybe a frappe afterwards. Dioscuri, a traditional outdoor café on the street that leads to the Acropolis has them all, and at minimal cost.
Dioscuron 13 Street, Plaka, Athens tel: 210 3219607
Metro: Monastiraki Station
Arguably not the best choice amongst hundreds of reasonably priced tavernas, mezedopoleia, souvlakeries and restaurants, but this is why you may (be pleased to) find it hard to spot a McDonalds. Expect to get a much more culturally-sensitive and healthier range of choices than what you would normally expect from a fast food chain.
In nearly every neighbourhood
www.goodys.com/page/
In pre-classical times (before the 5th-century BC), the Areopagus (or "Hill of Ares") was originally the meeting place of the council of elders of Athens. In this sense, it could almost be considered the exact birthplace of Athenian democracy. It is mentioned in the Bible, and was later the site of classical Athens' homicide court. This latter use probably stems from its purported status as the place at which Ares was tried for the murder of Poseidon's son. It is also a very short walk from the Parthenon.
While standing in the shadow of the Parthenon, literally and figuratively, the Temple of Olympian Zeus is a magnificent structure. It is deceptively large, set as it is in large field adjacent to the ancient Agora (marketplace), but has remained much more intact than its more famous neighbour.
Although high-end budget, it’s worth shelling out that little bit extra for this boutique hotel in the heart of ancient Athens. Its upper back rooms and bar terrace have an unrivalled view of the Acropolis and its ramparts. Recently renovated, the hotel is a stone’s throw away from the bars, cafes and restaurants of Plaka and trendy Psirri. Double room: €95 (low season); €145 (high season). Single room: €85 (low season); €115 (high season).
Mitropoleos & Kapnikareas 7; Tel: 210 322 2096; Nearest metro: Monastiraki; www.plakahotel.gr/; Reservations: plaka@tourhotel.gr
Traditional Greek taverna fare with the added advantage of being served hot (and not lukewarm, the fate of so many Greek dishes). Has an excellent array of casseroles and not to be missed fish soup – all viewable in the kitchen. Barrelled wine and bottled retsina also good. This is the taverna that true Athenians will go to. Average price of meal for one (with wine): €16.
Byzantino taverna, Kydathinaion Street, 18, Plaka; Tel: 210 332 7368; Open: 9am-2am Mon-Sat; Nearest metro: Akropoli/ Syntagma
Karavitis is a very nice traditional taverna that is central, but located far enough from the tourist area that it remains uniquely Greek. A good sign is that it is always full of locals. The food is traditional, inexpensive and delicious. Also, if you go on a Friday or Saturday night you might be lucky enough to experience some live entertainment courtesy of an old gentleman who sings to you whilst playing his guitar.
The place is very basic, with tables covered in paper tablecloths and walls lined with wine barrels. In the summer there is a vine-covered patio which is a delight to sit on. If traditional is what you are after, it does not get much more traditional than this.
Located near the Panathenaic Stadium and across the street from the statue of Harry Truman. It is at the corner of Arktinou and Pafsania Street just off the main street of Vassileos Konstandinou in the district of Pangrati (exact address is 35 Arktinou and 4 Pausaniou);
nearest metro: Evangelismos;
tel: 2107215155; open 8pm-1:30am.
Remember that the 12 euro (£8) admission fare for the Acropolis is also valid for the ancient Agora, the Temple of Zeus (Olympeion), the Roman Agora, the Theatre of Dionysus (at the foot of the Acropolis) and the ancient cemetery of Kerameikos and its little museum. Visit the Acropolis first to get this multi-ticket, if you go to the other sites first you'll pay individual admissions, which works out more expensive. EU students get everywhere for free, non-EU students get concession tickets, usually half price.
Athenians like to eat out and not just on grand occasions. So if you want to avoid the overpriced tourist traps in the centre then just jump on a bus heading out from the centre then get off twenty minutes or so later and look around you.
If you’re feeling really flush, book in at the Grand Resort Lagonissi, 22 miles south of Athens and 45 minutes from the city centre. Situated on its own 72-acre peninsula, this is luxury run wild – with service available from your own in-room butler, tailor, personal trainer, beautician and pianist. Each of its 12 villas comes with their own infinity pools but there’s great swimming to be had in the waters of any one of the peninsula’s myriad beaches. Understandably, this is where internationally renowned popstars, actors and footballers often head. Double room (in central building) €360; single room (in central building) €320; villa from €1,500 to €28,000 (per night) for the four-bedroom royal suite.
40th km Athens-Sounion Highway, Lagonissi, 19010; Tel: 229 102 3911; www.lagonissiresort.gr/
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