The most beautiful old, low-lit bar, which actually makes its own ouzo and liqueurs on the premises. Even if you don't want to have a drink, pop your head in the door and have a look - stunning. And with an outdoor rooftop cinema, The Cine Paris, just over the (pedestrianised) street, perfect for having a few drinks and waiting for the sun to go down before going to see a film.

41 Kydatheneon St, The Plaka, Athens
Tel: 210 323 2110

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This is a pedestrian street lined with lots of bars, along from the Old Mosque in Monasteraki. On a spring bank holiday afternoon all the cafes were packed with Greeks drinking and chatting away - the volume of people talking without any background music is amazing in itself. There were also loads of people selling cheap handbags and sunglasses so you can get the kit to pose like the locals.

Monastiraki

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Arguably the ultimate place for people watching, both in the winter and summer. This is where everybody walks past before settling in one of the numerous bars/clubs in Psiri, or stops for a first drink (traditionally cheap to cater for the students), and forgets what the plan is for the rest of the evening. A major mid-week attraction for Athenians that never go to sleep. Amongst the old favourites, are Discokafeneio and Rebeka.

Miaouli Street, Psiri.

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