- Crete
- (38)
-
Greece
Pitsidia, Crete. A village to open you up and re-affirm what you have always believed life should be like. Chancing upon a Cretan means, at the least, a friendly ‘Cala Mera’ and a wave, sometimes an invitation to come in and drink tea. Bars and Cretans really move the welcoming spirit another notch; if the owner is not around then customers are trusted to simply help themselves and pay their bill later that day or even the next. The most seductive Cretan music just helps to confirm what you have always wanted to believe – that life and people are beautiful.
Google map: bit.ly/xP652a
Pitsidia, Crete. Chance upon an isolated home and at the very least that means a friendly 'Cala Mera' and a wave - sometimes an invitation to come inside and drink tea. Climb the hill that overlooks this very unspoilt village and listen to a chorus of sheep bleating, cattle lowing and instantly be transported to a time two thousand years ago. Bars in Pitsidia really reflect a true Christmas spirit: always friendly and if the owner is not there then customers help themselves and are trusted to pay their bill later in the day ... or even the next. Fresh local fish, grilled halloumi, crisp vegetables and the most seductive Cretan music all make a refreshing change from turkey and Christmas carols.
Pitsidia, Crete
Google map: bit.ly/sZgiJQ
Eleonas is a beautiful hotel made up of cottages straddled on a Cretan hillside and a main taverna/reception/bar at the base of the hill. If you want to get away somewhere quiet and friendly, with amazing food and the possibility of walking in the hills, gorges and forests of upland Crete (or, a short drive away, the beaches, Minoan palaces and towns of the beautiful South Coast), then this is for you.
www.eleonas.gr/
Saridakis Manolis, Zaros Heraklion Crete
P.C. 70002
+30 28940 31238 9
Google map: bit.ly/nrH1Ss
Renting a car is a must for exploring the beautiful rugged western Crete - all doable on day trips from a charming Venetian town of Chania. Our favourite outings were Samaria Gorge, Gramvousa and Elafonisi. Samaria Gorge for a change of scenery and sightings of wild goat Kri Kri; relax to follow after the day hike in the laid back coastal village of Agia Roumeli. Explore the hills above the Balos beach for wonderful pre-sunset views of Gramvousa Peninsula. Drive to Elafonisi via the Agia Sofia cave; enjoy paradise settings of Elafonisi with its warm sands and shallow, blue/green hued waters; then back via the spectacular NW coastal drive. Late summer should be a perfect time to visit - the crowds are gone (not that it’s ever too busy) and the weather is good well into early autumn.
We stayed at Frida for easy access to everything.
www.fridahotel.gr
Kladissos, Chania, Crete
(+30)28210 92729
Google map: bit.ly/osCfdd
The Enneahora - meaning nine villages – is an off-the-beaten-track domain in the lush green mountains of Western Crete. Trawling deep gorges, it’s easily reachable by local bus from the unassuming seaside town of Kastelli Kissamos – an ideal base for exploration of the region. Enjoy cool walks beneath ancient chestnut, plane and walnut trees; criss-crossing mountain streams and rare flora and fauna, including high-flying buzzards. Take inexpensive rooms in friendly Elos, main hamlet of the nine, to enjoy its shady square and unobtrusive tavernas serving freshly roasted dishes and local wines. Be tempted to stay on for the unique annual chestnut festival in October.
www.west-crete.com
For clean, friendly rooms try the Bikakis family in Kissamos, who will also tell you of local walks
www.kissamosbooking.com
+30 2822 0 22105
Google map: bit.ly/mUdHWf
A peninsula linked to the mainland by a causeway, with a lovely taverna, a sunken city, a byzantine mosaic, and lovely small beaches to enjoy.
Take the sharp turning to the east when driving to Elouda, drive along the causeway by the venitian salt flats, over the hump backed bridge, and enjoy.
Google map: bit.ly/kUoBVM
We had a one of our best holiday memories in Bellevue in Agia Pelagia beach. The hotel complex is in the centre of Crete and is in easy reach of many attractions and archaeological sites such as Knossos which is 20 km away. Bellevue is run by a English/Greek family that help you any time you need info. Their son George is a very helpful and polite person and has a shop down in Agia Pelagia. During the first days we didn't have a car and George after serving Bellevue's super breakfast offered us a lift every day down to the village of Agia Pelagia and a couple of times to the lovely beach of Ligaria. Bellevue is a simple but a very good hotel/apartment complex. Our room was very big, simple but tastefully decorated. The view was one of the best we have ever seen or experienced. During our stay we explored the six beaches in and around Bellevue. One day we walked till the next mountain village and visited the monastery of Sebbatiano that was a super experience.
Villa Bellevue Apartments, P.O. BOX 1474, 71110 Heraklion, Greece
+30 2810811102
www.agia-pelagia-bellevue.com
Google map: bit.ly/96BNBB
This was a highlight of my trip – €18 for a four-hour trip to the marvellous island of Spinalonga on board the MV Venus from Agios Nikolaos, including a swimming stop.
Excellent introduction on board ship and then left to wander the evocative island. You must read The Island by Victoria Hislop before entering the lepers tunnel – the book is an account of life on Spinalonga.
Prices for drinks on board was actually cheaper than in Agios shops. A must for a trip to eastern Crete.
Google map: tinyurl.com/2v4qv35
Agios Nikolaos is at the Eastern end of Crete. It would be wrong to say it is not busy or touristy but there is a mixture of real people and tourists. The several excellent local beaches are very cosmopolitan and in August, English is in the significant minority. The response in all tavernas and bars is a warm welcome.
To eat I recommend Pelagos restaurant for high quality, Christofyllis for the Greek experience and the Dolphin taverna on Ammoudi beach for the Shirley valentine experience.
The sea is wonderful.
Google map: tinyurl.com/32j7lvj
This tip is a comment on the story by Aida Edemariam in the travel section on 4 July 2009 about the Agia Fotini Taverna and the couple who run it, Stavros and Vicki Perakis.
My wife, Karen, and I live in Wollongong Australia, about 80km south of Sydney where Vicki grew up and Stavros lived for about 10 years. I worked with Stavros in the Abrasive Blasting game and got to know them and their extended Greek families and friends very well. When they went back to to Crete to take over the family taverna they always said we must come and visit. Well in 2002 we did just that and spent two weeks with them and a week on Santorini.
You always get the cliches and all the Greeks told us before we left "you'll love it, it'll be the best holiday you will have" and we went "yeah, right". But I must admit they were right, it was sensational.
The trip to the taverna was a holiday in itself and it is perched right on the waters edge. Karen and I stayed in the "honeymoon" suite (inside facilities) and my brother stayed next door. From there we ventured out and did all the touristy sites as nowhere is far away on Crete. When we decided to stay in a typical day was; late up, dip in the ocean, Stavros would call us in for a cooked breakfast then read a book, walk on the beach, try a Mythos (local beer), more food, chat to the customers and end up about 1am sipping Ouzo and Raki with any late comers. We even helped them out around the tables when things got busy.
It was and still is the best holiday we've had and we would like to thank Aida for telling it just like it is.
Google map: tinyurl.com/2u9rwux
Agia Pelagia is a small fishing village which doesn't really qualify as a mainstream tourist resort - and that's a good thing. Situated 23 km west of Heraklion, it has a rich history going back to Minoan times when, because of its strategic and sheltered location, it was an important harbour.
Nestled in the curve of a wide bay at the foot of a hill, its picturesque setting was noticed by a few intrepid businessmen who understood the area's potential in the burgeoning tourism industry of Crete. Slowly but surely, hotels and restaurants were built but never too many and so the area has kept its charm. Today, it is a popular destination for families and couples who prefer a quieter getaway.
Near Agia Pelagia is the small hotel&aparts Villa Bellevue built just over the beach of Ligaria.
The hotel is nestled at an idyllic spot in Agia Pelagia.
Villa Bellevue Apartments, +30 2810811102, www.agia-pelagia-bellevue.com
South eastern Crete remains one of the few areas on the island that has not been swamped by a dependence on tourism. The infrastructure is there to provide for tourists' summer needs but agriculture remains the main source of income for locals. The two-hour drive from Heraklion Airport has helped to keep the area largely unspoilt, with many hidden gems of isolated beaches and traditional mountain villages just waiting to be explored. There is a good (daytime) public transport service between Heraklion Airport and Ierapetra with an hourly service on to Makry-Gialos which has the widest selection of accommodation and is a good base for the area.
We stumbled across this lovely restaurant when wandering the back streets in the old Venetian quarter of Chania and ended up eating there almost every night of our stay.
It's located in what was the plunge pool of an old Turkish bath. Ignore the main courses on the (Greek) menu and go for a selection of the mezedes. There's a huge variety with generous portions at only a few euros each. Our favourites were the horta (steamed wild greens served with olive oil and lemon juice), the favakeftedes (split pea croquettes), and the lovely local sausages.
Two people could happily eat their fill and wash it down with a carafe of local wine for under thirty euros.
49, Zambeliou, Old Town, Chania
Tel : +30 282 109 6080
Away from the hubub and mass tourist market, the small town of Plakias lends itself to hiking the mountain paths and wonderful cliff walks during the day and relaxing in the pleasant seaside atmosphere in the evening.
Budget travellers can stay at the Plakias Youth Hostel run by amiable manager Chris, while the more well heeled can rent a small apartment for a few more Euros.
Plakias, Crete
For the youth hostel www.yhplakias.com
bit.ly/ncMjx #lp #traveltuesday
Situated at the mouth of a spectacular gorge and set in a tranquil olive grove. This spotless hostel lends itself to long spring sojourns for the intrepid walker or beach lover alike.
Eight person spacious dorms all with a patio, table and chairs surround a grass covered communal area with ample shade.
The manager is on hand to take care of simple needs like internet access, bottles of local wine and ice cold Mythos beers. Breakfast is a simple and cheap affair but the community spirit is what makes the hostel buzz.
Guests come from all over the world and some stay months or even the whole season to enjoy the local beaches and simple life that Plakias affords.
A world away from the resorts of the north the Plakias youth hostel gives much in return for the thoughtful and social traveller.
Plakias can be reached by bus from most major towns in the north of Crete.
Mirthios 74060, Rethymno, Crete, Greece
Tel. +30 28320 32118
book on reservations.bookhostels.com/psacreative.com/hostel.php?HostelNumber=10176
www.theworldtraveller.net/plakias.html
You have travelled 20 km since the last tourist shop. Way above the sea you round the headland and enter an amphitheatre of sculptured mountainsides as the road swoops down to the sea. A broad bay, three tavernas and a bar, beyond some old cottages, rooms to let and a few fishing boats. Inland a small chapel on a hill, small buildings among fields and olive groves. A huge gorge slices through a mountainside. That is all there is.
Before the end of the tarmac road you are already captured. The pace has slowed, time to slip off your shoes and live the moment of arriving at this jewel of retreats. A gentle swim, a quiet lunch under tamerisk trees, a sleep after.
Zakros will imprint your soul; you find your own rhythms and retreats. My favourites are: a small hidden cove with a flat rock surrounded by a gentle turquoise swell; a small shingle beach shared with a kingfisher or two; the hill top chapel reached along a dusty track then ancient stone steps, where you will find a quiet peace in the courtyard or contemplation inside, among the icons, candlewax and rickety chairs; a stroll up the gorge takes you to a shady fig tree where you can rest in solitude and breathe the aromas of hot sun on vegetation, only the scuffle and bleet of goats as background. You might walk along a thyme-scented path leading along the coast to Pelekita's cave – nobody there but you. Here you look down on the bright wind-patterned Libyan sea and out beyond the edge of Europe. Almost 3 millenia ago Minoans settled here, trading across these seas; they left a fine palace to show for it.
As darkness falls and you take your unhurried evening meal, the full moon could rise from the sea, rose turning to silver. No need for tears on leaving since you will, for certain, return.
Literally anywhere on the south west coast of Crete; a mix of bustling little ferry 'ports' (Sfakia, Ag. Roumeli etc.), bijou mini-beach resorts (Loutro), deserted beaches with nearby basic rooms and authentic tavernas (Licos, Phoenix). Just sit back and relax watching the crazy hordes head off to the Samaria Gorge and guessing which ones will be half dead by the other end having never walked to the supermarket let alone tackled a challenging lengthy hike wearing flip flops!
Start off on the harbour side at Chorio Sfakion (Sfakai) but be sure to buy ferry tickets from the office near the bus stop first.
On April 28th 2009 you will be able to experience the Greek Easter celebrations. A Greek or a Cretan Easter is nothing like our own and involves a lot more than giving chocolate eggs.
Families give and receive red eggs, dyed red to represent the blood of Christ. During the day families and friends get together to have a huge BBQ and usually spit roast a pig or lamb and break Easter bread, cooked for generations by a recipe handed down from mother to daughter.
At night you will see great firework celebrations and bonfires, and the little villages go mad for a night. If you book a nice family hotel or know a Greek family you will of course get dragged along to the celebrations and I can tell you it’s wonderful, I got given a handful of firecrackers and was told just to go mad.
You really have to visit Crete at this time, and after spending the past 4 Easter's in Malia I can heartily recommend seeing this town at its traditional best, this is of course before Malia becomes the hectic and debauched party town it’s known for in the summer months.
A bit more about Greek easter can be found here:
www.explorecrete.com/traditions/greek-easter.html
www.holidays2crete.com/greekeaster.html
Idyllic Elafonisi is the sort of beach that dreams are made of. Soft, white sand; warm, shallow waters; a little islet that can be swum or waded to. Thankfully, it's also very isolated. People do know about it, but as the only ways to get here are by a lengthy drive along windy low-grade roads through the hills, or a relaxing boat ride (far preferable), numbers are limited. You won't have the beach to yourself but neither should it be overrun. The perfect place to relax in the warm Mediterranean sun.
Elafonisi is at the far south-western tip of Crete. There are regular boats from nearby Paleohora.
I booked as a single lady and was made to feel extremely welcome. The rooms were lovely and the walks a nice gentle pace. The yoga in the mornings was fun and even as a complete beginner I did not feel at all left out.
www.pranaholidays.com
www.pranaholidays.com/holidays/Crete/crete.html
Is this your business?Search Been there
