Pitsidia, Crete. Chance upon an isolated home and at the very least that means a friendly 'Cala Mera' and a wave - sometimes an invitation to come inside and drink tea. Climb the hill that overlooks this very unspoilt village and listen to a chorus of sheep bleating, cattle lowing and instantly be transported to a time two thousand years ago. Bars in Pitsidia really reflect a true Christmas spirit: always friendly and if the owner is not there then customers help themselves and are trusted to pay their bill later in the day ... or even the next. Fresh local fish, grilled halloumi, crisp vegetables and the most seductive Cretan music all make a refreshing change from turkey and Christmas carols.

Pitsidia, Crete
Google map: bit.ly/sZgiJQ

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Agios Nikolaos is at the Eastern end of Crete. It would be wrong to say it is not busy or touristy but there is a mixture of real people and tourists. The several excellent local beaches are very cosmopolitan and in August, English is in the significant minority. The response in all tavernas and bars is a warm welcome.
To eat I recommend Pelagos restaurant for high quality, Christofyllis for the Greek experience and the Dolphin taverna on Ammoudi beach for the Shirley valentine experience.
The sea is wonderful.

Google map: tinyurl.com/32j7lvj

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Malia, Crete, gets undeserved bad press. Yes, The Beach Road bars/clubs cater for British kids in July/August, but one can avoid them altogether & have a pleasant vacation here. There is an attractive old village to the north of the main road.

Most of the restaurants mentioned in the Rough Guide & Lonely Planet have been closed for the past few years as they were run by non-Greeks and rents were too high for the short tourist season. There are however, two excellent restaurants remaining, The Elizabeth, which is in the town square of the old village, and off to the left, Kalesma, both offering dishes way above the usual taverna fare.

There are two classic rock bars on the Main Road, The Cavern and Epsilon - The Alcoholic Church, which can be dangerous territory in the afternoons if the owner, Michaelis is working. He doesn’t like the customers to leave sober!

Malia is a good central base from which to see the island. It has a spectacular beach and a Minoan Palace nearby. Driving inland will take one to the breathtaking views from the Lasithi plateau in about 15 minutes.

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