


There is no nightlife in Thirassia. Once the 4.30pm ferry to Santorini has gone, that's it. The island settles down to snooze. There are no bars, no souvenir shops, only two or three restaurants. No beaches. One place to stay (rooms just above the main village, Manolas, on the single track to the south of the island).
But if you want the smell of wild thyme, a stiff breeze blowing off the water, mountain scrambles, deserted hermitages, and the sound of distant mule bells; if you're prepared to bring your own lunch, and get up early for the eight o'clock ferry, Thirassia will give you an unforgettable day's walking under the blue sky of the Cyclades. Time enough in a day to walk the entire length of the island, bag its peak, and still have time to sit and admire the view of Santorini from the other side.
An excellent restaurant that serves huge portions of traditional food. We had the set price lamb vlachiho at EUR for two - including salad, wine, and vegetables - and could just manage to finish it, this after a pretty strenuous day of hiking from the other side of the island. Friendly service, great little place under awnings. Don't go unless you are hungry!
Perissa, Santorini - just off the main road through the town
Google map: tinyurl.com/3ae9shb
Santorini is a beautiful and impressive island known all over the world for its active volcano. Its last eruption took place in 1950 but more than 100 eruptions have taken place during the last 40 centuries. The most disastrous one occurred 3.5 thousand years ago and lead to the burial of a flourished civilization under tonnes of lava. The eruptions followed by lava spreading have lead to the creation of two small islands in the centre of the caldera area of Santorini, named as Palea Kameni (Old Burnt island) and Nea Kameni (New Burnt island). The first one is 2,000 years old consisting of a thin fertile soil level where locals cultivated animal feed, in the past. Nowadays, one can see wild animals like rabbits or goats that try to survive there. The second island, Nea Kameni, is much bigger that Palea Kameni and is composed of lava rocks with a few plants and rabbits as well as a lot of lizards living there.
The two small volcanic islands are surrounded by the Santorini complex which consists of Thira (the half moon shaped island), Thirasia (on the north west side of Thira) and Aspronisi (south Thirasia) which are the earth parts that stayed above sea level after the volcano eruption, 3,500 ago, that created the caldera of Santorini.
The eruptions were always preceded by warnings such as water warming, water subsiding, earthquakes.
The Santorini volcano has been sleeping for the last 60 years while hot springs on the coasts of Palea and Nea Kameni and gas emissions remind people of its being alive. However, scientists have installed an equipment network in order to get notified of any pre-eruption phenomenon so as to keep save both locals’ and visitors’ lives.
Guided tours are organized to the volcano area so everybody can visit it, swim in the medicinal baths of the hot springs and see the rocks or the soil that have been created by the lava.
This amazing free art space in Santorini is housed in two wine cellars, a rake distillery and the large caved space of the old winery, carved into the pumice rock.
For sightseeing on a budget, you couldn't do better - check out some contemporary art and sculpture from Greek and foreign artists.
Then when you've worked up a thirst, head over to the modern winery for a tasting. Specialities include the delicious Vino Santo, a sweet dessert wine, and Tsikoudia, a drink made from grape pomace, the solid remains of the grape after pressing.
It's far cheaper than touring vineyards in Tuscany, and you get a dose of edgy art on the side!
Exo Gonia, 84700 Santorini, Greece
Antonis Argyros
www.artspace-santorini.com/
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
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