So, you’ve sampled all that the Alps can offer and you’re looking for new vistas…well, why not head for Parnassos? Just two hours drive from Athens on the E75 route and you will be in Arachova, which is an enticing little village clinging to the southern slopes of Mount Parnassos. Accommodation in this traditional settlement ranges from the delightful and simple Maria Rooms, to the five-star Santa Marina Spa. The ski area will be unfamiliar to many, having only opened in 1976 (with no further development until the early nineties). While you won’t be tormented by too many perilous black runs, part of its charm comes from the close proximity of major sites of antiquity, such as Delphi (12 Kms), and the Corinthian Gulf, a further 15kms.
www.aroundparnassos.com
Google map: bit.ly/y9iFUI
www.mariarooms.com/
Arachova, Αράχωβα, Arachova 32004, Greece
+30 22670 31803
Google map: bit.ly/yKqNVn
It's not deserted, but with only 300 inhabitants it is pretty sparsely populated, and after a couple of days you will have seen everyone on the island.
Less than a mile from the coast of Turkey, Kastellorizo (officially named Megisti) is Greece's easternmost island, and nicely off the beaten track. For fresh home-cooked eastern Mediterranean food try the Olive Garden, in the island's tiny harbour.
A number of boats plough back and forth between Kastellorizo and Kaş, one of Turkey's prettiest fishing towns.
Six flights a week from Rhodes. Several ferries from Rhodes, including a weekly catamaran.
One hour boat ride from Kaş in Turkey.
Google map: bit.ly/xxbntP
Delphi. Bold illustration of Classical Greece. Place of the Gods.
Delphic hills covered with barely whispering olive trees and the cemetery with its warmly inviting glowing night lights. Alone with Zeus and eagles you can gently jog the 100 yards in Delphi's ancient stadium. Later have a one/one session with the Oracle - she only tells you things you already know: that Delphi is breathtakingly beautiful and that you will return again and again.
Google map: bit.ly/wsc3l7
Pitsidia, Crete. A village to open you up and re-affirm what you have always believed life should be like. Chancing upon a Cretan means, at the least, a friendly ‘Cala Mera’ and a wave, sometimes an invitation to come in and drink tea. Bars and Cretans really move the welcoming spirit another notch; if the owner is not around then customers are trusted to simply help themselves and pay their bill later that day or even the next. The most seductive Cretan music just helps to confirm what you have always wanted to believe – that life and people are beautiful.
Google map: bit.ly/xP652a
Every New Year I set the same resolutions; eat less bad and more good, exercise more, lose a few pounds. And most years my attempts are feeble. In the first months of 2011 however I committed to taking a swimming holiday in the summer. What a fabulous idea; the carrot was a sunshine holiday, the stick was regular training to improve fitness levels. A week of remote island swimming in clear Greek waters (a long one from island to island in the morning and a shorter coastal one in the afternoon), freshly prepared food, wonderfully long, lazy lunches onboard our sailing boat and the soundest sleep in comfy hotel beds left me healthy, fit, happy and relaxed. Resolution kept.
www.swimtrek.com
+44 (0) 1273 739 713
Pitsidia, Crete. Chance upon an isolated home and at the very least that means a friendly 'Cala Mera' and a wave - sometimes an invitation to come inside and drink tea. Climb the hill that overlooks this very unspoilt village and listen to a chorus of sheep bleating, cattle lowing and instantly be transported to a time two thousand years ago. Bars in Pitsidia really reflect a true Christmas spirit: always friendly and if the owner is not there then customers help themselves and are trusted to pay their bill later in the day ... or even the next. Fresh local fish, grilled halloumi, crisp vegetables and the most seductive Cretan music all make a refreshing change from turkey and Christmas carols.
Pitsidia, Crete
Google map: bit.ly/sZgiJQ
Delphi, Greece. Climb by bus to this seductive place of the Gods. Pass hills packed with olive trees and look out on the gulf of Ithaca panning out below from this sudden and shocking height. Drink from the fountain that spouts out ice cold nectar from the Delphic hills and alone with Zeus, gently jog the 100 yards in Delphi's still almost perfect ancient stadium. Later in the day have a one/one session with the Oracle. She only tells me things I already know - that Delphi is beautiful at Christmas and that there are so few tourists here you can have this place to yourself.
Google map: bit.ly/tVZIwh
I'm loathe to give this secret away, but here it goes: From late January to April skiing in Macedonia, Northern Greece is superb. Family operated ski areas, such as Seli, Pigadia 3-5 and Voras, situated high up across from Mt. Olympus, offer fantastic runs and, if you time your trip correctly, fluffy, knee-deep powder that will bring tears of joy to your eyes. Just over an hour's drive from Thessaloniki airport (which has direct connections to Gatwick and Stanstead), these hidden gems can't be beat. Lift tickets range from just EUR12-17 per day. What's more, I don't think there is a word in Greek for lift-line. I have skied the world over, and dare I say it, nothing beats Greek Macedonia for value-for-money.
www.snowreport.gr/
Google map: bit.ly/pbBa15
A beach break on a Greek island was the objective for our Easter holiday. However, on arrival it soon became apparent that a chilling wind from the east would make the original beach plan a very unappealing option. Consequently, we decided to hire a car and venture out to explore the surrounding countryside. Having crossed to the mainland, we were soon heading upwards - and then much to our surprise the road signage included references to the ski resort of Parnassos. Passing world famous archaeological sites en route to the mountain side village of Arichova, we stayed in a fantastic B&B. Early the following morning, it was time to hit the ski stores and pick-up a few essentials (ski jacket and gloves) at bargain basement prices, due to end-of-season offers. The remainder of the day was spent on on the nearly empty slopes of Parnassos, without queues and in glorious sunshine. An absolute gem of a discovery - and one that very few people will have visited, I dare say. We even managed to get onto the beach by the end of the week!
www.parnassos-ski.gr/
Google map: bit.ly/olzC3y
Eleonas is a beautiful hotel made up of cottages straddled on a Cretan hillside and a main taverna/reception/bar at the base of the hill. If you want to get away somewhere quiet and friendly, with amazing food and the possibility of walking in the hills, gorges and forests of upland Crete (or, a short drive away, the beaches, Minoan palaces and towns of the beautiful South Coast), then this is for you.
www.eleonas.gr/
Saridakis Manolis, Zaros Heraklion Crete
P.C. 70002
+30 28940 31238 9
Google map: bit.ly/nrH1Ss
This is a fantastic memoir about a man looking back on his eventful life down and out traveling homeless through Greece, and other parts of Europe, while coming to terms with his present situation, a life threatening battle brought about by his past. Brilliantly written, engaging and informative. Can't recommend this book enough.
I have been inspired by many wonderful travel books, but there is a very special one that I return to time after time. At the tender age of 12 I read My Family and Other Animals by Gerald Durrell, and it made me yearn to travel to Corfu. I could smell the heady scent of the flowers, hear the relentless chatter of the cicadas, and see the fireflies lighting up the pine-scented night. I wanted to walk through shady olive groves, see shiny black beetles as fat as thumbs, and swim alongside sea cucumbers in clear turquoise waters. Durrell’s childhood, his eccentric family, and their strawberry-coloured villa, completely captivated me. Two years later I travelled to Corfu with my parents and it was everything I’d hoped it would be.
Renting a car is a must for exploring the beautiful rugged western Crete - all doable on day trips from a charming Venetian town of Chania. Our favourite outings were Samaria Gorge, Gramvousa and Elafonisi. Samaria Gorge for a change of scenery and sightings of wild goat Kri Kri; relax to follow after the day hike in the laid back coastal village of Agia Roumeli. Explore the hills above the Balos beach for wonderful pre-sunset views of Gramvousa Peninsula. Drive to Elafonisi via the Agia Sofia cave; enjoy paradise settings of Elafonisi with its warm sands and shallow, blue/green hued waters; then back via the spectacular NW coastal drive. Late summer should be a perfect time to visit - the crowds are gone (not that it’s ever too busy) and the weather is good well into early autumn.
We stayed at Frida for easy access to everything.
www.fridahotel.gr
Kladissos, Chania, Crete
(+30)28210 92729
Google map: bit.ly/osCfdd
It is an island in Aegean Sea. I recommended it because of the brightness of the light, the blue colour of the sea, its architecture, and the very good food!
Google map: bit.ly/nXbeky
Kythira is an island off the south of the Pelopennese. Great place to visit, very friendly people and lots to see and do. You do need to hire a car to allow you to see the island as there is no public transport. Variously occupied by different invaders, all of whom have left their mark. Great food, good local wine. Can be quite windy but loads of beautiful scenery to explore. Well worth a few days.
Fly from Athens daily with Olympic (there's also a weekly charter flight from Amsterdam!), ferry from Athens (Lane Lines) or from Kastelli Kissamos on Crete.
www.kythera.gr/en/
Google map: bit.ly/izzugJ
This is an amazing beach hotel only about 30 minutes drive from the centre of Athens. It overlooks a calm bay with views up to the Temple of Poseidon (a short walk away). The service, food and rooms are superb.
www.capesounio.com/
Sounio Road GR-195 00, Sounio, Attica
+30 22920 69700
This is a great little beach bar next to Rosy's Little Village on the northern coast of Agistri about 100 metres east of Skala. There's good snorkelling and swimming, or you can just chill out all day, sunbathe, eat and drink, read books or doze in the sun. Bliss!
www.agistri.com.gr/hook/en-agistri.html
Skliri, Agistri
+30(0)2297091090
We stumbled on this excellent restaurant in Plaka and loved it because it's a real Greek restaurant for locals too, and beautifully set in a quiet little square with a huge plane tree (platanos.) All the food was great, but make sure you sit outside - indoors is a bit grim!
4 Diogenous, Athens
+30 210322-0666
Google map: bit.ly/k5o5Pb
We have sailed to all of the Greek Islands, and my favorite still is Samothraki; hard to get to and no airport, not much in guide books, and that of course makes it less visited and a wonderful paradise. It lies in the North of the Aegean two hours by ferry from Alexandroupolis and the border with Turkey, or best of all by your own boat. The island is a high mountain, 'Fengari', the 'Mountain of the moon' , where Zeus sat and watched the Battle of Troy. It has one ancient site on the northern slopes - home of the 'Winged Victory of Samothrace' (now in the Louvre). Nearby a village of hot springs, Loutra, and further up a series of eight tumbling streams and rocky pools flowing through forests of huge chestnut, plane, fig and mulberry trees, where the islanders grow their vegetables for winter. The northern beaches have fine white stones, but on the southern shore there are sandy beaches. Last time we were there, a few backpackers were camping near the falls and Loutra had grown a hotel, so maybe change is coming. After a stormy passage, the little port with poplar trees filled with nightingales, was an experience I will never forget.
Google map: bit.ly/ms0CBV
Stavroulas Studios is a charming hotel located in Agii Apostoli near Platis Gialos beach and just 2.5km from Mykonos town.
www.stavroulas-mykonos.com
Agii Apostoli (near Platis Gialos), 84600, Mykonos, Cyclades Islands, Greece
+30 22890 23801
Google map: bit.ly/l7eJ9E