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We are just back from two weeks “island hopping” in the Sporades. The price of flights being so high, we bought a two week package including flight, transfer and accommodation on Skiathos for little more than the cost of a flight, but absconded from the package tour accommodation and backpacked for part of the two weeks to Alonissos and Skopolos. Alonissos is an unspoilt island: one road, one bus (no service in school term time), and three taxis!! Village rooms on both Alonissos and Skopelos were easy to find, and we stayed at Maria’s house on Alonissos: situated in a quiet side road (they all are!), 50m back from the port in the only town Patitiri. We had breakfast every morning on our terrace in Maria’s lovely garden under the lemon trees. We paid 30 Euros a night for a spotless en-suite room. There is superb walking and swimming on Alonissos: but to get the best you will need to buy the guide “Alonissos Through the Souls of Your Feet” by Chris Browne available at www.travelleur.com. Although there’s only one main road, car hire is available which will get you to the start of walks and also secluded beaches at 25 Euros a day from Albedo Travel (abbedotravel.com) who also organise sea kayak trips.
Pension Gioula: e-mail pensiongioula@gmail.com +30 24240 65301
South Pelion has everything to offer at all seasons. Walk on ancient stone paths under plane and olive trees with glorious views of the Pagasitikos gulf or the Aegean. Swim at deserted pebbled coves or beaches with swathes of fine sand. Select from a range of reasonably priced places to stay and enjoy food in fish restaurants, small tavernas that offer regional cuisine, or more international eateries such as Casablanca in Horton. Visit traditional hill top villages with quiet, plane tree shaded cobbled squares, little fishing harbours, historical sites, tiny fresoed churches or the market in Argalasti for local produce including home brewed local spirit tsipouro. In addition you can take a trip to nearby Skiathos on board the Africana from Platania for a day or two of partying. You will certainly be glad to return to the peace and beauty of South Pelion.
www.southpelion.com/ www.friendsofthekalderimi.org/
Campsites include Louisa at Platanias (www.camplouisa.gr/en/draseis.html), hotels include Kima and Des Roses in Platanias and accommodation includes Katerina in Pelion and Valtoudi in Milina.
Cheaper flights to Corfu now make organising your own bespoke holiday easy on an island that still has miles of unspoilt coastline. And with rooms and apartments to rent from £300 a week it’s a great way to enjoy the Greek experience on a budget. Just 15 miles south of Corfu airport is the village of Messonghi. A picture hanging in a local taverna shows a large group of the villagers socialising on the beach and is titled “1974 BT – before tourism”. Eating in local tavernas is part of what make this type of holiday special. Great affordable food and an authentic Greek experience. There is a small coast road that follows the contours of the many bays going south in the direction of Boukari, Petriti and Notos. It’s only 10 miles long and with hardly any traffic it is a beautiful walk or bike ride. Bikes can be hired for just five euro a day in Messonghi. With a taverna roughly every mile you can stop to refresh yourself and sample the delicious seafood before wallowing in the clear warm water. Spiros Taverna in Boukari is renowned for the fish it serves. Petriti has a small fishing fleet and is a stop-over for flotilla holidaymakers. Stamatis Taverna right on the beach is straight out of Zorba the Greek and little has changed since the film was made. Ask for the local wine, its wonderful. If you want to sample the real Greece and not just sit around a pool, then this could be the holiday for you.
Accommodation in Messonghi:
www.seaside-apartments.net
Google map: bit.ly/11QZMjc
Spiros Taverna Boukari
www.boukaribeach.gr/restaurant.htm
Stamatis Taverna
www.corfu-kerkyra.eu/html/corfu/ristoranti/stamatis/english.htm
Syros is an undiscovered gem of an island. Off the beaten track for mass tourism, this lovely town has so much to offer. Within easy reach of Athens via ferry, and a faster hydrofoil in the summer, it even has its own airport with a daily flight to Athens taking 30 minutes. The main town of Ermoupolis has an attractive harbour with many tavernas on the waterfront. Wander through the little backstreets, see the huge marble square and town hall, walk up the narrow streets and many steps to Ano Syros. Visit the impressive Venetian style houses in Vaporia, built for sea captains. Several beaches are just a bus ride away or hire a moped for the day. The sandy beach at Kini has beachside tavernas, as does Azolimnos, the nearest beach to Ermoupolis. Even in the winter, the island is a buzzing, lively place to visit, as it is the capital of the Cyclades. Well worth a stop over if you are island hopping, sailing, or for a day trip.
Google map: bit.ly/12SImQt
The highest point in Athens. You can walk to the top using the footpaths but it is fun to catch the funicular railway (Telefrik). It is about a ten minute walk from Kolonaki square through some steep backstreets, but the funicular station is not well signposted. The little trains run every thirty minutes, and more frequently in busy times and costs six euros return. The views from the top are absolutely stunning.
10 minutes walk from Kolonaki square.
Google map: bit.ly/11w8a1O
The city of Nicopolis was built by Octavian (Emperor Augustus) to celebrate his victory over Antony and Cleopatra at the Battle of Actium which took place just off the coast.
Today the ruins are largely free of tourists and beautifully overgrown but curious visitors who follow the paths and agricultural roads around the sprawling archaeological site will discover the remains of a Roman odeion, a nymphaea, an amphitheatre, a stadium, the foundations of a villa, a necropolis, mosaics, and stretches of the original Roman walls.
On a nearby hillside the Monument of Augustus stood on the site of Octavian's war camp and originally showcased the spoils of battle including bronze rams cut from the bows of Antony and Cleopatra's ships.
The Archaeological Museum of Preveza tells the story of the ancient city and displays finds from the site. Visit first and you will have a better feel for the history. The admission ticket covers entry to the museum and the archaeological site.
www.preveza.gr/en/el/nikopoli
Preveza in Epirus, North West Greece is within reach of Parga and Lefkada by car.
Buses from Preveza bus station to Ioannina (or other local services) pass the museum and the archaeological site. Getting back to Preveza is difficult as buses are irregular and it's a good 30 mins walk.
Details of opening times and admission free days: odysseus.culture.gr/h/3/eh3530.jsp?obj_id=2575
Google map: bit.ly/1624kkj
Mystra: ‘The Despotate of Mystra’ as it was known in the 14th Century. The most complete, dramatically sited and atmospheric Byzantine city in Greece. With magnificent views into the valley below it huddles against a steep cliff at the foot of the Taiyetos mountain range in the south eastern Peloponnese. Narrow streets and alleys give access to medieval semi-ruined houses, palaces and churches, some of the latter having brilliant ‘fresco’s. We felt we had entered the Byzantine world.
Whichever route you take to Mystra you will experience great scenery as well as having the opportunity to visit classical sites.
Google map: bit.ly/YVjTaD
After the visits to myriad marble columns, temple remnants, and paved roads, the Kouros of Naxos are a refreshing change. The three Kouros are prostrate statues still lying where they were being chiselled from the local marble. Dating from 6th or 7th Century BC, these male forms are believed to be either the God Dionysus, or perhaps local heroes, destined to grace temples. They lie in the open countryside where skilled hands worked on the marble slabs until fatal flaws were revealed or the stone fractured. The statues were then discarded, unfinished, and irretrievable. These are sites of heroic failure and are touching and impressive reminders of the minor craftsmen behind the great antiquities. The best Kouros are at Apollon (10.3m long) and near the central town of Melanes. All are accessible by foot.
Getting there: local buses from Naxos port to Melanes or to Apollon. Kouros of Flerio, Kouros of Potamia are near Melanes and the largest is near Apollon.
Google map: bit.ly/10gGC28
While we were staying at the Peloponnese sea town of Natplio we went to see the amphitheatre at Epidavros, extraordinarily preserved and set against a stunning backdrop. We saw a performance of the Greek tragedy, Medea by Euripides along with thousands of others. The acoustics and atmosphere were truly memorable.
The town is located in the North Eastern Peloponnese and the best way to get there is by car which is a three hour drive from Athens via Corinth. Designated buses also run from Natplio.
Google map: bit.ly/13aIqOh
An ambling six km walk through the Sirikan Gorge, amid cooling chestnut groves, wild olives and plane trees, brings you to the ruined hilltop acropolis of Polyrinia, ‘rich in lambs’. A powerful city-state built by the Achaens, it dominated western Crete and later flourished under the Romans, who added a subterranean reservoir and aqueduct. It was re-colonized in Byzantine and Venetian times and there is much to see among its ruined fortifications, decorative arches, rock-cut tombs and later Church of the Holy Fathers. Rest in the shaded chapel courtyard and admire the jaw-dropping views of Kissamos Bay and the White Mountains before turning back for the sleepy village of Ano Paleokastra. Call in on Yiorgos’ workshop where he’ll ply you with olives and raki until you buy one of his beautiful olive wood boxes, or just pet his friendly dog, Lula.
www.interkriti.org/crete/hania/polyrinia.html
Google map: bit.ly/108V1xo
With remains of one of the seven cities mentioned in the Iliad, the home of writer Patrick Leigh Fermor and the chapel where Bruce Chatwin's ashes are buried, this is Greece ancient and modern - and for modern comforts stay at Anniska or Liakoto in the village.
www.kardamili-greece.com
www.anniska-liakoto.com
Kardamili 24022
Messinia Greece
(+30) 27210 73600
Google map: bit.ly/1467hCd
An amazing site for everyone to enjoy including families, with its legends and myths of the minotaur, impressive frescoes and murals and space to explore and wander without rush. This is a centre of Minoan civilisation and culture. There is enough information for enthusiasts, a decent shop, nice cafe and unintrusive staff who let you take your time to absorb the atmosphere and wonder of this important historic site. The dolphins and griffins in murals appeal to the younger visitors and there is plenty of shade when a break needed from the sun and heat. Wonderful.
Signposted from Heraklion
www.ancient-greece.org/archaeology/knossos.html
Google map: bit.ly/XTAbBM
This was the most unassuming, beautiful, restful spot one could imagine. An hour from the airport through hilly countryside and quiet villages takes you to this wonderful place in the middle of Crete, among mountains and olive groves with the most amazing views from your bedroom balcony on waking. Eleonas is a treasure, peaceful and with amenities like air con, swimming pool and fantastic Cretan traditional cooking. They love children which was a bonus and helpful with anything you need.Great value too, you can book per night. There is also a lovely lake…walkable, and quaint village with tavernas for a local treat. Pure Simple Bliss.
This was the most unassuming, beautiful, restful spot one could imagine. An hour from the airport through hilly countryside and quiet villages takes you to this wonderful place in the middle of Crete, among mountains and olive groves with the most amazing views from your bedroom balcony on waking. Eleonas is a treasure, peaceful and with amenities like air con, swimming pool and fantastic Cretan traditional cooking. They love children which was a bonus and helpful with anything you need. Great value too, you can book per night. There is also a lovely lake, walkable and quaint village with tavernas for a local treat. Pure simple bliss.
www.eleonas.com/
Gialova Pylos, GR 24001, Greece
+30 2723022696
Google map: bit.ly/VilvIm
It is a lovely peaceful guesthouse, perfect for an idyllic break away from the crowds and is located in Greece, on the beautiful mount of Pelion, in a village called Portaria. Klio, who runs the guesthouse, is the perfect host and had a lot of suggestions for day trips in the surrounding area, which has many interesting sights.
Αmazing landscapes full of forests, breathtaking views over the sea, spectacular beaches and many picturesque villages in the area.
The hotel is surrounded by a nice garden. All the rooms of Klio are very clean and built according to the traditional style of Pelion.
It is uses a stone which is produced only on this mountain.
www.klio-pelionportaria.gr
+30 24280 99222
With so many places to stay on Crete, how do you decide? One of my favourite resorts on the north coast of Crete is Agia Pelagia, a lovely, laid-back seaside village ideal for a relaxing holiday on Crete.
Its main sandy beach is ideal for children, and the clear waters are perfect for snorkelling and scuba diving.
There's also a good choice of cafes, bars and family run tavernas. One of the must eat places is the new bar/restaurant Almyra - it's a slice of Myknonos in Agia Pelagia with great cocktails and delicious food.
Agia Pelagia is within striking distance of bustling Heraklion and the ancient ruins at Knossos, so it's well positioned for some sightseeing.
In terms of hotels and apartments there's a good selection.
Google map: bit.ly/RbqDeO
Tucked away on a leafy square just off 25th August St, this quirky, family-owned restaurant/taverna prepares creative and original dishes which touch all corners of Greece. There’s no doubting that their range of fantastically fresh local fish and seafood, many of which can be served as small plates (mezedes), ranks among the best in Heraklion. Fresh salads, grilled meats, pastas and risottos, not forgetting their signature dish of pork tenderloin cooked with wine and tomatoes and served in a pita roll (my favourite!) are sure to hit the spot.
Agios Titos 18, Heraklion, Crete, Greece
For many years now, my friends were telling me to go to Santorini and that I would fall in love with this island so this year I did. It was absolutely gorgeous. It is one of the most beautiful islands I have ever seen. Fira, Imerovigli and Oia are for the romantic couples but Kamari and Perissa are beach villages and they are great for families. I have stayed in Kamari, in Hotel Matina (got the idea from the review here). It is a great little hotel with very friendly owners and the prices are very reasonable.
www.santorini.gr
Hotel Matina:
www.hotel-matina.com
+30 22860 31491
Google map: bit.ly/R9YKqX
Nafplio is an amazing city, the architecture especially can amaze you. It was occupied through the centuries by Venetians, Ottomans and many more and it is something you can see at the style of the buildings. You can see old Mosques standing next to neoclassical buildings. While walking to the narrow streets, it feels like living to another century! While at Nafplio, we stayed at beautiful Pension Dafni. A nice pension hidden in the streets of the old city. The room was clean and stylish and breakfast was delicious and fresh. The staff were helpful and made us feel like we were at home. I would totally recommend Nafplio as a stop and Pension Dafni the place to stay.
www.pensiondafni.gr/
Fotomara 10, Nauplio 211 00, Greece
+30 2752 029856
Google map: bit.ly/QzoFcK
I am actually writing in response to the article about Greece in TRAVEL, 23.6.12: I have just returned from SW and central southern Crete - Paleochora area and Sphakia (Chora Sphakion/ Frankocastello). This part of Crete is mainly wild, spectacular mountains, empty, spotless beaches with deep clear sea, incredible gorges, tiny roads ending in villages and trails off up to the peaks, very pretty towns. There is little sign of economic catastrophe here. I was amazed to see some German tourists .. either unaware of the 'dialogue' between the two nations'media and politicians, or arrogantly sure the Greeks would welcome them - which they were doing. There is masses of accommodation easily obtained on site - or in advance simply by googling accommodation in the areas/ places mentioned. Travelers should be aware though that 1) Greece has always been a cash economy, even more so now: we had to pay cash for car hire, accommodation, food, petrol. But everything is cheap (apart from car hire). A beautiful room + fridge/ shower/ balcony over the sea/ cooking area easily obtainable for 40 euros or less - so much cheaper than the £40 mentioned in the article. But medical services are stretched: there is an excellent, cheap, private clinic in Paleochora - also Chania (cash only!). But in Chora Sphakion there is only the local public medical centre. Wonderfully helpful, free, but struggling to cope with demand from locals and sometimes there are no doctors there - I know about this as my wife had an accident - do not fall down holes in Crete at the moment! The drive from Chania to Chora Sphakion over the White Mountains, passing through beautiful, prosperous little towns such as Vrysses, follows the arduous, spectacular track that allied soldiers walked when retreating from the battle round Chania in 1941, to the tiny, attractive port of Chora Sphakion from where they were evacuated to Egypt.
Recommended: Haris studios, Paleochora; Paradiso Apartments, Frankokastello - huge amount of accomodation available in both places. You can get to both regions from Chania airport by local bus or taxi but car hire makes you able to really explore - easily obtainable at Chania airport, or in Chania. We used autoclub Crete - cheaper than the rest - but cash only!
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