Separated by the snaking Danube River, the old towns of Buda and Pest are connected by impressively sweeping bridges to create Hungary's bustling and distinctive capital.

Dirty and run down in parts, incredibly chic and modern in places, Budapest has an unshakeable charm. Visibly diverse, this old city has blossomed since the parting of the iron curtain, yet remains a mystery to many travellers.

Famous landmarks are few and far between, the language is impenetrable at best, the notion of customer service lost on the locals ... but it has something magical about it. Maybe it's the natural spring water that flows under the city at 37 degrees, cultivated into numerous steam baths across the city that seems to instill a satisfied air into its people.

Architectural highlights include the castle on the hill and the chain bridge. Budapest also boasts the second oldest underground network in the world, after London. Although the nefarious ticket inspectors and unreliable, shabby trains do their best to spoil the experience.

A visit to Heroes' Square gives a reasonable portrayal of Hungarian history - essentially a series of battles and Hungarian capitulation, while the Szechenyi Baths offer a slightly voyeuristic way of viewing the locals ... cast your clothes aside and be prepared for all shapes and sizes, viewed from all angles. An experience in itself.