If you're bathing in Budapest, it doesn't get any better than the beautiful bath house at Szechenyi Furdo. Exquisite baroque architecture, wonderful selection of hot and cold pools, steam rooms and a well stocked cafe for those who fancy a beer and a game of chess.

Worth a visit anytime of the year. Were it not for corpulent 50-something Hungarians wearing nothing but Speedos, this could possibly be my favourite place in the whole world.

A five minute walk from Szechenyi Furdo on the Budapest underground

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The most amazing neo-baroque baths, built in 1913. Like entering Monte Carlo casino but instead of roulette tables you get to bob about in steamy 34-36C bubbling thermal waters surrounded by amazing architecture while it snows (if you’re especially lucky.) We recommend racing from one end of the pool to the other just to feel that chill if it gets too steamy. An absolute must for a winter outdoor sensation. Oh, and just to finish the experience off perfectly, they give you a refund if you don’t stay the full time allowed.

Állakerti körút 11; nearest metro: M1 Széchenyi fürdő

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Magical experience of swimming in the three naturally heated outdoor pools, with snow on the ground an air temperature of –5C and swirling steam masking the people standing next to you. The jacuzzi/whirlpool provided an invigorating contrast, it was so good we went twice.

Állakerti körút 11; nearest metro: M1 Széchenyi fürdő

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Beautiful spa bath in the open air.

Get a day ticket, and hang on to all pieces of paper you are given - if you leave after a couple of hours, they will refund some of the entrance fee. Ladies and gents' changing rooms are separate, one at each end of the entrance hall. You go downstairs and through a turnstile (not necessarily in that order). I can only speak for the ladies' but assume both are the same from here: an attendant will meet you and find you an empty locker. When you are changed, you put your stuff in the locker and call the attendant, who will lock it and give you a wristband. You have to remember the locker number.

Once you come out of the changing rooms into the courtyard, you will be reunited with your bathing companion - Szechenyi is not segregated, which is why I like it. You take your towel and your book and your glasses and whatever else out with you and leave them on a bench. If it looks like rain, make sure you have a plastic bag.

The two pools at each end of the courtyard are the best; the one on the left as you come out of the changing rooms is slightly cooler, so go in this one first, or it will feel really cold. The one on the right is warmer and old men play chess in it. You can also go inside through one of the creepy looking doorways in the walls, and there are more medicinal baths, steam rooms, and great big tubs of ice. I have no idea what those are for. Do explore; no-one will challenge you. Do be brave enough to go to the baths, it's quite an experience. You can get drinks and snacks inside, too.

To get there, you take the yellow subway (also known as foldalatti, which means underground - it's the oldest line in europe, or something) to the Szechenyi Furdo stop (furdo means bath). Come out of the metro and walk towards the yellow building. The entrance hall for the baths is round the side, not the first one you come to out of the metro (that's the door for the medicinal baths).

Or you can walk there - all the way along Andrassy Ut, across Heroes Square, and through the park.
www.spa.hu/angol/szechenyispa_en.html

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They are the oldest Turkish baths in Budapest and have a real faded beauty. The main thermal pool still has a domed roof with small circles of blue glass in it. I had the most relaxing feeling in my life floating in the pool looking up at it when for 10 minutes I was the only person in there. It feels authentic rather than touristy and you will see plenty of Budapest pensioners using a prescription from their doctor to get in. It's the perfect antidote to a heavy day sightseeing.

84 Fo Utca, Budapest 1027

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A must for any Budapest visitor is a trip to the Gellert baths. Heated by geothermal energy, the baths offer an interactive adventure into the post-imperial era, whilst dressed in nothing more than a loin cloth.

The entry price is the only thing you will find in English, but it's no problem and ends up adding to the fun.

Don't be put off by the 20+ stone masseuses, stay your nerves and be sure to spend an hour there.

Southern Budapest
www.budapesthotels.com/hotels/gellertspa.asp

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Rudas is a 16th-century Turkish bath It's finally turned co-ed on certain days after 500 years of being men only. Mixed days include Sunday. An amazing experience can be had there - go early in the morning before the crowds and chill under the cupola in one of the five hot pools and watch the shafts of light coming through the coloured glass octagons in the ceiling, wrapped in clouds of steam. It's the most relaxing place you'll find in a capital city anywhere in Europe. You might even spot the probable future Hungarian prime minister and his cronies there, if you're unlucky.

Döbrentei tér 9; situated on the Buda side of Elizabeth Bridge. The number 7 bus stops there, and all the taxi drivers and locals know it

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The Szechényi fürdő (fürdő translates as “baths”) renovation was completed about a year ago, it is excellent, always gets good reviews and I would always recommend it, especially for families. There are quite a few indoor pools with varying temperatures, plus a couple of steam baths and two large saunas. They have a very nice bucket shower next to the sauna, you pull a chain and cold water is dumped on your head, very refreshing.

Outside are two thermal pools and a swimming pool (swimming cap required). One of the thermal pools is great for kids - there’s a walled off circular section which uses pumps to get a current running. It’s like flowing downstream on a fast river, but you go round in a circle. Kids (and me) love it. Everything is mixed sex, so swimming suits are required.

The Rudás fürdő has been done up recently, it's the old Turkish baths on the Buda side of the Erzsébet híd (Elizabeth Bridge). I haven't been yet, but some people say it's the best in Budapest now.

Gellért is overrated. The swimming pool looks nice from the gallery, but is cold and you have to swim around the pool clockwise, very dull. Thermal pools are segregated, so you can go naked, or borrow a loincloth or wear a swimming suit. Quite nice, but not really suitable for a couple on their own.

Gellert: Kelenhegyi út 4
Szechényi: Állakerti körút 11; nearest metro: M1 Széchenyi fürdő
Rudás: Döbrentei tér 9, Tram 18,19, Bus 7 to Döbrentei tér

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