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Hungary
Located next to the super-cool DiVino wine bar on Pest's trendy Szent Istvan ter (square), this cooling ice cream parlour serves up unusual and delicious ice creams.
The name 'Rosa' is not for nothing: the scoops for the cornets are artfully fashioned to resemble a blooming rose!
It might seem a bit kitsch, but actually it is beautifully done and the ice cream flavours are imaginative with such gorgeous creations as poppyseed (a Hungarian dessert favourite), lemon and basil, an authentic banana (usually a tricky ice to get right), and rich, dark chocolate.
1052 Budapest, Szent Istvan ter 3
+36 70 930 227
Google map: bit.ly/qiXR6j
Liszt Ferenc tér (or Franz Liszt Square) is party central in Budapest. It is a tree-lined pedestrianised area in the heart of Pest, located in the VI district by Oktogon.
During the warmer spring and summer months, the square is packed with beautiful people and tourists sitting in the bars, cafes and restaurants and filling the terrace areas. You can do this in winter too, as all the cafes have huge heaters. Every kind of cuisine, cocktail and coffee is served here from pizza at Pompeii to retro Magyar dishes at Menza to French style at Cafe Vian to Cuban at Buena Vista cafe. There's also an Incognito jazz cafe, Karma restaurant for good vibes and a late night drinking den at Mediterran.
Liszt Ferenc tér
VI. Budapest
Metro No 1 (little yellow underground - Kisfoldalatti) to Oktogon, tram 4 & 6 to Kiraly utca or Oktogon.
Google map: bit.ly/hRTKZE
Balettcipő means 'ballet shoe' and this place will set your toes a-tingling. Enjoy great salads and cakes on a sunny terrace on the recently pedestrianised part of Hajós utca.
Hajós utca 14, 1065 Budapest
+36(0)6 1 2693114
www.balettcipo.hu
M1 Little (yellow) underground - Kisfoldalatti to Opera
Classic central European cafe dating back to 1887 but with very much a contemporary vibe. Ideally placed near the Grand Central Market but off the tourist trap that is Vaci Utca. Lunch is a particularly good deal - £4.50 for soup and a main course plus a litre of fine Hungarian beer. There's nowhere better for kicking back as the lights go down and people watching through the vast plate glass windows. Five star
www.centralkavehaz.hu
Károlyi Mihály u. 9, 1053 Budapest
+36 1 266 2110
Google map: bit.ly/eEKCtl
Beautifully looking classic style cafe, which serves suitably fine food all day. Wonderful large chandeliers, tall ceiling and marble bar made it feel like a real throwback. We were treated to the solemn sounds of gypsy music and couldn't resist a naughty cigarette - each of the three times we visited in three days. Great to pop into for breakfast, or gorgeous when lit up in the evening.
1053 Budapest, Károlyi Mihály Street 9
www.centralkavehaz.hu/kezdolap
+36 1 266 2110
Google map: bit.ly/a8GUiS
The new Alexandra bookstore on Andrássy opened in November 2009. The building is quite striking from the outside, however, when you walk in and take the escalator to the first floor, a magnificent frescoed ceiling (complete with huge chandeliers) is revealed as part of the in-store cafe. The place is stunning with so much to gaze at and lots of seating. Coffee was pretty good and reasonably priced. Go and take a look - it's not in the guidebooks yet, but it will be.
Andrássy út 39. Close to Oktagon.
The Dunapark restaurant was restored a couple of years ago and has a fabulous Art Deco interior with swirling, curling lines of the gallery resembling something like an ocean-going liner.
The cafe downstairs serves a mouth watering selection of cakes and pastries and there is a leafy terrace in summer which stretches out onto Szent Istvan Park and the Danube in the distance.
Once a favourite of the bourgeoisie and urban gentry, this place is now a hip hangout, but still with a healthy proportion of old ladies in hats gorging on cake!
Dunapark kávéház
Pozsonyi ut 38
1137 Budapest
Hungary
Tel: +36 1 786 1009
www.dunaparkkavehaz.hu
Restaurant open: Mon-Fri 11.30-24.00, Sat 10.00-24.00, Sun 10.00-22.00
Patisserie open: Mon-Fri 08.00-24.00, Sat 10.00-24.00, Sun 10.00-22.00
Wonderfully ornate cafe which captures the opulence and splendour of early 20th century Budapest.
Now part of a five-star hotel and not cheap but certainly worth a visit.
VII Erzsebet korut 9 -11
Metro M2 Blaha Lujza ter
tinyurl.com/pfdlmt
Auguszt Confectionary is a charming little cafe in the downtown of Budapest. They are friendly and polite, it is as if you stepped back in time. Not to mention their excellent sweets, cakes and coffee!
Downtown Budapest, between Ferenciek tere and Astoria metro station.
Kossuth Lajos street 14.-16.
www.augusztcukraszda.hu
A tiny cosy traditional patisserie and coffee shop on Buda hill in the castle close to the exuberant neo-gothic Mathias church. After a walk round the Royal Palace or the cobbled streets and quirky aristocrats' houses, indulge in a cherry brandy chocolate and cream coffee, with raspberry torte, and drift back a century or two. Especially nice in winter, and more chance of getting a table.
Szentharomsag Uta, opposite St Mathius church.
www.ruszwurm.hu/
It's a tiny, but very sweet cafe!
Coffee and cakes are excellent, but above all the service is great!
Coffee specialties from freshly roasted beans and tea for enjoying on the spot and for takeaway.
Fancy cakes & sandwiches.
1014 Budapest, Táncsics Mihály utca 12.
Open from 10:00 a.m. to 18:00 p.m.
Scottish pub, with charming Scottish landlord and Hungarian wife who speaks excellent, Scottish-accented English. Good beer (Belhaven), satellite TV for the sports fans, and excellent food. The steak Tartare is one of the best.
Ker. Moazsar u 9
06 1311 7611
Off the north end of Ferenc Liszt ter.
Became my "cantine" as the French say, a regular, easy place to eat. Very friendly, delicious food - Hungarian and also pizza/pasta, and very reasonable. Open all day, every day 10 - midnight.
Kiraly ut 59b
www.magdalenamerlo.hu
tel 36 1 322 3278
Just off Erszebet near the "Pizza H(ugh)t" on the corner. Opposite side entrance of Ferenc Liszt Academy
trolley 70,78, tram 4,6
Asian fusion restaurant, attracts the in crowd, and a little more expensive than the average local. The food is very good indeed, and is welcome if you want a lighter meal than the usual rib-sticking Hungarian fare. On Andrassy, in the centre of things. Service a little lax, but all in all a very good experience. Booking advisable.
Andrassy ut 8
tel: 302 2570
near the Opera House
Italian pizza/pasta of very high standard and very low price. Busy, friendly. Red checked table cloths, a shot of Limoncello with the bill. Pizzas outstanding, as are the pastas. I went several times, but didn't try their other dishes. Popular place.
Open daily 12 - 12.
Lazar u 1 1065 Budapest
tel: 312 - 0080
Just around the corner from the sports bar "Box Utca", on Bajcsy-Zsilinsky behind the Basilica.
The name is - fortunately - nothing to do with János Kádár, Hungary's last Communist leader, the surname Kádár is quite common (and means 'cooper'). Kádár Étkezde (bistro) is a fabulous little lunch venue in the heart of the historic Jewish district in central Pest. It's packed with locals enjoying the non-kosher Jewish home cooking; great matzo ball soup, crisp duck leg with spicy red cabbage or boiled beef with a range of fruit sauces (gooseberry, sour cherry, horseradish) served on a ceramic all-in-one airplane style plates. Uncle Tibi personally greets regulars from the neighbourhood as they pile in and tots up the bill at the end. The walls of the crowded room are crammed with photos (many autographed) of Hungarian actors and athletes as well as other fans of the bistro including Marcello Mastroiani. Sip málna szörp (raspberry cordial) at this non-alcoholic eaterie or help yourself from the old-fashioned soda water bottles on every table. The waitresses are the kindest and most efficient in Budapest, the menu is only in Hungarian, and you'll have to share a table but that's part of the atmosphere. The last time I ate there, the elderly lady sipping soup at my table had numbers tattooed on her arm. This was a sudden, brutal, unexpected reminder of Hungary's shocking history.
Kádár Étkezde
Klauzál tér 9
District VII
Budapest
Open Tues-Sat 11.30-15.30
Tel: (+36 1) 321 3622
To get there: Take tram 4 & 6 to Király utca stop.
Prices: Soup 300 forints, main dishes 500-800 forints, cash only, no CC.
This branch of the Four Seasons opened about a year ago in the recently renovated Gresham Palace. The renovation is spectacular, and its one of the most impressive buildings in Budapest both inside and out. You don’t have to be staying there to enjoy the wonderful bar, café and restaurant. It is a great place to have a nice cup of tea and sit down after exploring the castle district and Chain Bridge.
Roosevelt Tér 5-6
www.fourseasons.com/budapest/index.html
Excellent restaurant with traditional Hungarian dishes, decent prices, good service, and a great wine list. It's in the courtyard of the restored Károly Mansion, and has nice outdoor seating. When I was there, there was a play being performed next door, so we got free dinner theatre as a bonus. It has vegetarian choices as well.
V. Károlyi Mihályi utca;
www.karolyietterem.hu/
The cafe in the Goethe Institute is the perfect place to relax and chat and even catch up on your email. It tends to be peaceful during the day and the mugs of hot chocolate are enormous and delicious.
Tiny 19th century cake shop cafe with amazing choice of cakes. We will reurn to try another masterpiece.
Szentharomsag utca 7 in Castle area.
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