This is one of those places where the guests stay longer than they expected, and end up working there. The writing all over the walls and the squat-like attic give it a definite acid house feel, but don't worry, everyone’s friendly, and the hippy vibe is pretty infectious.

The 24-hour bar (essentially a fridge) and adjoining lounge are great to meet people and play some free pool. It’s a party place as well, so expect to have some messy evenings. A little bit of a mission to find, but definitely worth it. AND make sure you do a shot of Unicum at the bar. Medicinal apparently. Can't really remember.

www.hostelz.com/hostel/7006-Station-Guesthouse-Hostel

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Decent hostel, good sized rooms, good facilities. Great welcome, great service. They give you a shot of schanpps when you arrive, and when we saw a brochure for caving did all the organising for us.

Right next to St Stephen's Basilica

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Check costs before you order. Prices will vary greatly and seem to depend on what the staff think you are willing to pay. Upon questioning the bill they often justify the steep cost because you're from London and will therefore accept London prices. The guy beside you will pay the equivalent of £0.80 for a beer and you will get a bill of £2.90 for the same thing.

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These are listed on the US Embassy's website as bars/clubs where tourists are often presented with ridiculously expensive bills (100 dollars for a ½ litre of beer), and physically intimidated if they refuse to pay:
- Városközpont (accessible by outside elevator) Budapest V district, Váci utca 16
- La Dolce Vita Budapest V district, Október 6. utca 8
- Nirvana Night Club Budapest V district, Szent István krt.13
- Ti'Amo Bar Budapest IX district, Ferenc körút 19-21
- Diamond Club Budapest II district, Bimbó út 3
- Pigalle Night Club Budapest VIII district, Kiss József utca 1-3

budapest.usembassy.gov/tourist_advisory.html

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In spring and summer, various buildings throughout the city due for either demolition or renovation are turned into makeshift outside bars. You generally don’t know where they will be, but keep a look out in the local press and you should find one or two. Szimpla mozi kert on Kazinczy utca 14 is open all year, or check out the web site of this kert bar for its opening date: www.tuzraktar.hu/eng.html

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For those of you who venture to the edge of the the Pest inner circle, you'll find a reward in the form of Stex, a cafe/bar/pub/restaurant.

Open from 8am till 6am you can get a good breakfast there, there's a cheap daily lunch menu and it's good for a coffee any time of the day.

But it's in the evening that Stex really comes into its own. There's good, cheap beer and a friendly, bustling atmosphere. A full menu of hearty Hungarian-esque food makes this ideal for a pub-type supper. The wooden plate of mixed grill, to be shared between two, is a rewarding challenge. Good wine menu too (with some Hungarian wines: definitely worth trying), if you fancy splashing out a bit. And, if you're feeling really classy, there's a cigar menu.

A curious thing about Stex is that it's very big, but still intimate. It's almost always getting along towards full, but you can still always find a table.

You can watch the football - but the place is big enough that you don't have to. You can play snooker or darts, and there’s a casino attached

And, by the way, remember to pronounce it “Shtecks”.

Corner of József krt and Baross utca (Tram 4-6, Baross utca stop)

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Cool courtyard bar that stays open all winter thanks to a pre-fab roof and loads of garden heaters. Szimpla is full of people at the weekend although it never gets too busy and it manages to retain a relaxed but lively atmosphere. The decor is sparse but fun. Old cinema chairs and dusty sofas, along with the crumbling stonework lend it a decadent air. Cheapish booze but don't try the wine! In summer check out Szimpla kis kért (Szimpla's little brother) and loads of other Pest courtyards.

Kazinczy ut 14; nearest metro station is Astoria

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Friendly hostel located near the centre of the city in an enchanting old building. If you are travelling in a group, ring ahead and book the 'penthouse' - it sleeps eight and has its own kitchen/dining area and bathroom with shower. And if you stay for more than five days you get a Yellow Submarine t-shirt.

56 Terez Korut - near Nuygati train station

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What have come to be known as the “kerts” are a series of ad hoc pubs assembled in the courtyards of once grand, now ramshackle, buildings. There is a very boho vibe to them and they have become a Budapest alternative institution since emerging from the rubble a couple of years ago.

To find the kerts, go to any of above mentioned bars and ask where the nearest kert is

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It's a late-night bar. Everyone goes there when other places close, though it's lively earlier in the night too. You can dance, there's good live music (piano, chansons). It rocked.

Nagymezõ utca 25

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A hostel on the south-western edge of town. A laid-back idyll, run by a young couple who are always happy to see new guests. They will find a bed for you somewhere, whether it be a double room with TV and Fridge (a luxury in the summer), or merely a hammock tied between two trees in their garde. Everybody receives the highest order of hospitality. Check it out!

They advertise at the train stations and in phone boxes. Pick up a leaftlet and get on the bus.

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