This little Hungarian oddity comes highly recommended, so too does having someone with you to cling on to if you choose to take the tour alone, as opposed to with a guided group.

The 1,200 metre labyrinth of caves and tunnels open to the public was once the haunt of prehistoric man, and more recently served as an air raid shelter during the Second World War. What is on offer to visitors today is a nerve-testing series of delights, with the highlights including gargoyles projectile vomiting blood and a section called the 'Labyrinth of Courage' - a terrifying, pitch-black, 'hold on to a rope and edge forward a centimetre at a time' sort of experience.

Bear in mind that to a person of a nervous disposition the labyrinth might be considered a less than pleasurable excursion, but personally I found it to be one of the most original and exciting hours that I spent in Budapest.

Budapest Castle District,
Úri utca 9.
URL: www.labirintus.com
Telephone: +361/212 0207
Nearest station: Moszkva tér on the M2 line.

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The most amazing collection of retro family entertainment. The Zoo took several hours to get round. Next door is the - pleasantly affordable - indoor circus (very 'foreign' feeling, although the ticket sellers do speak some English. Beware that they do include animals, some borrowed from the zoo!).

Next to this is a great amusement park (Vidám Park) with an old-fashioned feel which could well have have kept us amused for a full day, if we'd had the time. The wooden rollercoaster is great, even for our four year old. Do bear in mind that Hungarians have a more relaxed approach to health and safety that in the UK!

Metro line no 1 (yellow line) to Szechenyi furdo.

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A real off the wall tourist attraction! A tongue in cheek art/spiritual/cultural exhibition located in an intriguing labyrinth of tunnels under castle hill. Strange music, odd statues, faux cave paintings and a real maze will keep you guessing what's round the next bend. Thoroughly enjoyable. We visited in winter when it provided much-needed relief from the subzero chill on the Hill. Drop your sulky kids off there whilst you take in the sights above ground..!

A back street on castle hill, Uri Utca 9.

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If you're bathing in Budapest, it doesn't get any better than the beautiful bath house at Szechenyi Furdo. Exquisite baroque architecture, wonderful selection of hot and cold pools, steam rooms and a well stocked cafe for those who fancy a beer and a game of chess.

Worth a visit anytime of the year. Were it not for corpulent 50-something Hungarians wearing nothing but Speedos, this could possibly be my favourite place in the whole world.

A five minute walk from Szechenyi Furdo on the Budapest underground

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St Margaret's Island is situated in between Buda and Pest. It is a haven for peace and tranquility due to its ban on transport. The leafy parks and extensive outdoor pools (some very shallow, making it perfect for young children), make it an oasis in a bustling city.

Cross the bridge near the Houses of Parliament

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A perfect day out for families is the Gellert Hotel and Spa, open to the public and very inexpensive. As well as the option of massages and beauty treatments, the indoor swimming pool is set in palatial surroundings, whilst the spa pool is a perfect temperature for old and young alike. Older children will love the outdoor pool with its wave machine, whilst the gardens and sun lounger area are perfect for parents to relax in.

From the Market Hall (in Pest), cross the bridge into Buda

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Located in the Huvösvölgy area, among the rolling western hills of Buda, Náncsi Néni vendéglője (Auntie Náncsi) has a reputation as being one of the most down-to-earth restaurants in Budapest. Yet it is an extremely popular restaurant with a formidable reputation among Budapest’s traditional food aficionados. It is reputed to be a favourite of Tony Curtis when he is in town and the place where politicians bring their foreign guests.

Somewhat out of the way it’s worth the effort getting there and is a wonderful place to eat when the courtyard garden is open for the long hot evenings of a Budapest summer and with food that’s ‘a hogy nagy mama főzött’ (just like granny cooked).

Ördögárok Ut 80, Budapest, H-1029
Open daily noon till late
Telephone: 398-7127
E-mail: asztalfoglalas@nancsineni.hu
www.nancsineni.hu/eng/index2.html
Unless you are familiar with Budapest access is easiest by taxi from Moskva tér or the No 157 bus from Hűvösvölgyi végállomás

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Take the old underground (yellow line) to Hosok tere, where you will find a crescent of statues of historic figures of Hungary. Behind the square where you arrive is a park, which is a favourite for many, particularly families with small children (a zoo and amusement park are on your left). In the winter, you can go there for skating. Petofi csarnok (hall) offers cultural events and a flea market on some weekends.

Tube: No 1 to Hosok tere or Szechenyi furdo; trolleys: various

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