A tiny cosy traditional patisserie and coffee shop on Buda hill in the castle close to the exuberant neo-gothic Mathias church. After a walk round the Royal Palace or the cobbled streets and quirky aristocrats' houses, indulge in a cherry brandy chocolate and cream coffee, with raspberry torte, and drift back a century or two. Especially nice in winter, and more chance of getting a table.

Szentharomsag Uta, opposite St Mathius church.
www.frommers.com/destinations/budapest/D42331.html

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An independent cultural and nightlife website, with its ear to the ground.

www.thehub.hu

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He really is a character, he wants to show you 'special places round the back that nobody knows', he is persistent, he will run after you if you try to leave him, he will call you stupid and insult your country but I think he's harmless and I could watch his attempts to ensnare hapless tourists all day long.

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